Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Heatmor => Topic started by: tinfoilhat2020 on November 23, 2015, 05:43:08 PM
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How the hek do u get this restrictor rube off??? I read the manual and that didn't help...do u pry it off from inside under the crates???????
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It's been so long, I can't remember. That sounds about right, though.
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How the hek do u get this restrictor rube off??? I read the manual and that didn't help...do u pry it off from inside under the crates???????
I looked at mine . Im only guessing but it looks like they silicon ed it in there . remove front fan take off first grate put a pipe in the tube that just fits and tap it with hammer should slide out . This only a guess . I looked at mine before it was fired . It had black silicone between the 2 size of pipe .
Heat550
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i felt that bead of caulk when i stuck my hand in there....i will try that when i get home and see how it goes. i think having more air through the grates will be better. Front blower will push majority of the air thru the grates and the back blower only pushes gases down back into the fire
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A little off topic, but in that same area of the boil as the tube, does your boiler have a cavity between the fire box and the outer plate that the fan housing bolts to? On my 200 if I remove the fan and stick my arm in the hole the fan came out of, there is a maybe 3" deep cavity. Last fall this was probably a 1/4 full of creosote. Am wondering if holding ash/creosote in this area could rust it out quicker? I don't see any easy way to clean it out, it was such a bad angle trying to bend my arm in the right direction to stick it in there and a get a scoop of creosote, plus some of it was hard so had a chunk of wood or screw driver trying to chisel it out, wasn't a fun project.
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Yeah I seen the same cavity....I was trying to brainstorm on how to effectively clean it. Lol
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Yeah I seen the same cavity....I was trying to brainstorm on how to effectively clean it. Lol
I would figure out how it got in there . Did it back flow from ash box ? mine was always dry on old 200css .
try electric Heat gun warm it up mop it out . I would not use a lp torch .
Heat550
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On mine it appears that creosote builts up in the fan area just like it does in the rest of the firebox. I don't know if what was in the bottom of the cavity is from what falls off of the fan and fan tube or if it builds there naturally.
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i have no build up in either from nor rear fan area....tho my 400 was made just this year....maybe they changed something???
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My 200 is 2 or 3 years old, not sure if they would have changed something in that short of time or not. Is there any rhyme or reason as to where or how creosote builds up, such as by an air leek? How dry is your wood? Wood I'm using (birch) was cut down 2 years ago, but not cut up into stove length till this fall, only time I split it is if I doesn't fit through the door opening. Plus once in awhile trees that were just cut this fall mix in, I'm guessing the main reason for my creosote buildup is wet wood.
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How full do you load the firebox? I get much cleaner and longer burns (for the amount of wood used) if I keep the firebox less than half full. I often keep it at 1/3 full and centered over the grates. I can run about 12 hours like that and I have very little creosote. My theory is that the fire gets airspace inside of the firebox to burn nice and hot and keeps the creosote down quite a bit.
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Get a moisture meter for your wood habor fieght has pretty cheap its shocker how wet wood really is I have dead standing reading 40% its got to be the wood. I'm only guessing.
Heat550
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This time of year with lows in the 20s and highs around 40 I keep the firebox pretty empty, just incase the flapper door does decide to stick open it will be that much less wood to burn out of control. I've been trying to load the wood in a U shape. put the coals/unburned stuff in the middle and stack the fresh load of wood on each side of it going up the sides a little ways. My theory was that then the flame could shoot strait up and heat up the metal of the firebox rather than needing to burn through the wood, or around it. Then as the old coals/wood that was over the grates burned up in theory the side round wood would roll into the grate area. Just something trying the past few days.
I did stick last years wood with a tester from the neighbors, can't recall what it was, maybe in the 20's. What is moisture content should a person shoot for?
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My 200 is 2 or 3 years old, not sure if they would have changed something in that short of time or not. Is there any rhyme or reason as to where or how creosote builds up, such as by an air leek? How dry is your wood? Wood I'm using (birch) was cut down 2 years ago, but not cut up into stove length till this fall, only time I split it is if I doesn't fit through the door opening. Plus once in awhile trees that were just cut this fall mix in, I'm guessing the main reason for my creosote buildup is wet wood.
gotta split it at least, leaving it in big pile only lets dry whats on the surface of the pile
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A little off topic, but in that same area of the boil as the tube, does your boiler have a cavity between the fire box and the outer plate that the fan housing bolts to? On my 200 if I remove the fan and stick my arm in the hole the fan came out of, there is a maybe 3" deep cavity. Last fall this was probably a 1/4 full of creosote. Am wondering if holding ash/creosote in this area could rust it out quicker? I don't see any easy way to clean it out, it was such a bad angle trying to bend my arm in the right direction to stick it in there and a get a scoop of creosote, plus some of it was hard so had a chunk of wood or screw driver trying to chisel it out, wasn't a fun project.
