Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Pages: [1]
1
Central Boiler / My OWB installation - self install
« on: December 15, 2011, 03:26:00 PM »
Well folks, at last I have taken the time to upload the photos and document my installation. Hope you enjoy!
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=28;asc;nw
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=28;asc;nw
2
Electronics / Single Thermostat for wood boiler and furnace
« on: November 23, 2011, 08:32:11 AM »
So, I researched this subject like crazy on this forum and across the web and never found an answer that I was satisfied with, so last night I tried what I am about to share and it appears to work to my satisfaction.
System Requirements:
1) 2 stage thermostat. A heat pump thermostat is not a 2 stage thermostat. What I have is an Ecobee EB-STAT-02, so it is the onlly one I have tried this with, but I am sure other manufacturers have programmable digital thermostats that will work as well. The Honeywell IAQ and Prestige are examples.
2) 3-way zone valve
3) 120VAC to 24VAC 40VA step down transformer. This can be a Hard-Wired type, or a Plug-In type.
INSTALLATION STEPS
(i will upload a drawing later)
1) Install 3-way zone valve between Input and output of Water/Air heat exchanger as follows.
A) Hot from boiler (or DHWHX out) to 3-way zone valve COMMON.
B) 3-way Zone Valve NC (Normally Closed) to Water/Air Heat Exchanger IN.
C) 3-way Zone Valve NO (Normally Open) to one side of plumbing Tee.
D) Water/Air Heat Exchanger OUT to second side of plumbing Tee.
E) Third side of plumbing Tee RETURN to Boiler.
2) Electrical Hookup
A) 24VAC terminal 1 to 3-way Zone Valve terminal TH
B) 24VAC terminal 2 to Thermostat RH. (If there is a jumper on thermostat between RH and RC leave it in place)
C) 3-way Zone Valve terminal TR to Thermostat terminal W1 (may be labeled W O/B). If this is an existing installation your furnace W terminal is probably connected here. Move it to Thermostat terminal W2.
D) If you haven't already done so in (C) above, connect Furnace terminal W to Thermostat terminal W2.
That should do it. The way this is going to work is:
Thermostat will call for heat, energizing the solenoid in the 3-way zone valve thus allowing hot water to flow through heat exchanger and turning on the furnace fan. If after a preset amount of time (my thermostat seems to be set for about 10 minutes) if the room temp has not risen sufficiently the furnace burner will start. My thermostat also keeps the zone valve open so the boiler is still helping to heat. I haven't tried this in practice yet, but I have to believe that with the water temp being 165 or so, the likelyhood of the furnace burner lighting is small.
By the way, if your thermostat is already controlling and wired for one of the new 2 stage furnaces you are just going to have to try this or ask an HVAC professional.
System Requirements:
1) 2 stage thermostat. A heat pump thermostat is not a 2 stage thermostat. What I have is an Ecobee EB-STAT-02, so it is the onlly one I have tried this with, but I am sure other manufacturers have programmable digital thermostats that will work as well. The Honeywell IAQ and Prestige are examples.
2) 3-way zone valve
3) 120VAC to 24VAC 40VA step down transformer. This can be a Hard-Wired type, or a Plug-In type.
INSTALLATION STEPS
(i will upload a drawing later)
1) Install 3-way zone valve between Input and output of Water/Air heat exchanger as follows.
A) Hot from boiler (or DHWHX out) to 3-way zone valve COMMON.
B) 3-way Zone Valve NC (Normally Closed) to Water/Air Heat Exchanger IN.
C) 3-way Zone Valve NO (Normally Open) to one side of plumbing Tee.
D) Water/Air Heat Exchanger OUT to second side of plumbing Tee.
E) Third side of plumbing Tee RETURN to Boiler.
2) Electrical Hookup
A) 24VAC terminal 1 to 3-way Zone Valve terminal TH
B) 24VAC terminal 2 to Thermostat RH. (If there is a jumper on thermostat between RH and RC leave it in place)
C) 3-way Zone Valve terminal TR to Thermostat terminal W1 (may be labeled W O/B). If this is an existing installation your furnace W terminal is probably connected here. Move it to Thermostat terminal W2.
D) If you haven't already done so in (C) above, connect Furnace terminal W to Thermostat terminal W2.
That should do it. The way this is going to work is:
Thermostat will call for heat, energizing the solenoid in the 3-way zone valve thus allowing hot water to flow through heat exchanger and turning on the furnace fan. If after a preset amount of time (my thermostat seems to be set for about 10 minutes) if the room temp has not risen sufficiently the furnace burner will start. My thermostat also keeps the zone valve open so the boiler is still helping to heat. I haven't tried this in practice yet, but I have to believe that with the water temp being 165 or so, the likelyhood of the furnace burner lighting is small.
