Print

[CountryBoyJohn]

Ok, guys.  My last component to getting my system where I want it, is to hook up my hot tub.  It's pretty cramped under my tub, so I might have to install some things "outside."  I have 2" lines running to 2 circulation pumps.  1 feeds the heating element, and 1 just circulates.  At least that's what I think it does.  How do I route a 2" pvc line through a 1" heat exchanger?  Do I need a gate valve a feather the opening so only half of the flow goes through the exchanger and the other half goes through the pump? 

A more technical question is how do I regulate the temperature in the tub?  Do I just use the Ranco?  Do I connect the hot tub wires to the zone valve?  I'm really at a loss when it comes to this hook up.

Thanks.

John

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

[Scott7m]

The ranco controls it, when it calls for heat only then will it tell zone valve to open allowing heat through the exchanger, the rest of the time, it's bypassing the heat exchanger

[smitty33]

I'm going to be hooking up my hot tub also.  What I am thinking about doing is cutting one of my jet lines, I believe it is about 1" and tie that into a stainless steel tube heater. As far the electrical part, I am going to put a 240volt primary to 24volt secondary transformer on the heater circuit, then run thermostat wire to my 3 way zone valve. So when the tub calls for heat it will turn the transformer on then open my zone valve. Hope this will work, anyone else have there tub hooked up share some ideas?

[slimjim]

I have always used a 240 volt RIB relay with normally open contacts on the lower voltage side at 110 volts, seperate 110 volt breaker and used it to power the circ from the heat manifold (wood boiler) to the tube and shell this only allows the circ to run when tub pump is on, then put 2 tees into the line coming from the hot tub pump, seperate the tees with a ball valve and a ball vave on each tee that goes to the other side of the tube and shell, the ball valves will allow you to balance the flow between the tub and heat exchanger. Don't forget temp guages.

[CountryBoyJohn]

Good advice guys.  Scott, I didn't think about what Smitty said.  I didn't think about grabbing one of the smaller lines.  There are a ton of 1" lines that spur off of the 2" main that goes into the pump.  Do you think that will work?

Slim, I have all the relays and Tee's and temp gauges from a kit.  I just didn't know how to get the tub water through the exchanger.  If I understand correctly, when the thing is all set up, I'll just drop the temp on the hot tub controller to like 95 and use the Ranco to adjust the temp I want in the water. 

I have a "breaker" right outside the tub.  But, there is definitely only 1 breaker, so I'll just have to use it to power my relay and Ranco. 

[slimjim]

Check your local codes as most areas require a GFI breaker for the 220 and if you pull 110 off one leg of the 220 you will trip the breaker every time

[Scott7m]

I don't foresee it being an issue to reduce from 2 to 1 1/4 through the exchanger, does water flow through the jets all the time or not$! 

I'm just not sure we're accomplishing anything by not hooking it up to the main

[CountryBoyJohn]

That's a good question.  Now that I think about it, I bet that 1 pump runs all the time through the heating element and the other pump runs the jets and such.  I think I'll have to power the thing up and make sure.  I've had it drained for the summer.  I think running off the main will work better like you suggest.   If I pull it off of a jet line, I'd have to have the jet ON to get any heat out of it.  I have an electrician buddy coming out next week to look at my power supply and suggest the best way to hook up the relay and valve. 

[Scott7m]

That's a good question.  Now that I think about it, I bet that 1 pump runs all the time through the heating element and the other pump runs the jets and such.  I think I'll have to power the thing up and make sure.  I've had it drained for the summer.  I think running off the main will work better like you suggest.   If I pull it off of a jet line, I'd have to have the jet ON to get any heat out of it.  I have an electrician buddy coming out next week to look at my power supply and suggest the best way to hook up the relay and valve.

Yea that's what I was thinking......... 


The kit you received is enough to make the stove side of this work, you'll have to buy a few fittings n such to make the tub side work,  but it's not to big of a deal.  You'll basically do a bypass there with your zone valve and when the tub needs heat it will allow stove water through the tube to heat the tub

[CountryBoyJohn]

Thanks ITO.  Do you have any pictures?  Do you have 2 pumps on your tub as well? 

[CountryBoyJohn]

What fitting do you use to secure the thermostat sensor immersion well into the flow?  I understand it will be a tee of some sort.  Can you send me a link to one?  Also, how to you secure the sensor into the immersion well?

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

[CountryBoyJohn]

A big shout out to Scott and RSI for helping me out with my wiring on my hot tub.  I sent a partially completed wiring diagram for my hot tub kit, and RSI completed it for me.  As you can see, I had several connection points on 3 different components.  A transformer, thermostat, and the zone valve.  I usually don't have trouble with black, white, ground.  But these labels were a whole nother animal.  I was totally lost. But, I followed the diagram and presto!  Man I love this site!   

[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]

[603doug]

My system is simply a ufuro supplied with a cir pump wired to a 1 degree aquastat thru a shell exchanger
We change the water twice a week(600gal), because I do not use chemicals. I am a well driller so water is not a problem and we store the used water for gardens in the summer, setting up a larger tank for using for a gray water system in winter plus gravity fed when we lose power

[jimr]

Just a reminder, any fittings you use that comes in contact with the hot tub water with chlorine must be stainless. Do not use plastic fittings in the tube exchanger, the water temperature from your wood burner 170+ is to much for plastic.