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Messages - juddspaintballs

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Plumbing / Re: Underground piping
« on: August 29, 2023, 07:37:11 PM »
OK, I'm getting 1" Thermopex from a local dealer.  $1564 for 100' after taxes.  That seems like more than I've paid in the past, but who knows what prices have done ever since the craziness of the past 3 years. 

Does 1" Thermopex use regular 1" PEX fittings?  Can I use 1" Sharkbites or 1" cinch rings on regular 1" fittings or is it a special size and need different fittings? 

Plumbing / Re: Underground piping
« on: April 10, 2023, 08:33:21 PM »
I realize it would be resting on the bottom, but the actual amount of contact is minimal and the heat transfer from PEX through PVC and into the ground wouldn't be a ton. 

I'll probably just wind up using Thermopex so I can get it locally.  I'll be fine using the regular 1" stuff.  I don't have a need for high BTU transfer, just maintaining a radiant slab in a well-insulated house. 

Plumbing / Re: Underground piping
« on: April 09, 2023, 04:55:58 PM »
Slow in here

Plumbing / Underground piping
« on: April 01, 2023, 08:31:48 PM »
I typically use Thermopex or similar for my underground piping.  I know all of the benefits of it.  I've done 4 installations with that type of pipe and one where I closed-cell spray foamed the PEX inside of plastic sheeting which also worked quite well. 

I'm about to build a house.  My retired builder friend suggested just running PVC in the ground and pulling my PEX through for the underground piping.  Am I crazy for considering this?  The air gap in there is insulation enough and as long as the PVC doesn't break, it should stay dry. 

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: conventional OWB
« on: December 29, 2021, 07:18:02 PM »
Maybe by the time your OWB is finished, global warming will have caught up and we won't need a OWB for heat anymore. 

Plumbing / Re: Manifold Ciculation Pump Stopped Working
« on: June 11, 2020, 02:20:00 PM »
If power going out is what's making it get stuck, you could plug in a computer UPS to power it for the brief power flickers. 

General Discussion / Re: Drill bits
« on: May 20, 2020, 10:10:28 PM »
Drill slow, use a good drilling oil.  Norseman makes a good bit, especially if you use the slow and lubed approach.  They should last a long time.  If you're really drilling high carbon steel, a cobalt bit will help, but it can still be done at a low speed with lube with a standard quality HSS bit. 

Drill bits:

Cutting oil:

This chart will work up to 1/2" for twist drills. 

Equipment / Battery chainsaw
« on: April 21, 2020, 04:43:43 PM »
I decided to try out a Milwaukee M18 chainsaw.  It uses a 16" narrow kerf chain.  I had already sawed through two bullets in another tree I cut down before this video.  The battery was about halfway used up at this point, too.  Some nice fresh red oak.  It's not a professional saw, but it's a solid performer in the "farm" style saws.  I like it.


Heatmor / Re: 200CSS relief vent rubber ball
« on: April 20, 2020, 03:57:05 PM »
On mine, the top of the tank has a 1" or so pipe that goes vertical through the roof.  It has a weighted rubber ball on it.  It allows the water jacket/tank to pressurize up to about 2 PSI max.  If there's more pressure or a boil over, the pressure or water vents out of the pipe by lifting the ball.  It's simple

I don't know how the vent works on my dad's newer version Heatmor.  I'd copy it if I knew. 

I don't know how to replace the weighted ball on mine, either.  I still have the ball, but not the weight.  I don't know how heavy that weight was, either. 

Heatmor / 200CSS relief vent rubber ball
« on: April 18, 2020, 08:59:47 PM »
I was draining my boiler today and after the water started flowing out, I remembered to remove the rubber ball that sits on top for the relief vent.  When I moved it, the vacuum broke and water came out faster, but the metal rod that hung from the ball (weight) was missing.  I don't think it's very important, but...I would like it to be as designed or better.  My dad's newer version of the 200CSS has a candy cane hook where the relief ball is on mine.  Is there a special vent in there or is it just a 180 degree bend in tubing that I could replicate on my own boiler? 

PS: draining the boiler to move it to my parents farm to heat a greenhouse starting next season.  I'll be selling this house soon and moving over there, too. 

Site Suggestions / Re: What happened to the site?
« on: March 27, 2020, 09:56:26 PM »
Musta caught the corona virus

Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 09, 2020, 05:39:19 PM »
No room.

Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 08, 2020, 05:49:30 PM »
It appears I have unlimited hot water, now.

Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 06, 2020, 12:06:39 PM »
I'll explain the pictures.  The flat plate had to mount horizontally because of the space I had. 

Boiler water comes in the right side of the flat plate and out the left side.  I have a bypass valve setup there just in case.  Cold domestic water comes in the left side and out the right side.  There's also a mixing valve on the hot output of the water heater so it doesn't come out as hot.  Boiler water that exits the flat plate goes to the water/air heat exchanger in the furnace and then back to the boiler.  I fired the boiler back up after this, so I'll know if I get hot water from the flat plate or not in a couple hours.

Plumbing / Re: Flat plate and sidearm water heater heat exchangers
« on: February 04, 2020, 08:09:41 PM »
Right now it's about 65 degrees going into the water heater.  After the flat plate, I hope it'll be nice and hot. 

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