This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

16

HeatMaster / Re: roof snow melt/heat loss

« on: March 21, 2018, 05:31:49 PM »

That's funny I've always remarked on how long the snow stays on the roof of mine. Sometimes days on end with just long icicles forming on the edges of the roof sides. I did put a piece of tin roof under the roof cover kind of around the chimeny area the last time I had the roof off as a heat shield. don't really know it made any difference.

17

The Wall Of Shame / Re: Oops

« on: February 17, 2018, 06:28:08 AM »

My loader died in the middle of the road a couple weeks ago while plowing snow. Backed out of the neighbors yard and dead on the spot.  Had to walk home and find my wife and get the backhoe to drag it back. Of course the backhoe battery was dead  Guess that's what you get for being nice Changed the filters and put in some of that diesel 911 then bled the pump and the injectors and it's running fine again. Good thing there wasn't much traffic that day.

18

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rubber heater hose?

« on: February 17, 2018, 06:16:09 AM »

I also have 1" heater hose from my underground to my boiler supply and return. I used the sweat x o-ring adapters on the logstor then clamped the heater hose onto about a 6" piece of copper and ran it up about 12" in the back of the boiler and connected it to the copper I had there. Never had any leaks or issues.

19

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: cast iron radiators

« on: February 17, 2018, 06:09:27 AM »

Cast iron all the way , wouldn't have it any other way. We recently purchased an 1850 farm house 2000 sq ft. that was being heated with 2 space heaters. House has never been insulated and has the original windows. We are planning on keeping the interior pretty much all original but didn't really want the big radiators we had in the last house. I was able to buy enough cast iron base board on CL to do the entire house for $300. It looks like it was always here. They get hot and stay hot. I used long pieces of 6" tall in the bigger rooms and 9"shorter pieces in the smaller rooms. I have 2 3/4" pex loops with 1/2" supply and return lines with monoflow tees. Most of the 1/2" runs are under 4'. There was a little lag in getting everything warmed up in the beginning but now I am getting pretty even heat in all the base board (checking with my hand) been meaning to put the infrared on them and see how much I am loosing at the last part of the bigger loop. I also put valves on a few of the supply ends in case I ever wanted to dampen them down if some rooms were getting too much heat.

20

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Propane

« on: January 30, 2018, 07:01:04 AM »

One of the guys who works for me said he just paid $3.19/gal to fill his 500 gal. so don't cry you guys are lucky.

21

General Discussion / Re: Dutch oven

« on: January 30, 2018, 06:53:19 AM »

In our last house there was a wood fired oven built into the back of the hearth with the wooden door to the right of the fireplace. It was constructed probably late 1700's or early 1800's. That was about the thickest constructed piece of masonry I have ever seen , guessing so it would hold the heat well. I would have lit a fire in there without any worries. The reason we never did was the chimney was not safe. If someone wanted to pour a liner in that chimney then I would bet it would be perfectly safe. In the old construction clearances to combustibles was rarely considered and pointed brick chimneys are prone to fires when the mortor starts to fail.

22

HeatMaster / Re: slab wood does the trick

« on: January 30, 2018, 06:39:10 AM »

I think soft wood slabs like pine would burn really fast , but those look like nice big pieces of hardwood slabs. I would bet that does work pretty good. Saves on splitting too.

23

General Discussion / Re: Propane

« on: January 22, 2018, 06:34:41 AM »

We have that problem here no one will fill a tank unless they own it. They all have some bs line about insurance and tank inspections and whatever else they can come up with. We are only using propane for cooking and they were wacking us $80/yr. for the tank rental plus about $6/gal for the gas. I ended up buying 2 100# tanks and an auto-swap regulator. When one runs out  the hardware store down the street will fill it for $75. Problem solved for us.

24

General Discussion / Re: Flood

« on: January 14, 2018, 11:12:12 AM »

WOW that is a mess. I thought we had some water issues down here with the rain and snow melt but it didn't get to freeze up like that.

25

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Emergency Generator

« on: January 10, 2018, 06:57:06 AM »

I have a 1500 watt magnetic block heater that I use on a couple of the tractors and the diesel welder when it is very cold. Warms the oil enough to get them to turn over easier. I'm sure you could put that on a T-stat plug or plug it in manually when it was needed. But then again a lot of the new small engines have aluminum blocks so I'm not sure how that would work out.

26

Plumbing / Re: Anyone heard of hy-PE-RTube?

« on: January 04, 2018, 03:11:42 PM »

Just thought I'd give a little update since I put the hot water to the pex. I am running my boiler at 180 HL with 160 LL. I had all the loops hung up nicely to the ceiling joists with hangers about every other one. Well this stuff is like rubber with heat to it. Had to go back and nail it up on every joist to make it stay up on the ceiling. The pex-a I ran for domestic hot water is much less flexable , but only 130 max temp too.

27

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Leak

« on: January 04, 2018, 03:03:29 PM »

well 7018 for sure if you can get the area nice and clean otherwise piggy-11 will get it done. you could mig weld it as well but I stick weld anything I can. Just works for me.

28

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Emergency Generator

« on: January 04, 2018, 01:24:57 PM »

I had 4 batteries blow up on us one day thankfully no one was hurt. We were going to respond to a fire and the pumper wouldn't start so we jumped it with a the jump setting on the battery booster and one spark and boom battery parts everywhere. Figured out later that the trickle charger had dried out the batteries producing hydrogen gas. that was quite the experience. Very careful jumping things since.

29

Plumbing / Re: Water temp.

« on: December 30, 2017, 06:59:32 AM »

I have also heard that radiator flush works good for flushing out the hx

30

Plumbing / Re: Water temp.

« on: December 29, 2017, 12:06:01 PM »

When I plumbed in my oil boiler I used 1 1/4" copper , so I decided to plumb that side of my fphx the same size. I have a 70 plate hx I believe it is something like 5 1/2 x 12" with 1 1/4" ports. My old house was much larger so now it's probably overkill but it still works fine. I have a taco 007 that runs that loop all the time. I have the water flowing from the hx to the 1 1/4' return on the boiler then returning to the hx at the end of my supply piping after the circulators. I had it hooked up that way at the other house too except the circulators there were on the return side instead. There is not really any restriction that way and my temp gauges on both sides of the hx read within a few degrees of each other. Just the way I decided to do it , I'm sure other ways work as well.