By the way, if your thermostat is already controlling and wired for one of the new 2 stage furnaces you are just going to have to try this or ask an HVAC professional.
3
Plumbing / Insulate Thermopex that exits ground?
« on: October 15, 2011, 06:54:19 AM »
In a previous topic we discussed how deep to bury my Thermopex. Despite the fact that the CB instructions plainly state that 8-12 inched deep is adequate, I decided to go below my frost line as suggested for the following reason.
If for whatever reason the boiler is not running, but the Thermopex has liquid in it, and a hard freeze comes along, I did not want to risk the Thermopex bursting.
So here is my dilema. What to do about the Thermopex as it exits the trench vertically to the boiler which naturally passes through the freeze zone.
Do I insulate the vertical run of Thermopex?
If so, with what, and how much insulation is enough?
If not, why not.
Thanks
If for whatever reason the boiler is not running, but the Thermopex has liquid in it, and a hard freeze comes along, I did not want to risk the Thermopex bursting.
So here is my dilema. What to do about the Thermopex as it exits the trench vertically to the boiler which naturally passes through the freeze zone.
Do I insulate the vertical run of Thermopex?
If so, with what, and how much insulation is enough?
If not, why not.
Thanks
4
Electronics / Central Boiler Indoor Water Temperature Indicator
« on: October 06, 2011, 11:13:53 AM »
Could anyone tell me how useful it would be to install one of the Central Boiler Indoor Water Temperature Indicator Kits? If I should install one them I would like to do so before I get my trench back filled. Also, why install at boiler rather than as soon as pex enters house?
Thanks
Thanks
5
Plumbing / Sidearm vs. Plate heat exchanger for DHW
« on: September 17, 2011, 01:58:14 PM »
When I purchased my used CL5036 it came with a sidearm heat exchanger. It is made from one of the copper kits you assemble your self.
As I started reading more about using this, it was obviously way too long for the height of my water heater.
So today I started to disassemble it. I cut the outer pipe, heated up the inner and slipped the end fitting off the inner pipe. In trying to remove the piece of 1.5 inch pipe I could not put enough heat into it with my propane torch so after heating and heating I gave up and went to the neighbor who has an acetylene torch. However I had apparently oxidized the solder to the point that even with all the heat his torch could put in I could not get the fitting off.
So, now I have to decide whether to try and find a new end fitting, and reassemble what I have, buy a new kit for $75 from my local CB dealer, buy a preassembled sidearm or change to a brazed plate exchanger.
Not sure where to buy a new end fitting or how much it would cost.
If I buy a new sidearm it is likely to be off of ebay, where I can get it preassembled, with 7 smaller diameter inner pipes inside a 1.5" outer pipe for $100 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-Arm-Heat-Exchanger-Outdoor-Furnace-Boiler-Stove-/160508275258?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f09ea3a
If I switch to a plate exchanger I am eying this which is also on ebay for $117 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER-10P-/390305315870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae0027c1e
or this for $118
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brazed-10-Plate-Heat-Exchanger-Outdoor-Wood-Furnace-/160538672859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2560d9bedb
Which is the better way to go?
If I use a plate exchanger do I need a recirulating pump?
Looking forward to your replies.
As I started reading more about using this, it was obviously way too long for the height of my water heater.
So today I started to disassemble it. I cut the outer pipe, heated up the inner and slipped the end fitting off the inner pipe. In trying to remove the piece of 1.5 inch pipe I could not put enough heat into it with my propane torch so after heating and heating I gave up and went to the neighbor who has an acetylene torch. However I had apparently oxidized the solder to the point that even with all the heat his torch could put in I could not get the fitting off.
So, now I have to decide whether to try and find a new end fitting, and reassemble what I have, buy a new kit for $75 from my local CB dealer, buy a preassembled sidearm or change to a brazed plate exchanger.
Not sure where to buy a new end fitting or how much it would cost.
If I buy a new sidearm it is likely to be off of ebay, where I can get it preassembled, with 7 smaller diameter inner pipes inside a 1.5" outer pipe for $100 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-Arm-Heat-Exchanger-Outdoor-Furnace-Boiler-Stove-/160508275258?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f09ea3a
If I switch to a plate exchanger I am eying this which is also on ebay for $117 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER-10P-/390305315870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae0027c1e
or this for $118
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brazed-10-Plate-Heat-Exchanger-Outdoor-Wood-Furnace-/160538672859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2560d9bedb
Which is the better way to go?
