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Author Topic: Hot water Heater luke warm  (Read 25034 times)

CountryBoyJohn

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2014, 05:34:01 PM »

Right. I agree for this configuration. But, this configuration is not how to best use a plate. All you need to do with the plate is plumb your cold supply into the plate then out of the plate into the water heater. Done. Simple. Unlimited hot water.
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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #16 on: December 18, 2014, 03:15:36 AM »

Exactly, but that's not how it's plumbed, if the installer has done a hundred of them this way, then the installer has 100 dissatisfied customers, Kommandokenny, what Countryboy is saying is that the incoming water line on the domestic side needs to go to the heat exchanger first then out of the exchanger and into the tank, don't forget the tee on the cold before the plate to your mixing valve.
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2014, 06:07:10 AM »

Thanks guys!
 From your input and my "truck-driving physics" , I believe the pump is the answer.
It is not possible to heat the water in the tank if it is not moving into the tank constantly??

Having said that,there may be a better way to plumb it, without the use of a pump.

The way it is set up now is pretty much the same as if the well water went into the exchanger directly.
It just takes a detour into the bottom of the tank first?

Is anyone on the forum using a pump.??

KK


 
« Last Edit: December 19, 2014, 08:29:15 AM by kommandokenny »
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Lineman

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2014, 06:36:30 AM »

I have 20 plate 5"x12 exchanger no cir pump no mixing water out of faucet unlimited at138 deg. Works great for my set up would use thermo mixing value if u have small children
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2014, 06:56:33 AM »

Also, after talking with Bill, I figured out why the water in the line to the top of the HWT is just warm. :'(
There maybe an air lock or bubble preventing the siphon action from working?????????
Would the relief valve on the top of the HWT alleviate this??
Gonna give it a go  :o

KK
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #20 on: December 18, 2014, 07:01:37 AM »

I have 20 plate 5"x12 exchanger no cir pump no mixing water out of faucet unlimited at138 deg. Works great for my set up would use thermo mixing value if u have small children

I don't think the plates, or the lack of,, is my issue.
Is your line going from the exchanger to the HWT hot, or just warm??
Does it go in the bottom or top of the tank??

Thanks
KK
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JDfarmer

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #21 on: December 18, 2014, 07:28:44 AM »

I think your exchanger is way too small; I don't like these flat plates. They clog up too easily too.  I have a side arm on my 85ga water tank, and it's making our DHW 170F+. We had to add a mixing valve to reduce the domestic water temp to 120-130ish because it was boiling hot. I think if you change the water to water exchanger that is larger, things will improve immediately.
I'll send the pic of mine; but it's from nature comfort.
 
« Last Edit: December 18, 2014, 07:44:21 AM by JDfarmer »
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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #22 on: December 18, 2014, 07:45:07 AM »

here is what you want.
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CountryBoyJohn

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #23 on: December 18, 2014, 10:22:42 AM »

A couple things about these last few posts. Plate exchangers are NOT designed to thermosiphon. Increasing number of plates will not help. Your water heater is set up in a manner for using a side arm, not a plate. If you want to keep your plumbing as it is now, you will need to add a pump. If you want to use the plate without a pump, you need to adjust your plumbing like me and Slim stated above.

Clogging plates CAN be a problem with extremely hard water. But, they can be cleaned easily as well. A plate exchanger plumbed properly will provide unlimited hot water. A side arm will thermosiphon without a pump, but it has a longer recovery period. High use situations normally call for a plate.

If I were in your shoes, I would keep the plate and redo the plumbing according to the posts above. This way you won't need another pump to maintain and worry about.
« Last Edit: December 18, 2014, 10:24:41 AM by CountryBoyJohn »
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #24 on: December 18, 2014, 11:07:01 AM »

Ok will keep the re-plumbing and, or, a small pump on the burner for next summer. :thumbup:

I still don't get why my guy went through all the extra plumbing,,, getting rid of my anode  etc,,, to do it wrong??
[We dropped a new anode in the tank loose]

Had nothing but positive feedback about him.
 I helped a bit with the install and he had all the answers.
Can't wait to show him the posts after he said he plumbed it right when I questioned him.

This is a great forum with lots of great ideas and help. :thumbup:
KK
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #25 on: December 18, 2014, 11:17:02 AM »

Exactly, but that's not how it's plumbed, if the installer has done a hundred of them this way, then the installer has 100 dissatisfied customers, Kommandokenny, what Countryboy is saying is that the incoming water line on the domestic side needs to go to the heat exchanger first then out of the exchanger and into the tank, don't forget the tee on the cold before the plate to your mixing valve.

The way it is plumbed now, the well water goes to the mixing valve AND  the bottom of the tank,,, and is still cold well water entering the exchanger ,via the bottom of the HWT
I'm no expert of course, but is this not the same thing.
Don't get cheesed, I don't quite get it, is all :bash:

KK
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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #26 on: December 21, 2014, 12:05:03 PM »

Exactly, but that's not how it's plumbed, if the installer has done a hundred of them this way, then the installer has 100 dissatisfied customers, Kommandokenny, what Countryboy is saying is that the incoming water line on the domestic side needs to go to the heat exchanger first then out of the exchanger and into the tank, don't forget the tee on the cold before the plate to your mixing valve.

Re-plumbed,,, and it's worse.
Water is about 10% cooler plumbed this way .
It comes into the exchanger and turns the plate exchanger cold .
The outgoing pipe below is not hot at all,, barely warm .

Guess that's why the installer plumbed it in through the bottom,, to pick up a bit of residual heat from the tank, before going to the exchanger??

No way the exchanger can keep up.
Violent temp change in the plate exchanger can't be good either?



Thanks I give :bash:

KK



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kommandokenny

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #27 on: December 21, 2014, 06:18:05 PM »



If I were in your shoes, I would keep the plate and redo the plumbing according to the posts above. This way you won't need another pump to maintain and worry about.

Nope worse
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CountryBoyJohn

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #28 on: December 21, 2014, 06:31:09 PM »

Ok. Probably should've asked this first, but what is your pump setup? We need the model, size, and head loss. You may not have enough flow through your stove side of the exchanger.

Hang in there. We can get this figured out.
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Hot water Heater luke warm
« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2014, 06:34:26 PM »

The water exiting to the bottom of the hx to the bottom of the tank should be as hot or close to as hot as the boiler line is when the boiler line enters the hx. If the water entering the hx on the boiler side is entering hot and leaving hot and the water entering the hx on the domestic side is entering cold and leaving only luke warm when you are running a faucet in the house then this means that your hx is not exchanging the heat for some reason. Do you have hard water? Hx could be plugged up on domestic side but I would expect to see difference in water pressure if you only run cold water or you only run hot water in the house.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2014, 09:09:03 PM by hondaracer2oo4 »
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