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31
Electronics / Re: Cold in house, honeywell V8043F1036 zone valve may have quit working
« on: October 17, 2015, 12:46:48 PM »
Is the end switch visible in the two pictures I took? Yes the valve is opening. When the pump was pumping for a different zone, the pipe after the problematic valve was getting warm.
32
Electronics / Cold in house, honeywell V8043F1036 zone valve may have quit working
« on: October 17, 2015, 08:15:20 AM »
Woke up this morning to it 55 degrees in the house, its not cold enough during the day to be running the OWB so am using the fuel oil boiler. Home has 3 thermostats with 3 zone valves and only one circulating pump which turns on when any one of the 3 zones call for heat. 2 of the 3 stats are turned off and the one thats on controls the bedroom and office. At first thought that a thermostat went bad, but if the bedroom thermostat is off, turn it on and quickly run into the boil room, I can see the zone valve opening. From what I gather is that the opened zone valve isn't sending power to the aquastat relay on the front of the oil boiler which controls the turning on of the burner and circ. pump. If the living room thermostat is turned its zone valve opens, turns on the pump and oil burner with no issues. Seems like it would be something in the zone valve correct? The valve is probably from the early 1990s, mine and this one have the same number on them: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-V8043F1036-3-4-Sweat-Zone-Valve-Connection-Terminal-Block-6362000-p Also attached are pictures of the one that isn't working.
33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Possible to damage boiler from throwing wood into firebox?
« on: March 02, 2015, 08:29:43 PM »
When I put wood in the boiler an occasional piece will slide on the other logs and hit the back of the boiler, and other times they will stop dead and I'll have to use my hand, foot, or ash rake to push the log in. Has anyone ever seen any damage to a boiler thats had wood thrown in it? I'm assuming it would take many years of doing this before it was a issue. It probably helps that there is water behind the steel to help absorb the blow.
34
Heatmor / Re: furnace keeps going into safety mode
« on: February 22, 2015, 09:46:12 PM »
When the fire went out, what was the water temp when you discovered no fire, and were the fans running?
I've also had the flapper door cresote shut, so even though the fan was on it wasn't able to blow on the fire, and the fire went out.
From what I under stand, if the high limit is reached and its still in the time frame of being too hot and you flip the light switch down the outdoor light won't come on, also, the fan won't come on like it normally does when the outer door is opened. Does that seem to coincide with whats happening to yours?
I've also had the flapper door cresote shut, so even though the fan was on it wasn't able to blow on the fire, and the fire went out.
From what I under stand, if the high limit is reached and its still in the time frame of being too hot and you flip the light switch down the outdoor light won't come on, also, the fan won't come on like it normally does when the outer door is opened. Does that seem to coincide with whats happening to yours?
35
Heatmor / Re: furnace keeps going into safety mode
« on: February 22, 2015, 07:55:49 AM »
Shouldn't the stove reset its self when the temps come back down? If the high limit aquastat was tripped at 200, then after a hour or however much time passed water temp comes back down to 175, shouldn't the fan come back on and keep fire going? Was there still wood left in the firebox when the fire went out or had it all burned up? I had a fire almost go out on the coldest night of the year this winter and I believe it was from burning a little too wet of wood, and I hadn't taken out ashes in awhile. water temp had gotten down to 100 or 120.
Do you have more than one gauge to verify the temp gauge on the front of the boiler is correct? Maybe it is actually overheating and the gauge is wrong.
My stove is the same, if aquastat is set at 180 the temp gauge front of stove never shows 180, its usually 170 when the fan turns off.
The only time mine has tripped the 200 degree high limit safety is when the flapper door stuck open in warm weather, I think the 400 has two fans, make sure power is off to the fans, take them out and work the flapper open and closed by hand and see if there is any binding. Mine was being held open by cresote, it was tough to diagnose the problem because by the time i worked the fan out of the mounting hole it would free up the flapper from being bumped around.
Why were the two aquastats replaced in november? Similar issue?
Does the bladder have water in it, bladder valve is open, ashes are empty?
Do you have more than one gauge to verify the temp gauge on the front of the boiler is correct? Maybe it is actually overheating and the gauge is wrong.
My stove is the same, if aquastat is set at 180 the temp gauge front of stove never shows 180, its usually 170 when the fan turns off.
The only time mine has tripped the 200 degree high limit safety is when the flapper door stuck open in warm weather, I think the 400 has two fans, make sure power is off to the fans, take them out and work the flapper open and closed by hand and see if there is any binding. Mine was being held open by cresote, it was tough to diagnose the problem because by the time i worked the fan out of the mounting hole it would free up the flapper from being bumped around.
Why were the two aquastats replaced in november? Similar issue?
Does the bladder have water in it, bladder valve is open, ashes are empty?
36
Heatmor / Re: Thinking of Getting a HEATMOR 200, input please!
« on: February 20, 2015, 06:34:31 AM »
He can burn pretty long wood (50" or something) in his, is he using longer sticks than yours?
Smoke is minimal on mine also, I can't believe the EPA is after stoves like these, they should probably put a stop to forest fires first, I know when that stinky smoke comes through town during a forest fire its an instant headache, I don't get a headache from loading my stove.
