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[kommandokenny]

I think your 10 plate right now is plugged up with hard water deposits and that is why you aren't getting any hot water even after your reconfig. I would take it off and clean it out. Also with all of the specs you provided you will be fine with the pump you have.

It's,,still,, not plugged .

It acted this way from day 1.
New out of the box .
Had luke warm water all last winter, thought it was normal.
Water temp in both out bound lines drops as soon as I open a faucet.
I thought we were all in agreement that the T joints were the problem ?
Poor circulation through the HWT circuit.
I'll pull it down next mild spell [May ] and eat crow if it's plugged!!

Cheers
KK


 

[willieG]

I know nothing of these types of exchangers but lets take a hypothetical approach for a min.

lets say the tees in the line and the 3/4 pex  to the plate exchanger are causing some low flow issue.  let us say for fun only 2 gpm are going through the OWB side of your exchanger...now  with your plate exchanger hooked directly to the  well delivering water, lets say it is pushing 5 gpm through the plate..now you have stated you think the OWB side is cooling about 10 degree so  2 gpm  is about 17 pounds of water and it cools 10 degrees  so the water is giving up 170 btu per min.

now, if you are pushing 5 gpm through the cold side that would be about 43 pounds a min...divide that 170 btu by the 43 pounds of water=about  4 degrees (for easy figuring) and if we multipliled that 170 by 60 minutes that would be 10,200 btu per hour and I think that is what this exchanger is rated at (or close)

so the water on the cold side would only be heating up 4 degrees and not likely noticeable by the human touch

if the exchanger was hooked up like it was originally and working properly the water moving up the pipe would be noticeably hotter to the touch (like i said I am not familiar with these exchangers and am not sure if it would be as hot as the OWB water like a side arm  gets or not) all those folks who use a plate exchanger can verify what temps you could expect

[kommandokenny]

Thanks Bill.
thats a lotta math!!
Merry xmas everyone.

The way it was hooked up originaly, was better.[see pics page 1]
The D.W. from the plate going into the top of the HWT was always warm [not hot].
It entered the top of the tank very slow.thus the x plate stayed hot.

Now,,, with the water pushing through the plate down at 40psi ,the exchanger can only heat a tiny bit of water before it goes cold.
Be it a plugged xchanger, or no flow, on the boiler side,it would have the same effect.

Both ways of plumbing the exchanger are unacceptable, with the separate circuit off the main 1 inch line.

Looking for a small low, low, flo inline pump to push Dwater up through the exchanger into the top of the tank.
With it circulating whithin the HWT, it will eventually get hot.
If it works I probably won't replumb the whole thing till the exchanger plugs up [for real ]

KK

[slimjim]

Please let me get this straight, your main circ goes into a tee, one side goes to your heat and the other goes to the domestic plate exchanger, if this is so then the first thing is to force water to the plate by installing a mono-flow tee instead of the regular tee or another circ on that loop, next would be to change the plumbing on the tank so that the cold domestic is forced through the plate before the tank.

[kommandokenny]

Please let me get this straight, your main circ goes into a tee, one side goes to your heat and the other goes to the domestic plate exchanger, if this is so then the first thing is to force water to the plate by installing a mono-flow tee instead of the regular tee or another circ on that loop, next would be to change the plumbing on the tank so that the cold domestic is forced through the plate before the tank.

No Slim, it is not plumbed that way see text below:

There is a loop between the boiler and my fffurnace in 1 inch pex red delivery and blu return to boiler.













Now,, teed into the red 1 inch go line, is a 3/4 inch, red go line to the plate hwt .pictured.
Now, teed into the the blu 1 inch return line is a 3/4 inch pex line returning from the plate hwt
this does not work, and no matter how the plate is plumbed see the whole post page one
it still does not work ....and the x plate is still not plugged
It's hard to trouble shoot this from pictures and words but all you guys have been fantastic!!!


I t needs to be torn down and reblumbed in a loop.See Ched Bulls post, this is what I'm going to do.
There are lots of quick fixes, from restricting flow on main 1 inch line to fffurnace, or adding pumps below the plate exchanger, or what you say. 
I'm going to  do it the way all the companies +Ched Bull  and a few other posters say ,,,,,,, in 1 loop
Cheers
kk

[Ill Named]

FWIW this is my set up. Plate and a side arm. Over kill? Probably. I never run out of hot water and it's bloody hot...
10 Plate on the water into the tank and a side arm on the side of the tank to keep the water hot in there when not in use. Many people will tell you that the side arm is not needed when using a plate, but I'll go a solid 14 hours before using hot water again in a day and was a little concerned about the water in the tank cooling off when not in use.

[kommandokenny]

Wow,!!!! give me overkill anyday,, that is fantastic ---brilliant.

KK

[slimjim]

There is one thing that I do not like with your install Ill Named, Your pressure relief valve should be before the ball valve, nearest the tank, if somebody were to close off the valves and the water heater came on, you have a pressure bomb there in your basement, at the very least remove the handles on the valves and hang them on the piping so they do not get inadvertently shut off!

[Chas]

Good catch Slimjim. Being a licensed plumber, that is the 1st thing I spotted too. They make a relief valve with a long stem so you are actually getting it inside the tank and getting actual tank temp, (but that wouldn't work if it were going through a valve.)

[Ill Named]

There is one thing that I do not like with your install Ill Named, Your pressure relief valve should be before the ball valve, nearest the tank, if somebody were to close off the valves and the water heater came on, you have a pressure bomb there in your basement, at the very least remove the handles on the valves and hang them on the piping so they do not get inadvertently shut off!

Trust me bud. I know all about that. I realized it after I got it all installed and set up and I wasn't about to change it all out just for that. There is a really simple solution to it that I have done. Those are lockable jamesbury valves. I have a lock installed on the top one. Boom, done, catastrophe adverted. 

[kommandokenny]

Update on my DHW heater:
We switched out the plate for a shnazzy S.S. sidearm exchanger.... [N/C]
Holy hot batman !!!!!
The plate x was not plugged,,but noticed a slight restriction blowing through the domestic side.
My "Wood master" buddy said it still should of worked anyway.
I now no why they put the mixing valve on these things .

We are switching the upper elbo to an elbo with a valve in it this afternoon.
Now we got free heat and hot water........"what a country"

Going for another shower now

[Roger2561]

Glad you got it figured out.  More importantly, you have hot water.  Enjoy it.  Roger

[kommandokenny]

Yep, I thank everyone for their input
I learn a bit on here everyday!!

kk

[willieG]

Yep, I thank everyone for their input
I learn a bit on here everyday!!

kk

Kenny the 50 million winning ticket was sold in north bay area.....you buying wood next year?

[kommandokenny]

Nope, no luck Bill
 
Still won't be buyin$ though...
Will be cutting as soon as I can get into the woods .
Got some stuff down and bucked, but cant get in cause of the snow![ 3ft+]

cheers

kk