I was looking at 400 tonight and I had 200 also . This only one more guess on all your creosote by fan . I may be wrong but . if the ashes were full and hole going from fan to ash pan was plugged it make lots of creosote . and if it was dripping down in to ash pan in front . the creosote would follow down and find that hole and run right back in the fan hole . ( it does this when fast off )
My old 200 only did it once when I left ashes build up to much in warmer weather . Myself I have found out yes the hard way . if your burning any kind of wetter wood you need keep stove ashes cleaned out , it takes all the draft stove has to burn off the steam . and yes in the perfect world wood all dry to 20 % In the real world your going to need to burn a bit of wet wood when your out of dry sometimes . at less this rule apply s to my 200css Im only on my 2nd week on 400 dcss But Its acting the same
I put in a piece of wetter oak in tonight steam 10 mins and back just little smoke . another thing I do is my ashes never get up to the level of fan inlet hole in ash box . this really isn't stressed enough in Manuel. I check that hole every time I take ashes out .
you get down there with head lamp you can see it easy . ( 150 lum head lamp 12.97 walmart ) keeping that fan hole clear is the difference between a serious heating monster . and a creosote mess . and yes clean stove you'll burn more wood :) Ok I guess I carried on about that enough :) Hope info helps . I was heating 6600 sq ft with my old 200 css I was running it as fine tuned heating machine :) A.K.A: Dragon 1 :thumbup:
Heat550
On the splitting wood note yes I split all my wood and wetter smaller dryer bigger . hour meter on splitter just clicked to 600 hours
it was put in action in about 2003 . :thumbup:
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anyone one here just take that restrictor tube out?????? I have been contemplating it but havent pulled the trigger yet. Also, Heat i 100% agree about keeping that hole free and clear of build up. I empty ashes every saturday or every other saturday and i also talk my air gun and blow whole out. I also stack my wood about 8 inches in front on the air box in front so it never get clogged and the ashes dont fall thru and plug the inlet hole up under the grates
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Only thing scare me about Taking it out is what is it going to do at -20f because drafting changes alot at colder temps. The old 200 hole in ash box was smaller then restricted hole in new 400 and that old 200 would get pretty crazy. ( draw pretty hard ) enough to make 1/8 steel 4 foot extention turn blue on one side. Old extensions where alot thicker then stainless ones of today.
That was polar vortex of 2014 . I don't know if these thin stainless extensions are up for polar vortex abuse. guess I'll find out.
Heat550
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Ok burning 1/2 dry .
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nice heat.....SO i took my restrictor tube out this morning.....holy crap its a hole different kinda fire!!!! still gets plenty of air out of the air box, but much much more from under the grates....it took off like a rocket. Seemed to be getting much more air to the back of the firebox, i only watched it for about 5 min before i took off for work. I will let you know how it works out.....restrictor tube popped out real easy...i just pushed it out with a long screwdriver.....will be simple to pop back in if i need too
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heat, what kind of burn times have you been seeing??? i know you have much more of a load on your stove that i do on mine....just curious????
only reason i tried taking the restrictor tube out is i wasnt getting much air to that back of the firebox at all....i clean out ash weekly and also check tube for build up. also i check and clean grates almost daily.
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heat, what kind of burn times have you been seeing??? i know you have much more of a load on your stove that i do on mine....just curious????
only reason i tried taking the restrictor tube out is i wasnt getting much air to that back of the firebox at all....i clean out ash weekly and also check tube for build up. also i check and clean grates almost daily.
My burn times are about 12 hours with wheel barrow of wood . I can measure it closer . but these warm temps its all over the place .
If I burn it heavy Im wasting wood . If I fill it go easy a day 24 hours . seems to me below 32f it does burn alot better with my 1/2 dry wood . Its taking enough wood but houses are running warm 70-75f shop, garage 55f here catch though boilers only set at 150f I will set up higher when outside temps drop . Im just watching for leaks and issues before I set it up but I probably set to 170f max . I do notice comparing to 200css the 400 dcss the 400dcss does burn less wood If your there to feed stove and keep water temp above 120f .. if you let it drop to say 80f it really burns that wood out fast to get up to temp . It really hasn't been cold enough to start the serious feeding the stove . but I bet I went throw about 1 1/2 cord sense starting it . I will keep closer track and get back to ya . :thumbup: ( its like im not burning it hard enough but if i do Im wasting wood its the warm weather )
one of the cooler nights I fired it and 10 mins it was up to temp I was like :o that was fast . It will be interesting once we do get the cold weather . Because I think it burn pretty crazy 10f and colder . old 200css liked it 10f and colder also . that's crazy part about heatmors they like it cold . or this could be my location also stove in middle of 100 year old oaks and it might be the way it draws air . yes Im still in the learning how stack wood in it . right now Im just piling in middle 25-30 inch pieces . 400 dont like the 200 style of wood loading v to start dont work you need keep bottom 2 parallel cross pieces on top . this just my findings on start up . already at 10 gallons of ash ( its telecom powder ash ) :thumbup:
Heat550
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i took restrictor out and have been loading to the back, keeping the front 8-12 inches of the firebox open ( i found that getting the fire in the back under the back blower is the way to go) I have mine set at 175-185. No creosote issues at all. I have burnt thru 2 cord of junk wood mostly since October first heating 4000-5000 square feet. Right now in these really warm conditions im just burning mill scraps, mostly pine and cottonwood. I too have noticed that the few times that it has gotten "cold"...only in the 20's so far, the stove seems to do much much better. Still very efficient and a big step up from what i was used too.