The smoke is just a little whiff when the fan is off. When fan turns on, after just loading it, or when some wood shifts inside the box is when it smokes a bit. After it gets burning it seems there are times where there is virtually no smoke.
Smoke is minimal on mine also, I can't believe the EPA is after stoves like these, they should probably put a stop to forest fires first, I know when that stinky smoke comes through town during a forest fire its an instant headache, I don't get a headache from loading my stove.
The smoke is just a little whiff when the fan is off. When fan turns on, after just loading it, or when some wood shifts inside the box is when it smokes a bit. After it gets burning it seems there are times where there is virtually no smoke.
37
Heatmor / Re: Thinking of Getting a HEATMOR 200, input please!
« on: February 18, 2015, 04:21:11 PM »
This is my first winter on firewood in general and using a heatmor 200, any stove is better than fuel oil. I've heard others say the heatmor's aren't as efficient as other stoves. It seemed like I was burning through a lot of wood earlier, but I was using wet/borderline rotten maple, balsam, and birch, now that I've switched to birch thats been cut down for a year, but only cut to firebox length since fall it seems decent.
Only problem I've had with stove is that when temps were warmer out in the fall (30-40 degrees F) the call for heat wasn't as often so the flapper door in front of the fan stuck open slightly because creosote built up on the hinge part. This caused temps to get warmer than they should, but no water was lost or damage, if I'd have had a dump zone hooked up I'd probably not noticed there was a issue. When temps are colder and the fan has to start and stop more often it keeps the flapper door free and moving. I think in the future when temps are that warm I will move the differential to 5-10 degrees, so the fan needs to come on more often. The flapper has even stuck closed because of this issue. It has to do alot with getting used to the stove, if I'd have known that flappers could get stuck I'd have messed with the differential right after the fall install.
I work with a guy that has had his heatmor since the early 90s and the only issue was that just this year his door got some holes in it.
About the only thing I can think of is finding out if its ever been over heated.
How does your neighbors 400 seem on wood usage?
Only problem I've had with stove is that when temps were warmer out in the fall (30-40 degrees F) the call for heat wasn't as often so the flapper door in front of the fan stuck open slightly because creosote built up on the hinge part. This caused temps to get warmer than they should, but no water was lost or damage, if I'd have had a dump zone hooked up I'd probably not noticed there was a issue. When temps are colder and the fan has to start and stop more often it keeps the flapper door free and moving. I think in the future when temps are that warm I will move the differential to 5-10 degrees, so the fan needs to come on more often. The flapper has even stuck closed because of this issue. It has to do alot with getting used to the stove, if I'd have known that flappers could get stuck I'd have messed with the differential right after the fall install.
I work with a guy that has had his heatmor since the early 90s and the only issue was that just this year his door got some holes in it.
About the only thing I can think of is finding out if its ever been over heated.
How does your neighbors 400 seem on wood usage?
38
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Did adding a OWB increase or decrease your power bill?
« on: January 22, 2015, 03:43:57 PM »
Yep, most of it is the pump, hooked it into a thing that tells you how much it would cost to run a month and it was about $12.50, so that plus the fan, and since the water is running cooler than it does with the fuel oil boiler (180 on fuel, 155-160 OWB after it transfers through the water to water exchanger) the zone pumps will need to run more often/longer than when fuel oil was used.
39
Plumbing / is it possible to hook side arm into water heater with plastic drain?
« on: January 16, 2015, 07:09:56 PM »
I need a new water heater just three months after hooking up the side arm on the current water heater. I see alot of them have plastic drain valves. Is this plastic threaded into the metal tank and all I would need to do is remove it and thread in a nipple with a T?
Do propane units tend to be taller than electric ones? My side arm is 48" long, for ease of install it would be nice if that was the distance between the pop off and drain, but the total height of 40 gallon "tall" electric ones seem to be shorter than that.
My current one is a propane and I'm leaning towards switching to electric.
Do propane units tend to be taller than electric ones? My side arm is 48" long, for ease of install it would be nice if that was the distance between the pop off and drain, but the total height of 40 gallon "tall" electric ones seem to be shorter than that.
My current one is a propane and I'm leaning towards switching to electric.
40
Plumbing / Re: other than Logstor, what are the next choices?
« on: January 15, 2015, 09:21:00 PM »
I went with this stuff. http://www.insulseal.com/ Its 4" sch 40 I believe...Glue the plastic together, caulk where the faces of the foam meet, pull plastic of one pipe over the seam and tape, pull plastic of other pipe over the seam and over the other pipe and tape, lay it in the trench (longer the run the more people needed), push the pex through it. My run was about 50 feet and below the OWB is a 45 degree elbow, they make them insulated too, It pushed a little hard but it went, If your going to be doing very long runs I'd guess a pull rope would help. This way pex can be changed if ever needed which isn't likely, in an emergency power could be run through it, but isn't recommended. I liked this stuff because its a true 1.5" of foam all the way around the pipe, the other stuff in the drain tile the pex lines come within half inch of the outter wall on the stuff I looked at.
