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31
Central Boiler / Re: Temp monitoring plans
« on: December 06, 2011, 11:33:27 AM »
Ok, thanks. I tried the wireless smoker thermometers you originally were using, but I find that the range is insufficient. They don't work even when the receiving unit is about 10 feet away and seperated only by the floor. So I like this a lot better. I was actually searching for something like the controlbyweb setup for weeks to no avail.
32
Central Boiler / Re: Colder Weather=More burns but not more wood?
« on: December 06, 2011, 11:28:55 AM »
Was thinking that is what you meant, but how do you monitor that statistic?
33
Central Boiler / Re: Temp monitoring plans
« on: December 06, 2011, 09:47:07 AM »
I just ordered my temp monitoring equipment from controlbyweb.com as well.
I chose to order the X300-I model that comes with the 12VDC power supply instead of the POE model, and ordered 6 additional temp sensors and one wall mount temp/humidity sensor for the basement.
Can't wait till it arrives on Monday!
I chose to order the X300-I model that comes with the 12VDC power supply instead of the POE model, and ordered 6 additional temp sensors and one wall mount temp/humidity sensor for the basement.
Can't wait till it arrives on Monday!
34
Central Boiler / Re: Colder Weather=More burns but not more wood?
« on: December 06, 2011, 09:44:29 AM »
Pardon the neophite question, but what is a "burn"?
35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Y Strainer
« on: December 05, 2011, 08:16:23 PM »
Well I put one in to protect my 20 plate heat exchanger. Not sure how I will know when to clean it though.
36
Electronics / Re: Single Thermostat for wood boiler and furnace
« on: November 29, 2011, 03:06:50 PM »
Ok, figured out a cheap modification.
I need to acquire a 'Snap Disk Limit Switch'. Gonna get a White/Rogers 3L05-10. It is adjustable from 135 - 175 degrees F with a 20 degree differential. It is available on line from pexsupply.com for $14.45.
http://www.pexsupply.com/White-Rodgers-3L05-10-Snap-Disc-Limit-Control-135-to-175-Degrees-F-Range-20-Degree-Differential-Open-on-Rise-14765000-p
It is a normally closed SPST switch which opens when a set temp is reached and closes again when the temp falls 20 degrees below set point. I plan to set for 160 degrees.
I will attach to Air/Water heat exchanger 'Hot Water In' pipe. The switch will be wired in series between W2 out of Thermostat and Furnace Control wire.
So, when the Heat exchanger has at least 160 degree water flowing through it, the Snap Disk Limit Switch will be open, and even when the stupid thermostat tries to fire my furnace burner, it will not. But if the once the heat exchanger water input drops to 140 degrees the Snap Disk Limit Switch will close and allow the furnace burner to operate.
Hope this works for you as well.
I need to acquire a 'Snap Disk Limit Switch'. Gonna get a White/Rogers 3L05-10. It is adjustable from 135 - 175 degrees F with a 20 degree differential. It is available on line from pexsupply.com for $14.45.
http://www.pexsupply.com/White-Rodgers-3L05-10-Snap-Disc-Limit-Control-135-to-175-Degrees-F-Range-20-Degree-Differential-Open-on-Rise-14765000-p
It is a normally closed SPST switch which opens when a set temp is reached and closes again when the temp falls 20 degrees below set point. I plan to set for 160 degrees.
I will attach to Air/Water heat exchanger 'Hot Water In' pipe. The switch will be wired in series between W2 out of Thermostat and Furnace Control wire.
So, when the Heat exchanger has at least 160 degree water flowing through it, the Snap Disk Limit Switch will be open, and even when the stupid thermostat tries to fire my furnace burner, it will not. But if the once the heat exchanger water input drops to 140 degrees the Snap Disk Limit Switch will close and allow the furnace burner to operate.
Hope this works for you as well.
37
Electronics / Re: Single Thermostat for wood boiler and furnace
« on: November 23, 2011, 09:29:44 PM »
I finally got my new wood boiler fired up tonite.
In practice my thermostat scheme does not work as I had hoped. The smart thermostat is 'stupid'. It waits 4 minutes after starting stage 1 heat (in this case my wood boiler), and then starts stage 2 heat using my expensive propane in addition to the hot water exchanger.
