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1
Shaver Furnace / Re: How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: November 05, 2013, 08:19:00 AM »
1x1/4 nomex strip
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Shaver Furnace / Re: How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: October 28, 2013, 06:34:46 PM »just curious, how is the door gasket holding up
It's working great so far. I had to step it as I got away from the hinge, 1 layer on hinge side, then two, then three by latch. The two stage controller is also working well, but I had to turn my outdoor loop circulator on full time to keep an even temp throughout the inside of the boiler.
3
Shaver Furnace / Re: How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: October 15, 2013, 11:46:05 AM »
So, I drilled a hole through the tin and insulation with a 1" hole saw and then drilled a 7/16 hole through the top of the water jacket (where there's an extra support plate on top of the boiler). Once I drilled through both layers, I threaded the hole with a 1/4" NPT tap and threaded in my 8" nipple. I essentially have two overflow pipes now, but at least I can fill the boiler completely and don't have to deal with those pesky air bubbles. I plan to silicone around the pipe and re-insulate with spray foam, but I wanted to check for leaks first. I really wish I just added a 1.5 or 2" overflow to the top of the boiler when I had it all apart and eliminated the dumb pipe on the side, but live and learn.
4
Shaver Furnace / Re: How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: October 10, 2013, 08:53:37 AM »
One issue I noticed after the fact, which is a pretty big fail, is the overflow port was re-engineered incorrectly. It is in the original position and just extended up with a 90*, but what happens when you try to fill above that port is the air gap above the water level begins to compress and has nowhere to go, so it pushes water out the overflow without fully filling the boiler. I'm going to drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole into that double plate piece behind the chimney to allow the air to escape and the boiler to fill completely. I should have caught this to begin with, but there were so many issues to address I missed this one. Hopefully anyone following in my footsteps can address this correctly from the beginning by eliminating the side overflow pipe and move it to the top of the water jacket. I'll post pictures of this correction shortly.
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Shaver Furnace / Re: How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: September 30, 2013, 12:06:57 PM »with top welded shut how do you add boiler treatment
Just pour it in the overflow with a funnel like every other outdoor boiler.
6
Shaver Furnace / How I improved my shaver boiler model 290
« on: September 27, 2013, 09:37:17 AM »
I bought my outdoor wood boiler in 2008 and have had a series of issues I wanted to address to make the boiler more user-friendly and efficient. Below you will find a series of images and descriptions documenting this process.
The boiler originally shipped with a rather rudimentary temperature control system consisting of a surface mount thermostat that cycled an electric blower on and off, and a manually adjusted draft door on the blower. I had a very difficult time regulating the temperature. I had frequent boil-overs and wide swings in water temp. I addressed the problem by adding a dry well, a solenoid, and a two stage digital aquastat that is set as follows:
180* - blower off and damper closed
<180* but >=175* - blower off and damper open
<175* - blower on and damper open
The idea is to only use the blower when needed, as it forces hot air out the chimney and wastes heat.
The second issue I faced, was what I personally define as “poor insulation”. The boiler used some type of fiberglass batting on the to and sides, and nothing on the bottom of the water jacket. I decided to strip the tin, and ultimately the framing from the boiler and prep for spray foam. I was a bit disappointed to find the outer shell of the water jacket also had no paint and was beginning to rust:
I also discovered the water jacket was not welded solid around the top of the boiler, which essentially left me with a 50 gal air space above the water level:
I sandblasted the boiler, welded the gaps, and sealed the welds with polyurethane roofing sealer for good measure, then painted the boiler and tacked on studs to attach tin:
I also cut and threaded the overflow pipe on the side to direct it up through the roof and reclaim that unused 50 gallons of airspace for water storage.
Before I welded that ridiculous inspection cover in place, I added a couple 90* and a few pieces of pipe to the inside of the return pipe to direct the water to the front of the boiler and promote better circulation. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of this step.
Once this long and laborious process was complete, I was ready to have the boiler insulated with closed cell spray foam. I kept the foam away from the door and chimney area, I used rock wool high-temp insulation for those areas, along with in-between the inner and outer firebox door panel:
The single wall chimney was also a source of problems for me. At least twice during the winter it would clog up and I would have to climb onto the shed roof and attempt to clean it out. I decided to cut the existing chimney off about 12” above the tank, and bought some nice triple wall insulated pipe and a cap. I reused most of the existing tin, but had to buy a few corner pieces and covered the furnace
I added a switch to cut the power to the damper and blower while loading the stove:
Since I spray foamed the bottom of the boiler and the hot coals sit in the ash pan and could potentially melt the foam, I thought it best to line the ash pan with half-height firebricks. These bricks also raise the floor of the firebox even with the bottom of the cleanout door, which is a nice benefit.