Time will tell if this was the way to go or not
Time will tell if this was the way to go or not
41
Heatmor / Re: Heat loss
« on: January 11, 2015, 07:47:42 AM »
The gauge thats reading 100, is it the same gauge thats been installed for the last 6 years or something new, or are you using a infrared gun? Do you have more than one gauge that reads 100?
If its just one gauge thats reading 100 maybe its a fault gauge, or if your using a infared gun sometimes when they are used on different materials they won't be accurate at all, I've noticed the accuracy being way off when using them on copper and galvinized.
If it is truely 100 degress when it used to be 160+ you should be able to keep your hand on a 100 degree pipe for quite awhile, at 160 I'd think you'd only be able to hold onto it for a second.
At 100 degrees trying to heat your house I would think the circulator pumps would run almost constantly, or the fan if your using forced air. Does everything seem normal on the house side of things?
If its just one gauge thats reading 100 maybe its a fault gauge, or if your using a infared gun sometimes when they are used on different materials they won't be accurate at all, I've noticed the accuracy being way off when using them on copper and galvinized.
If it is truely 100 degress when it used to be 160+ you should be able to keep your hand on a 100 degree pipe for quite awhile, at 160 I'd think you'd only be able to hold onto it for a second.
At 100 degrees trying to heat your house I would think the circulator pumps would run almost constantly, or the fan if your using forced air. Does everything seem normal on the house side of things?
42
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / side arm exchanger sucks heat out of water heater in the summer
« on: December 25, 2014, 03:55:20 PM »
When I was getting the OWB with side arm on the water heater up and running this fall (fresh install) I was circulating the water through it before a fire was going, to check for leeks, during this time the water heater was still being heated with propane. I noticed that within probably 5 mintues of turning on the OWB circulating pump the propane would turn on for the water heater. It was probably working the opposite way as its designed, it sucked the heat out of water in the water heater. The dealer for the OWB said to let the circulating pump run all summer long, there won't be a fire going in the summer, so if i do this it will suck all the heat out of the water heater. Should a bypass loop before the side arm with valves be installed so it won't circulate through the side arm, or will shut offs on the domestic side of the side arm stop the thermo siphon action? I'd guess the second way there would still be heat loss through the steel of the valves though.
I know summer is a long way off, but I believe the water heater sprung a leek, if i was going to add shut off valves now would be the time to do it.
I know summer is a long way off, but I believe the water heater sprung a leek, if i was going to add shut off valves now would be the time to do it.
43
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: December 09, 2014, 03:20:19 PM »
Does your model have two aquastats in the back of the boiler? Is one set at 180 and the other 200? If the light isn't coming on when the switch is down and the temp is high it must be reaching the high limit switch which it shouldn't do. Have you had the fan out of your boiler to see if the flapper door on it could be sticking open allowing a draft to keep the fire burning when it shouldn't be?
The light does come on when the water temps are lower and the switch is turned to the down position?
Does the fan come on as soon as the outter door is opened?
The light does come on when the water temps are lower and the switch is turned to the down position?
Does the fan come on as soon as the outter door is opened?
44
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Problem on the pressurized system side of my heating system
« on: December 08, 2014, 08:28:15 AM »
Sounds like you and I have a similar set up and maybe the same problem, my pump is a taco 007 that was probably installed in the mid 90's. I can hear a noise either in the pump or in the lines around the pump, sort of sounds like a muffled rattle. This is the first year its done it, but also the first year using OWB, which I would think shouldn't have anything to do with it.. It may do it more when the pump has to run more often, but thats not verified yet. I've had air in the lines so I know what that sounds like unless different amounts of air will effect the sound.
Maybe when its doing it again I'll try to manually open the zone valve thats calling for heat and see if that helps.
Has anyone had a bearing go bad in a pump, what does that sound like?
Are you able to get a small mirror and read the plate on the pump, like the type dentist use.
Maybe when its doing it again I'll try to manually open the zone valve thats calling for heat and see if that helps.
Has anyone had a bearing go bad in a pump, what does that sound like?
Are you able to get a small mirror and read the plate on the pump, like the type dentist use.
45
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Did adding a OWB increase or decrease your power bill?
« on: December 04, 2014, 03:05:02 PM »
Those of you that the bill went down, do you know why? What was running that currently is not with the OWB?
Pump on OWB is a Grundofos UP26-99F 1/6 HP more info here:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-52722355-UP26-99F-Circulator-Pump-1-6-HP-115-volt-5580000-p
I didn't keep my bills from last winter when heating with only fuel oil, but I don't recall them going up much, last bill I have is from end of last winter (march) and I think it was still cold here in northern MN.
Lights are being used more as it gets dark at 5:00, but I live alone, so its not like there is a tremendous usage.
Pump on OWB is a Grundofos UP26-99F 1/6 HP more info here:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-52722355-UP26-99F-Circulator-Pump-1-6-HP-115-volt-5580000-p
I didn't keep my bills from last winter when heating with only fuel oil, but I don't recall them going up much, last bill I have is from end of last winter (march) and I think it was still cold here in northern MN.
Lights are being used more as it gets dark at 5:00, but I live alone, so its not like there is a tremendous usage.