For now I have disconnected stage 2.
Back to the drawing board.
In practice my thermostat scheme does not work as I had hoped. The smart thermostat is 'stupid'. It waits 4 minutes after starting stage 1 heat (in this case my wood boiler), and then starts stage 2 heat using my expensive propane in addition to the hot water exchanger.
For now I have disconnected stage 2.
Back to the drawing board.
38
Electronics / Re: Single Thermostat for wood boiler and furnace
« on: November 23, 2011, 09:34:56 AM »
Yes, it is a gas furnace.
39
Electronics / Single Thermostat for wood boiler and furnace
« on: November 23, 2011, 08:32:11 AM »
So, I researched this subject like crazy on this forum and across the web and never found an answer that I was satisfied with, so last night I tried what I am about to share and it appears to work to my satisfaction.
System Requirements:
1) 2 stage thermostat. A heat pump thermostat is not a 2 stage thermostat. What I have is an Ecobee EB-STAT-02, so it is the onlly one I have tried this with, but I am sure other manufacturers have programmable digital thermostats that will work as well. The Honeywell IAQ and Prestige are examples.
2) 3-way zone valve
3) 120VAC to 24VAC 40VA step down transformer. This can be a Hard-Wired type, or a Plug-In type.
INSTALLATION STEPS
(i will upload a drawing later)
1) Install 3-way zone valve between Input and output of Water/Air heat exchanger as follows.
A) Hot from boiler (or DHWHX out) to 3-way zone valve COMMON.
B) 3-way Zone Valve NC (Normally Closed) to Water/Air Heat Exchanger IN.
C) 3-way Zone Valve NO (Normally Open) to one side of plumbing Tee.
D) Water/Air Heat Exchanger OUT to second side of plumbing Tee.
E) Third side of plumbing Tee RETURN to Boiler.
2) Electrical Hookup
A) 24VAC terminal 1 to 3-way Zone Valve terminal TH
B) 24VAC terminal 2 to Thermostat RH. (If there is a jumper on thermostat between RH and RC leave it in place)
C) 3-way Zone Valve terminal TR to Thermostat terminal W1 (may be labeled W O/B). If this is an existing installation your furnace W terminal is probably connected here. Move it to Thermostat terminal W2.
D) If you haven't already done so in (C) above, connect Furnace terminal W to Thermostat terminal W2.
That should do it. The way this is going to work is:
Thermostat will call for heat, energizing the solenoid in the 3-way zone valve thus allowing hot water to flow through heat exchanger and turning on the furnace fan. If after a preset amount of time (my thermostat seems to be set for about 10 minutes) if the room temp has not risen sufficiently the furnace burner will start. My thermostat also keeps the zone valve open so the boiler is still helping to heat. I haven't tried this in practice yet, but I have to believe that with the water temp being 165 or so, the likelyhood of the furnace burner lighting is small.
By the way, if your thermostat is already controlling and wired for one of the new 2 stage furnaces you are just going to have to try this or ask an HVAC professional.
System Requirements:
1) 2 stage thermostat. A heat pump thermostat is not a 2 stage thermostat. What I have is an Ecobee EB-STAT-02, so it is the onlly one I have tried this with, but I am sure other manufacturers have programmable digital thermostats that will work as well. The Honeywell IAQ and Prestige are examples.
2) 3-way zone valve
3) 120VAC to 24VAC 40VA step down transformer. This can be a Hard-Wired type, or a Plug-In type.
INSTALLATION STEPS
(i will upload a drawing later)
1) Install 3-way zone valve between Input and output of Water/Air heat exchanger as follows.
A) Hot from boiler (or DHWHX out) to 3-way zone valve COMMON.
B) 3-way Zone Valve NC (Normally Closed) to Water/Air Heat Exchanger IN.
C) 3-way Zone Valve NO (Normally Open) to one side of plumbing Tee.
D) Water/Air Heat Exchanger OUT to second side of plumbing Tee.
E) Third side of plumbing Tee RETURN to Boiler.
2) Electrical Hookup
A) 24VAC terminal 1 to 3-way Zone Valve terminal TH
B) 24VAC terminal 2 to Thermostat RH. (If there is a jumper on thermostat between RH and RC leave it in place)
C) 3-way Zone Valve terminal TR to Thermostat terminal W1 (may be labeled W O/B). If this is an existing installation your furnace W terminal is probably connected here. Move it to Thermostat terminal W2.
