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Messages - mlappin

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46
Oh yah, still removing knob and tube from our house. When I pulled the old fuse boxes and replaced with a breaker box the main feed wire from outside all the insulation was crumbling on that. I won’t use aluminum wire unless its over head, new copper mains were pulled thru a 2” conduit that was routed under the crawl space to get outside. Copper leads good for 200 amps are a real booger to pull thru several elbows.

47
I’ve found diamond cutting tool makes short work of the sand plaster without busting it all up, goes thru the lathe even like butter. I had a 7” diamond blade in the skil saw for cutting the opening out.

48
Oh I knew the one wall wasn’t insulated, its our house after all. I don’t do enough drywall to ever feel comfortable doing it for somebody else, let alone mudding it.

49
So opened up under the stairwell going to the second story and found something interesting. They tore the lathe and plaster off the one wall and left the other. What was left they wrote a poem on, signed their names and dated it. House was built 1857, poem was wrote 1883. Plan is to fasten a piece of plexiglass over it and leave it. Have zero clues as to where the original stairwell was located.

Also the exposed section of wall had zero insulation in it, it was tried to use blow in cellulose above it but just fell down the wall cavity and left a foot of it under the stairs. To top it all off when central heat was installed a 10” cold air return was ran a few foot off the furnace then right up under the stairs, a few registers were placed in the kick boards near the bottom to pull cold air from the upstairs down, only issue was near the top of the stairs a void was left that went right under the flat roof, so for the last 100 years(?) the cold air return has been literally pulling air from outside, central AC has also been pulling hot air from under the roof. Even after cutting a door opening in when the furnace kicked on the cobwebs would move where the air was coming in from the flat roof. Immediately noticed wood consumption went down after boxing in the registers in the stairs, connecting directly to the cold air return and closing off and insulating the void at the flat roof.


Closet under stairwell. by Marty Lappin, on Flickr



Closet under stairwell. by Marty Lappin, on Flickr



Untitled by Marty Lappin, on Flickr




50
General DIY remodeling without Hydronics / Re: Question about Lumber
« on: February 03, 2020, 08:43:25 PM »
Started another project, old vs new 2x4


Old vs new by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

51
HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration
« on: February 03, 2020, 08:14:04 PM »
Marty, you actually took the time to research what the membership levels of all those sites were? But you can’t find the time to read the first page of this thread even after accusing me of being the culprit!
Wow, just plain WOW, it’s time for a change!


Perfect example here, open Facebook on the smart phone, touch the groups icon, tap a group, scroll to the top of the page, each group has the number of members listed. Took me less time to check on member totals than it did to post here.

The forum software just needs changed to something else, I don’t think updating it is enough.

However I’ve also been a member of another forum that changed software, a lot of stuff was lost and was gone forever during the transfer.

52
Central Boiler / Re: Did your CB lose Firestar communication last night?
« on: February 02, 2020, 09:35:41 AM »
I have a thermocouple in the stack and one in the reaction chamber on my G200, you lose the coal bed and it shows up in the reaction chamber temps, it’d be nice to have that data to show the owner that roughly between 2-3:30am they lost the coal bed over the last week and that’s why they are getting creosote past the nozzle or it sees to be burning too much wood.

53
Central Boiler / Re: Did your CB lose Firestar communication last night?
« on: February 01, 2020, 10:10:37 AM »
So from what it sounds like, all data is sent to a CB server first then you look the html page up?

HM is working on something similar, from a dealer standpoint it would be great to see the data before ever leaving for a service call.

54
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: February 01, 2020, 10:08:30 AM »
I’m thinking doing two bays anyways, i’ll do one in copper and the other in pex and measure the output at the top register. I was going to line the bays with foil insulation anyways, can staple some over the bays  to close em off for a quick test before the drywall goes on.

55
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 30, 2020, 08:59:21 PM »
Copper definitely has more conductivity than pex, but emissivity I don't know. I'd think it's also more or they'd be making radiators out of plastic by now instead of copper? Same theory for the paint, I'd think that would hurt emission more than help. I was always under the impression that copper/brass automotive radiators were painted solely for corrosion purposes. Notice most aluminum rads in today's vehicles are unpainted


https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html

56
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 29, 2020, 07:37:40 AM »
I’ve got to thinking about this, before I redid all my plumbing in the basement had maybe 50’ of 1” pex down there. Have almost twice that in copper now, had to add baseboard heaters down there, was never chilly before with the pex. Course, I moved quite a bit around and the longest loop is a secondary to the furnace HX.

Just thinking out loud here, but wonder if it changes how much heat copper would give off if it was painted black like car radiators?

57
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 28, 2020, 05:11:38 PM »
You could always hide a good sized loop of it behind a homemade frame art work thing. They can print just about anything on material toady. It will be right in the room for maximum heat transfer.

Thats an interesting suggestion, except we are taking the lathe and plaster off the office side anyways.

Want numerous outlets, along with ethernet and phone jacks on every wall.

58
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 28, 2020, 07:44:17 AM »
Good ole engineering tool box, shiny (polished)  copper has a emissitivity of .023-.025 while heavily oxidized copper is .78.

They don’t list pex, but most plastics are over .90.


https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html

59
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: January 28, 2020, 07:33:14 AM »
Emissivity of pex is actually higher than copper. I think so anyway because of coppers shiny surface.

Really? I kinda figured its backwards, pex with 180 degree water in it can be grabbed, don’t want to grab copper with the same water in it.

Hmmm, course pour cement over pex all the time, Ultra fin and staple up all use pex...

60
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water filter
« on: January 28, 2020, 07:26:27 AM »
A lot of people use Rusco’s. Personally all I have on mine is a wye strainer, which I’ve never found anything in it.

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