I think I may also experiment with lining the floor and possibly the firebox walls with firebrick in an attempt to raise combustion temps and further improve efficiency. I’m going to experiment with a secondary burn air tube plumbed from the ash pan area, up along chimney, and along the ceiling of the firebox. I’ve drilled a series of holes in the pipe that runs along the firebox ceiling in hope that the air will help ignite the wood gasses and initiate a secondary burn. I’m not fully sold this will work, but it was an easy modification while I was working on the boiler:
From the factory, the door gaskets consist of a large bead of hi-temp silicone, which on my boiler, melted away every year. I decided to clean off the sealing area and glue a 1”x1/4” strip of nomex to both doors. If I can’t seal the firebox, all the sophisticated controls in the world won’t properly regulate the temperature.
I know I’ve missed a few items, and need more and better pictures of others, but this should be a good start. I’ll keep track of wood usage this winter to document any improvements. In the past winters, I’ve used about 12-14 full cord of hardwood to heat a three level (including finished basement) 3000ft house to 72*, an 800ft garage to 55*, and an 800ft apartment above the garage to 72*. Everything but the apartment has radiant floor heat, and both are well insulated. On the coldest spells, 3 days or more of constant below 20 weather, I had to load the boiler up to four times per day, and it would still never reach a 175* set point, the blower ran constantly.
In case you didn't notice in the pictures, there are actually two different 290's we did the same modifications on, so there is a mix of pictures.
The boiler originally shipped with a rather rudimentary temperature control system consisting of a surface mount thermostat that cycled an electric blower on and off, and a manually adjusted draft door on the blower. I had a very difficult time regulating the temperature. I had frequent boil-overs and wide swings in water temp. I addressed the problem by adding a dry well, a solenoid, and a two stage digital aquastat that is set as follows:
180* - blower off and damper closed
<180* but >=175* - blower off and damper open
<175* - blower on and damper open
The idea is to only use the blower when needed, as it forces hot air out the chimney and wastes heat.
The second issue I faced, was what I personally define as “poor insulation”. The boiler used some type of fiberglass batting on the to and sides, and nothing on the bottom of the water jacket. I decided to strip the tin, and ultimately the framing from the boiler and prep for spray foam. I was a bit disappointed to find the outer shell of the water jacket also had no paint and was beginning to rust:
I also discovered the water jacket was not welded solid around the top of the boiler, which essentially left me with a 50 gal air space above the water level:
I sandblasted the boiler, welded the gaps, and sealed the welds with polyurethane roofing sealer for good measure, then painted the boiler and tacked on studs to attach tin:
I also cut and threaded the overflow pipe on the side to direct it up through the roof and reclaim that unused 50 gallons of airspace for water storage.
Before I welded that ridiculous inspection cover in place, I added a couple 90* and a few pieces of pipe to the inside of the return pipe to direct the water to the front of the boiler and promote better circulation. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of this step.
Once this long and laborious process was complete, I was ready to have the boiler insulated with closed cell spray foam. I kept the foam away from the door and chimney area, I used rock wool high-temp insulation for those areas, along with in-between the inner and outer firebox door panel:
The single wall chimney was also a source of problems for me. At least twice during the winter it would clog up and I would have to climb onto the shed roof and attempt to clean it out. I decided to cut the existing chimney off about 12” above the tank, and bought some nice triple wall insulated pipe and a cap. I reused most of the existing tin, but had to buy a few corner pieces and covered the furnace
I added a switch to cut the power to the damper and blower while loading the stove:
Since I spray foamed the bottom of the boiler and the hot coals sit in the ash pan and could potentially melt the foam, I thought it best to line the ash pan with half-height firebricks. These bricks also raise the floor of the firebox even with the bottom of the cleanout door, which is a nice benefit.
I think I may also experiment with lining the floor and possibly the firebox walls with firebrick in an attempt to raise combustion temps and further improve efficiency. I’m going to experiment with a secondary burn air tube plumbed from the ash pan area, up along chimney, and along the ceiling of the firebox. I’ve drilled a series of holes in the pipe that runs along the firebox ceiling in hope that the air will help ignite the wood gasses and initiate a secondary burn. I’m not fully sold this will work, but it was an easy modification while I was working on the boiler:
From the factory, the door gaskets consist of a large bead of hi-temp silicone, which on my boiler, melted away every year. I decided to clean off the sealing area and glue a 1”x1/4” strip of nomex to both doors. If I can’t seal the firebox, all the sophisticated controls in the world won’t properly regulate the temperature.
I know I’ve missed a few items, and need more and better pictures of others, but this should be a good start. I’ll keep track of wood usage this winter to document any improvements. In the past winters, I’ve used about 12-14 full cord of hardwood to heat a three level (including finished basement) 3000ft house to 72*, an 800ft garage to 55*, and an 800ft apartment above the garage to 72*. Everything but the apartment has radiant floor heat, and both are well insulated. On the coldest spells, 3 days or more of constant below 20 weather, I had to load the boiler up to four times per day, and it would still never reach a 175* set point, the blower ran constantly.
In case you didn't notice in the pictures, there are actually two different 290's we did the same modifications on, so there is a mix of pictures.
