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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / plate heat exchanger to heat house
« on: February 11, 2014, 07:48:50 PM »
I was having a conversation with a plumber today and we got on the subject of my OWB and he was saying that If I would have brought my water lines in from the boiler through a plate exchanger and used that to heat the water that heats my house, I would have a more efficient system and use less wood.
To let all know, i currently come in from the boiler with an 1.25 insulated line into an 8 port manifold that goes out to my hot water tank, furnace exchanger and various baseboards through out the house.
Right now I don't have any issue's heating my house, just have to run the furnace fan steady when it gets to -30 degrees C, the thought of using less wood always peaks my interest.
Any thoughts.
To let all know, i currently come in from the boiler with an 1.25 insulated line into an 8 port manifold that goes out to my hot water tank, furnace exchanger and various baseboards through out the house.
Right now I don't have any issue's heating my house, just have to run the furnace fan steady when it gets to -30 degrees C, the thought of using less wood always peaks my interest.
Any thoughts.
2
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster Gasificaiton units?
« on: January 06, 2014, 09:28:36 PM »
Not sure what the g100 is like, but I did own a g400 for a little while and had big issues with it. The air tubes going into the fire box would constantly clog up. It was much worst during the warmer times and then I would notice it when it got cold, the water temp would not come up to temp. I tried running a plumbing snake down the air tubes and that would work for a little while, but the final fix was trading it in for a 10000e, I couldn't keep the air tubes open.
3
HeatMaster / Re: stove problems
« on: December 08, 2013, 08:49:11 AM »
Just curious, when your stove is calling for heat, is the fan coming on, if so, can you check to make sure the solenoid is opening the damper at the back
4
Plumbing / manifold setup
« on: November 21, 2013, 07:23:09 PM »
I just recently installed 1"1/4 thermopex and a new Mr Pex manifold. With the manifold I have 5 circuits feeding baseboard rads, heat HX in the furnace duct and the hot water tank. My question is should I setup the manifold circuits so that all runs have the same flow rate, or should I set up the runs to all have the same return temp.
5
For Sale / Re: Left over Thermopex for sale
« on: November 15, 2013, 04:48:36 PM »
I live in BC, Canada, but also have a cabin in Fortine MT, so could set up something from either area.
6
For Sale / Left over Thermopex for sale
« on: November 15, 2013, 04:06:55 PM »
I have 30 feet of 1 1/4" Thermopex left over from my install. I paid $18 per foot, but would be willing to take $10 per foot for it.
7
HeatMaster / Re: Best Loading Practices
« on: November 15, 2013, 07:44:44 AM »
I had the same problem when I first got my 10000e, I had believe that is was getting chocked out in between burn cycles, so I took off the blower motor and where the flap is that opens when the fan kicks in, I put a small 1/8" spacer to keep a bit of air flowing in. I believe I use just a small piece of a fridge magnet. I know some people are going to throw out warnings of the fire running away and boiling the water, but it worked fine for me and is still working. So after doing this I ran into my local dealer and mentioned that I had to do this and he said that after the seals break in the will start to leak a little and that I could probably take that spacer out. I am on the second year of burning have just left the spacer in, I have my stove set a 178 with 10 degree diff, and the temp overshoot at the most has been 182.
8
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster releases new gasification line
« on: August 18, 2013, 05:41:37 PM »
Hopefully they fixed a few design flaws. I owned a G400 for a short time and was left heating my house with plug in electric heaters due to it failing. I now own a 10000e and love it.
9
HeatMaster / Re: what chimney do I need
« on: May 01, 2013, 02:31:51 PM »
you need Selkirk Ultra Temp 8 inch, you may have to special order it, no one around my area stocked it
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what size of underground pipe to use
« on: April 10, 2013, 09:51:51 PM »
I should also mention that right now I don't have my DHW or garage heated by my OWB due to the poorly insulated lines. My water is set at 180, but by the time it gets to the house it will easily drop 20 degress or even closer to 25 when the outside temp gets around -30 celcuis, so I don't want to drop my return temp more than I have too.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what size of underground pipe to use
« on: April 10, 2013, 09:46:15 PM »I was thinking if 2 3/4" were doing it that 1" inside would, but maybe that's not the case?
right now I have 2 3/4 inch supply and 2 3/4 inch return lines
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what size of underground pipe to use
« on: April 10, 2013, 09:44:59 PM »13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / what size of underground pipe to use
« on: April 10, 2013, 06:41:35 PM »
Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on the size of pipe to use from the OWB to my house. I will be heating about 5000 square feet, plus an attached garage, and DHW. My house is not very well insulated. I have a HeatMaster 10000e and currently have 2 supply and return lines that are 3/4" that are also not insulated very well. I will am looking at either a single run of 1" or 1.25" insulated pipe. I am more curious whether the 1" will be enough or should I spend the extra for the 1.25"
Thanks,
birchbark
Thanks,
birchbark
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / what size of underground pipe to go with
« on: February 28, 2013, 10:07:04 PM »
I will be replacing my piping from the house to the owb this summer and I have my mind made up on using Thermopex, I am just not sure if I should go with 1" or 1.25". I am heating right around 4800 sq feet, older home, not great insulation. My current setup is 2 supply and 2 returns 3/4" from the boiler that are not insulated. I can heat my house fine with it, but I have a heck of a temp drop from the boiler to the house. I got a quote of $12 a foot for 1" and $16 a foot for 1.25", I need 100 feet, so a difference of $400, just not sure if it is required or worth it. If I want the 1.25", the dealer I am getting it from, suggests getting it ordered as sometimes it can take a long time to come in.
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Generators/House hook up/ Boilers
« on: February 19, 2013, 08:30:28 PM »
The best and safest way would be to buy a manual transfer switch. Just google it and you should find lots of different makes. By using on of these, there is no way to accidently back feed into the grid or accidently feed into your generator from your panel. As for a generator, both Honda and Yamaha make nice inverter styles. You can also purchase a remote start kit for these, so if you do lose power, just start it up from inside, go and transfer your switch, and you got lights, power for pumps and what ever else is needed, depending on the size of generator you get. Then just wait for utility power to be restored, transfer back, and remotely shut off the generator.