D) If you haven't already done so in (C) above, connect Furnace terminal W to Thermostat terminal W2.
That should do it. The way this is going to work is:
Thermostat will call for heat, energizing the solenoid in the 3-way zone valve thus allowing hot water to flow through heat exchanger and turning on the furnace fan. If after a preset amount of time (my thermostat seems to be set for about 10 minutes) if the room temp has not risen sufficiently the furnace burner will start. My thermostat also keeps the zone valve open so the boiler is still helping to heat. I haven't tried this in practice yet, but I have to believe that with the water temp being 165 or so, the likelyhood of the furnace burner lighting is small.
By the way, if your thermostat is already controlling and wired for one of the new 2 stage furnaces you are just going to have to try this or ask an HVAC professional.
40
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I know I'm not crazy...I hope.
« on: October 16, 2011, 02:40:41 PM »
Well the dirt below the frost line is gonna be a constant 50 to 55 degrees which is warmer than the winter air. But if you run 180 degree water in pipes buried directly in it, the dirt is gonna try to suck all that heat out of the water.
When you add the 4" pipe around them, if you could also suspend your water lines without them touching the wall of the 4" pipe maybe that wouldn't be too bad. That is kinda what wrapping them in insulation is doing.
But if they just lay on the bottom of the 4" pipe then they are still going to lose their heat to the earth pretty fast.
Just my 2 cents
When you add the 4" pipe around them, if you could also suspend your water lines without them touching the wall of the 4" pipe maybe that wouldn't be too bad. That is kinda what wrapping them in insulation is doing.
But if they just lay on the bottom of the 4" pipe then they are still going to lose their heat to the earth pretty fast.
Just my 2 cents
41
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Adding water from inside house
« on: October 16, 2011, 02:25:48 PM »I did when I plumed my plate heat exchanger after my "cold" water tank...Here is a picture. I've gotten pretty good a figuring out how long i need to keep the valve open to add wateror ask one of the kids to watch the gauge. Works like a charm....
In your photo there is a Tee fitting which has a pipe going down and a pipe going up. What is at the top of that pipe?
42
Plumbing / Re: Insulate Thermopex that exits ground?
« on: October 15, 2011, 07:17:10 AM »
Well the pipe and foam idea sounds good, but this thermopex has a terrible bend radius of like 4 feet, so probably not a realistic plan.
Thanks!
Thanks!
43
Plumbing / Insulate Thermopex that exits ground?
« on: October 15, 2011, 06:54:19 AM »
In a previous topic we discussed how deep to bury my Thermopex. Despite the fact that the CB instructions plainly state that 8-12 inched deep is adequate, I decided to go below my frost line as suggested for the following reason.
If for whatever reason the boiler is not running, but the Thermopex has liquid in it, and a hard freeze comes along, I did not want to risk the Thermopex bursting.
So here is my dilema. What to do about the Thermopex as it exits the trench vertically to the boiler which naturally passes through the freeze zone.
Do I insulate the vertical run of Thermopex?
If so, with what, and how much insulation is enough?
If not, why not.
Thanks
If for whatever reason the boiler is not running, but the Thermopex has liquid in it, and a hard freeze comes along, I did not want to risk the Thermopex bursting.
So here is my dilema. What to do about the Thermopex as it exits the trench vertically to the boiler which naturally passes through the freeze zone.
Do I insulate the vertical run of Thermopex?
If so, with what, and how much insulation is enough?
If not, why not.
Thanks
44
Electronics / Re: Central Boiler Indoor Water Temperature Indicator
« on: October 07, 2011, 05:26:54 AM »
Thanks Ridgekid, but I mean how much distance will the sending unit transmit to the display unit. BTW wrudoing posted that he sees a 6 degree temp diff between boiler and his temp sensor after the pex enters the house. Isn't that a big temp loss? Do you see something like that too?
45
Electronics / Re: Central Boiler Indoor Water Temperature Indicator
« on: October 06, 2011, 05:21:54 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions.
So what is the range of the wireless thermometers?
So what is the range of the wireless thermometers?