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826

HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster

« on: March 15, 2010, 02:39:14 PM »

 I can tell you how we deal with furnaces that have problems. I ( as the local dealer)  will check out the furnace and see if there is indeed a problem. When we find that it does have a problem we either fix it on site or bring it back to my shop to work on it. If we find that the furnace needs a new water tank and fire box we will install that locally. If the furnace is still under warranty the customer will only have to pay whatever shipping may be involved in delivery of the new tank.   If we find a smaller problem that is still under warranty we can normally fix the problem without any cost to the customer.  This is how we do it, I don't know if that is the same for every Heatmaster dealer or not.

827

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water to forced air

« on: November 17, 2008, 07:34:15 AM »

 If your pump can't push the air out of the coil your pump is undersized. The suppy should be on the side the air is blowing toward. So, when installing in the return, the suppy sould be on the furnace side, and when installing on the supply side the water supply should be away from the furnace. This will make the air warmer. As the air flows through the coil,  it reaches warmer and warmer water.  If you put the hottest water first, the rest of the coil does very little to raise the air temp.

828

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heat exchanger heat loss

« on: November 17, 2008, 07:03:10 AM »

 It is normal to have a 10 to 20 deg. loss. If your using a one inch water line a 50 plate is more than enough. We often use a 20 or 30 plate and they work fine.  Everything sounds normal to me.
Do you need the water to be hotter or is it hot enough the way it is?
One other thing, make sure the water is flowing through the heatexchanger in the proper directions. This will make a difference. The water should  be flowing the opposite directions through the heatexchanger.

829

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Ash pan or not

« on: November 09, 2008, 06:31:22 PM »

 I use a Heat Master SS4000 ( no ashpan). I burn mine year around and emply the ashes 4 to 5 times a year. It not much trouble at all to remove the ashes and it seems to me that if your making your own, the simpler the better.

830

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water to forced air

« on: November 09, 2008, 06:17:36 PM »

 Depends on what kind of furnace you have.  If you have air conditioning you will have to put in a zone valve.

831

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Oil furnace won't stop coming on

« on: November 05, 2008, 10:09:51 AM »

 It may be a heat senser in the oil furnace is doing that.

832

HeatMaster / Heatmaster

« on: November 05, 2008, 09:51:33 AM »

 I am a dealer for Heatmaster in virginia. If anyone has any quesions about these furnaces I would be happy to answer them.

833

WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?

« on: November 05, 2008, 09:29:28 AM »

 The door jam is one of the easyest places for a furnace to leak. The furnace may have been built okay but later a weld may have been cracked.  My father was a Wood Master dealer years ago and back then the company would stand behind their product. I am a Heat Master dealer now and do not have any contact with Wood Master but I would bet they are still a good company. If the dealer will not check out the furnace  I would recomend calling Wood Master direct. Condensation does build  up when the furnace is first fired but shouldn't last more than a day or two. I would guess you have a very small crack in the door jam. This crack may not even leak all the time but as the water heats and cools the crack will open and close. By removing the siding from the front of the furnace you would be able to tell what is happening.