If I use a plate exchanger do I need a recirulating pump?
Looking forward to your replies.
6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / System Design using CL-5036
« on: September 03, 2011, 09:42:52 AM »
So I am coming up with all sorts of things to do with the 180 degree water my CL-5036 is going to produce, but maybe I am going a bit overboard.
Can anyone tell me how many BTUs I am going to be able to extract from my 5036 after running 75 feet to the house in ThermoPEX?
For what its worth, here is what I have in mind.
1" ThermoPEX into basement where it runs through some kind of 1" manifold where it connects to sidearm exchanger on DHWH, and then 100k BTU heat exchanger in my forced air furnace. Then returns to boiler.
As for the manifold, I would expect to take 1/2" taps to the following, I expect I will need to use pumps on each tap run.
1) Garage radiant heat
2) Radiant pex for my wifes seed starting station in basement
3) Radiant pex in front sidewalk 3' x 45'
I am adding a second pump and Thermopex run but in goes away from the house to the chicken coop and eventually to a greenhouse.
Am I expecting too much out of this?
Can anyone tell me how many BTUs I am going to be able to extract from my 5036 after running 75 feet to the house in ThermoPEX?
For what its worth, here is what I have in mind.
1" ThermoPEX into basement where it runs through some kind of 1" manifold where it connects to sidearm exchanger on DHWH, and then 100k BTU heat exchanger in my forced air furnace. Then returns to boiler.
As for the manifold, I would expect to take 1/2" taps to the following, I expect I will need to use pumps on each tap run.
1) Garage radiant heat
2) Radiant pex for my wifes seed starting station in basement
3) Radiant pex in front sidewalk 3' x 45'
I am adding a second pump and Thermopex run but in goes away from the house to the chicken coop and eventually to a greenhouse.
Am I expecting too much out of this?
7
Plumbing / Adding second pump kit to CL5036
« on: September 02, 2011, 09:56:16 PM »
Went to my local dealer today and purchased the complete kit for installing a second pump to my CL5036.
Should I use Teflon tape or Pipe Dope on all the pipe threads?
Should I use Teflon tape or Pipe Dope on all the pipe threads?
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Adding water from inside house
« on: September 01, 2011, 01:00:34 PM »
I did a search and did not find this subject posted so, what do I need to do so that I can fill and/or top off the water in my boiler from inside house so I don't have to drag a hose outside in the winter. Thanks!
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Installing Heat Exchanger in Upflow Plenum
« on: September 01, 2011, 12:56:54 PM »
I have a forced air upflow furnace, Does it matter whether the heat exchanger from my boiler goes above or below the A/C coil in my plenum?
10
Central Boiler / Spark Arrestor Chimney Cap
« on: August 30, 2011, 11:02:28 AM »
So I went to my local CB dealer yesterday. While talking with him I brought up the subject of the chimney cap. He said most of his customers don't use one because they cause the chimney to plug.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
11
Central Boiler / Newbie Needs Info
« on: August 28, 2011, 04:09:31 PM »
Hello,
I just purchased a 5 year old CL-5036. It included 3 heat exchangers, and a tube in tube domestic hot water exchanger. It came with 8 feet of chimney. The outside of the chimney will clean up nicely, but the inner pipe is badly deteriorated at the bottoms. Is there any way I can repair these, such as get a new inner pipe?
It came with a single pump. I think I see a plug that I could remove to add a second pump but if so, I am not sure where to find the plugged return hole and don't want to just start digging away at the insulation till I find it. Anyone got a photo with 2 pumps installed, or better yet a dimensioned drawing?
Also how deep does insulated pex need to be buried and how does one normally bring it into a basement?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I just purchased a 5 year old CL-5036. It included 3 heat exchangers, and a tube in tube domestic hot water exchanger. It came with 8 feet of chimney. The outside of the chimney will clean up nicely, but the inner pipe is badly deteriorated at the bottoms. Is there any way I can repair these, such as get a new inner pipe?
It came with a single pump. I think I see a plug that I could remove to add a second pump but if so, I am not sure where to find the plugged return hole and don't want to just start digging away at the insulation till I find it. Anyone got a photo with 2 pumps installed, or better yet a dimensioned drawing?
Also how deep does insulated pex need to be buried and how does one normally bring it into a basement?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Pages: [1]