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Yes 21 f tonight and my cycle times are way faster on heat up . Its a totally different stove compared to the 200css.
But 6600sqft is a lot of space to. I looked how heatmor figures sp ft . There thinking is 10,000 sqft max well that's
figuring a 8ft ceiling . So if we want to compare there thinking you need to add crawl spaces and vaulted ceilings also .
my garage has 10 ft ceiling and shops 12ft ceiling . So I figured it there way . It comes up to 6600 sq ft Im heating.
but if I don't include high ceilings and crawel spaces and vaults . Mines at like 5490 sq ft How I did it was figured it all
into square feet Im heating . So in heatmors world I'm at 6600sqft . This just so we compare our heat loads .
Have to let me know how it acts with restrict or out when it gets colder should act like angry dragons for sure .
Heat550
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Video small fire. https://youtu.be/MP1g5RqyJkw. 400dcss
Heat550
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Nice
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Got one more small coal bed.https://youtu.be/N-siYfuoKk8
Fans off fans on . filled it half full tonight first time. And set temp to 160f now. :thumbup:
Heat550
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heat u have ur high limit SP at 150?????
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Yes just for now . It's at 160f now with the 5f night.I set it up. It really a burning monster at 5f . bit like wood Vaporizer. It's crazy.
Nice warm house though. Here's a picture with fan off.
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heat u have ur high limit SP at 150?????
With restrict or out does it draw pretty hard at colder temps ? Mines draws way better at 5f makes my 1/2 dry wood burn likes it 20% dry wood . Burning great here restrictor still in there on mine .
Heat550
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heat,
we are just getting some colder temps. Getting down to the low 20s at night and 30s during the day....thats about as cold as we have gotten. Just for fun i took the restrictor tube and boarded out the 1inch whole to 1 1/4 inch.....I put restrictor tube back in and it has been working even better...perfect mix of over/under fire now...it has been drawing pretty good, but i still havent had cold enough temps to really put it to the test yet. I am hoping i get some colder temps on the way!!!!!! I will play around with the tube in and out when the colder temps come. As for now ive been putting 6-8 splits in morning and night and getting 12 hours easy
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heat,
we are just getting some colder temps. Getting down to the low 20s at night and 30s during the day....thats about as cold as we have gotten. Just for fun i took the restrictor tube and boarded out the 1inch whole to 1 1/4 inch.....I put restrictor tube back in and it has been working even better...perfect mix of over/under fire now...it has been drawing pretty good, but i still havent had cold enough temps to really put it to the test yet. I am hoping i get some colder temps on the way!!!!!! I will play around with the tube in and out when the colder temps come. As for now ive been putting 6-8 splits in morning and night and getting 12 hours easy
Well -11f here it draws super hard -5f and colder just like the 200css its still heating everything even set at 160f I will set it up to 170f tomorrow still in testing mode really . Let me know if you notice a big difference how much wood it takes at -11f Mines taking a wak out of the wood pile but its same as the 200css . 6600spft is alot . Air in fire box in mine seems about right had some blue tornadoes in the flames . Land around here pretty flat so I might be catching more wind at the chimney . oooo heres a heads up I went to take ashes out quick right . and left fan on because fire was low and starting it up again . well dont do that it blows ash out at you after about 2 cranks of the augar :) old 200css with only one fan didn't do that . It wont happen again here:)
Heat550
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Lol heat...I had that happen as well :) everything works g good here, been very good on wood. I out about 8-10 splits in morning and night. I clean ashes weekly...if I dont it really restricts the air under the grates and I get no fire in the back
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On mine it appears that creosote builts up in the fan area just like it does in the rest of the firebox. I don't know if what was in the bottom of the cavity is from what falls off of the fan and fan tube or if it builds there naturally.
I was wondering on your 200css is tube going from front fan to ash box 2 inch and then restrictor down to 1 inch ?
or is just 1 inch pipe ? Im wondering if the 200css is same as the 400dcss on the front fan . I'm rebuilding my old
200css (1994 ). That is why im asking . thanks for any questions . I burned a 200css for 19 years . there great stoves .
Heat550