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1

Portage & Main / Re: bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging

« on: January 09, 2017, 05:10:25 AM »

Thanks for the replies. I'll give Brian a call this week.

2

Portage & Main / bl 28-40 front air chamber plugging

« on: January 06, 2017, 10:34:13 AM »

I have trouble keeping the front air chamber clean. Does anyone have any tricks? I'm getting a hot fire and keeping the creosote down everywhere but there. I'm not sure if it is related or not but I have the re-bar spacers in the bricks. I sure wish I had the new style bricks, but I tried to get P&M to give me those at a reasonable price when my stove was new, but Rory won't work with me.

3

Portage & Main / Re: Cleaning front air duct 2840

« on: October 14, 2016, 05:56:10 AM »

I did start a fire last night. I will try the fuel oil trick. Thanks!

4

Portage & Main / Cleaning front air duct 2840

« on: October 13, 2016, 07:05:18 PM »

I have some creosote buildup in the air duct at the front of the stove. Anyone have a good way to clean this out?

5

Portage & Main / Re: 28-40

« on: April 11, 2016, 07:16:36 AM »

Took a while but the manual has been changed. I have been telling my customers all along the manual is incorrect and the supply should come off the bottom and return to the top. Not all boilers boil if the supply is off the top, depends on flow rate. If the supply comes off the bottom there will be less evaporation loss and a more even temperature in the water jacket. Although foil tape may not be ideal, it is an easy short term fix if you are worried about dirt. If you are filling from the basement I don't see how Portage and Main is different from any other boiler that you can't see. If you are filling small amounts of water, open the valve, count to five, close the valve and you should be good.

Can we get a copy of the updated manual?

6

Portage & Main / Re: Upper door on ML30 rusted out

« on: January 05, 2016, 10:20:08 AM »

They worked out a deal. They claimed error on both sides. I never talked to Brian on this I wish I would have. I didn't like working with Rory.

7

Portage & Main / Re: Upper door on ML30 rusted out

« on: January 04, 2016, 05:24:16 AM »

Joks79, how many years did you get out of your ML30?

4

8

Portage & Main / Re: Upper door on ML30 rusted out

« on: December 28, 2015, 06:56:00 AM »

I had the same issue on my ML30. Mine ended up rotting out the heat exchanger where it was welded. Do you have moisture in the heat exchanger?

9

Portage & Main / Re: Calling all BL owners - May have stumbled onto increased burn times with f-brick

« on: November 10, 2015, 05:09:29 AM »

I'm glad this has been brought back to my attention. I am going to talk with Robert about this. My homemade spacers will work again this season but I think I will have to make a new set before next year. The heat will eventually ruin them. P&M should fix this.

I agree!  The least they could do is give them a fair price. The $350ish price Rory gave me was laughable at best.

10

Portage & Main / Re: Calling all BL owners - May have stumbled onto increased burn times with f-brick

« on: November 03, 2015, 05:48:46 AM »

I got a BL-2840 last October to replace My ML-30 that had issues. Not knowing about the upgraded bricks when i picked up the stove I asked Rory if he could help me put the new bricks in my stove. He gave me a ridiculous quote of several hundred dollars. I couldn't justify the cost after just dropping money to upgrade from my ML30 that had the heat exchanger rust out.  I should have giving Brian a call. He was great to work with when I purchased my original stove and my father-in-laws stove when the local stealer wouldn't help me.

I did put the rebar in my stove I think it helps, but with the 1/2" spacing I think it's too much for the fan. I don't seem to get an air out the front air chamber.

11

Electronics / Re: Three way zone valve wiring help for my owb

« on: October 19, 2015, 05:38:29 AM »

I believe this is the valve. I purchased it locally and told the HVAC place what I wanted to do.


http://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-562-5-1-Sweat-3-Way-Zone-Valve-5073000-p

12

Electronics / Re: Three way zone valve wiring help for my owb

« on: October 18, 2015, 08:08:47 AM »

I have a Taco valve to use. I checked my C terminal in my furnace too and I didn't have any voltage there. There are a few dip switches there. Could one of those be the reason to why there is no power?

13

Electronics / Three way zone valve wiring help for my owb

« on: October 17, 2015, 07:20:39 PM »

I want to add a three way zone valve to bypass my heat exchanger in my forced air system so it only flows hot water when needed. My house gets too warm when it is warm outside.  I currently have a aquastat wired in and want to keep it. How can I wire in a zone valve and keep my aquastat and my current thermostat? Would I also have to add a timer to allow the heat exchanger heat up before the fan kicks in?

14

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: insulated lines in my shop

« on: October 14, 2015, 05:19:41 AM »

Very nice! I want to do the same in my utility room. That room is always too warm.

15

Portage & Main / Re: Second guessing myself after the install

« on: February 17, 2015, 05:28:29 AM »

I have the same stove and live in the UP. I can get 12 hr burns. I burn mainly hard and soft Maple. My house is 2760 sq ft. We just completed an addition. The house started off as 960 sq ft with a crawlspace and forced air heat. The crawlspace also has ICF walls. It has R13 in the walls and about a foot of blown-in insulation in the attic. The addition has R21 in the walls, R38 in the ceiling, and ICF basement walls. the addition has all in-floor radiant heat. I have insulated underground lines from Central boiler.

The only time my burn times get mess up are when the bricks move and close off the air flow. I wish P&M would have given me the new style bricks. I just got this stove in October when I replaced my Ml-30. I will be building a spacer this summer like others have done on here.