7
Shaver Furnace / Re: what is the best temp to set your stove at what about dif temp
« on: October 12, 2010, 05:16:47 AM »
depends on your type of heating and the outdoor temp. Whe it's mild out I do 135 on 140 off and work up to 165 on 170 off when it stays below 25 or 30 during the day. I have radiant floor heat.
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Shaver Furnace / Re: how to wire a ranco 111000 temperature control on shaver 165
« on: September 29, 2010, 07:52:04 PM »
On the top 3 terminals, you'll connect black from power to "120" and white to "COM".
You'll need a short jumper wire to go from the "120" terminal to the "C" on the bottom three terminals
Then you'll come off the "NO" with a black wire and connect it to your blower and/or solenoid along with a white wire either from "COM" or from a junction box in your furnace.
9
Shaver Furnace / Re: My Shaver experience and modifications I've made
« on: September 18, 2010, 04:57:31 AM »what is the model thermostat you used and where did u get it thanks
I got a Ranco 1110000 from here: http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=ranco_etc-111000&product=110270
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Shaver Furnace / Re: My Shaver experience and modifications I've made
« on: June 01, 2010, 09:49:55 AM »hi
just wondering how is your homemade immersion well worked out for you.
did you just used high temp caulk to make it water tight (between the flare and the tank)?
what kind of caulk did you used and how is it holding?
thanks.
Works great!
I used the black automotive hi-temp silicone.
11
Shaver Furnace / Re: Just about had it with this damn stove!!!!!
« on: March 26, 2009, 06:51:48 AM »
That's terrible! Take some pictures if you can. The leakis below the ash pan? Is it rusted out? Shaver needs to step up and make crap right or there's going to be a LARGE class action lawsuit.
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Shaver Furnace / Re: 2nd cold snap
« on: January 24, 2009, 02:47:31 PM »
The only thing I notice about my Shaver when it's windy and below 20*, is heat loss from the furnace itself. No difference in the burning, but the lack of insulation below and poor insulation on the sides make it hard for me to keep a water temp above 150*, even when I load it 4 times per day. Definitely need to take care of the insulation this spring.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING
« on: January 23, 2009, 12:09:45 PM »If I cap the vent on top, and extend the unused side port out and 90* up 7 or 8 inches, can I use it as a vent, or will it just keep pushing the water out until it gets down 7" to the level of that port?Yes I think that would work well, the top of your extension will determine your water level.
Your lower right picture shows the vent pipe BELOW the water level. Does it push water out as it heats, or is the level in the 90* with the water at it's hottest??It will push water out as it heats and expands, but as long as the temperature stays somewhat constant after that you'll be in good shape. I add, at most, a quart of water every 3-4 weeks, compared to the gallon a day before I modified it
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water loss from STEAMING
« on: January 23, 2009, 09:12:53 AM »
Mark,
I'm the one who posted the shaver steaming fix. If I understand your setup correctly you have a overflow pipe at the top of the stove, but an open unused fitting/ port below. How do you limit the maximum water level? Does the water run out that unused port once your finished adding it, or does it come out the vent on the top? The theory behind my steam fix is to limit the surface area of water exposed to atmosphere, I did it by controlling the level by using the 90* upturned which ultimately limited to surface area exposed to atmosphere to the inside area of my 90*.
You need to create a method of limiting your water level, which also keeps outside air from "touching" the top of the water inside your furnace. I doubt your temperature is the issue, water steams long before it boils (like in the shower).
Look at the image below, in the bottom right corner do you see the difference between those two setups? The one on the left allows air to enter through the vent and contact the entire water surface are, the one on the right only allows the water inside the 90* to come in contact with the atmosphere. You might just be able to block the ope port off and fiil the boiler until water comes out the vertical overflow on the top of the boiler.
I'm the one who posted the shaver steaming fix. If I understand your setup correctly you have a overflow pipe at the top of the stove, but an open unused fitting/ port below. How do you limit the maximum water level? Does the water run out that unused port once your finished adding it, or does it come out the vent on the top? The theory behind my steam fix is to limit the surface area of water exposed to atmosphere, I did it by controlling the level by using the 90* upturned which ultimately limited to surface area exposed to atmosphere to the inside area of my 90*.
You need to create a method of limiting your water level, which also keeps outside air from "touching" the top of the water inside your furnace. I doubt your temperature is the issue, water steams long before it boils (like in the shower).
Look at the image below, in the bottom right corner do you see the difference between those two setups? The one on the left allows air to enter through the vent and contact the entire water surface are, the one on the right only allows the water inside the 90* to come in contact with the atmosphere. You might just be able to block the ope port off and fiil the boiler until water comes out the vertical overflow on the top of the boiler.
15
Shaver Furnace / Re: first cold snap
« on: December 20, 2008, 06:43:50 PM »
spring can't come quick enough for me to add insulation. How long did it take for you to strip the siding, especially around the areas that were siliconed from the factory. could you document the process you followed? Do you think shooting the insulation underneath would help anymore? Do you have any more pictures of the process other than the ones you posted?
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