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616
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: March 05, 2010, 06:29:17 AM »
You could always plumb the 170 degree water directly to the dishwasher coming off in a tee just prior to your mixing valve
617
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: March 04, 2010, 09:55:04 PM »
Good to know. I will be 24/7 circulating the OWB line. I was planning on doing the HX prior to the tank, and leaving the water heater turned off, and constantly circulating the water from the bottom of the tank, through the HX, and then back into the water heater tank, then out of the tank with a mixing valve. However, if you say a 10 plate HX is plenty enough to give you on-demand water, then that should work out perfectly for me. I was planning on using a 30 plate HX. I would love to totally bypass the water heater.
618
Equipment / Re: Chain holder
« on: March 02, 2010, 07:52:51 PM »
Neat rack. If I had that problem though, I think in my cheapness and ingenuity, I probably would have just taken a sharpie to the wall above the nail describing which nail was which.
619
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: March 02, 2010, 12:31:24 PM »
Yep. I ordered my furnace with the domestic port, though I think I've changed my mind on domestic hot water. I'm going to use a very oversized flat plate heat exchanger and a small circulator pump on the domestic side to give me unlimited on demand hot water. It'll save me the trouble of running extra pex lines underground.
620
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heatmor SSR
« on: February 27, 2010, 05:48:19 PM »
I know two people with 200CSS's operating without problems. That's why I chose to buy one.
I think if you go with Heatmor or Central Boiler, either one would be a good choice. They both have good warranties. Although, if you're concerned about EPA qualifications, you might look into a wood gasifier for higher efficiency and more choices for EPA qualified furnaces. I believe EKO is one of the popular brands for them.
I think if you go with Heatmor or Central Boiler, either one would be a good choice. They both have good warranties. Although, if you're concerned about EPA qualifications, you might look into a wood gasifier for higher efficiency and more choices for EPA qualified furnaces. I believe EKO is one of the popular brands for them.
621
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Chosing a pump, just when you think you know.......
« on: February 24, 2010, 04:59:07 PM »
When calculating your total head, don't forget to include all fittings, valves, reducers, elbows, etc. They all significantly add to your head calculation.
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf
622
Plumbing / Re: More water line discussion
« on: February 24, 2010, 10:42:52 AM »
I think he means that he thinks he has water intrusion into his water barrier around his lines. Water directly touching the heated water lines will transfer heat away from the water lines quickly into the ground and it should present as noticeable temperature drop by the time the water enters the house.
623
Plumbing / Re: what did you use for the feeder line
« on: February 22, 2010, 10:53:22 AM »
Digging this one up for food for thought. Would placing 4 or 6" drain tile inside of a few inches of concrete prevent it from not only cracking and being compromised, but also being crushed if driven over?
624
Plumbing / Re: More water line discussion
« on: February 21, 2010, 01:56:29 PM »
Even the best insulation still allows a little heat transfer. If the ground around your lines only warms up 2 degrees, the snow on that ground will melt before the rest of the ground. If you have no performance issues inside, I wouldn't worry.
625
Plumbing / plumbing my owb
« on: February 20, 2010, 06:40:26 PM »
I posted this same thing on Hearth.com. Thanks for being patient with me so far on this forum. Looking for more/other insight:
I’m putting in an outdoor wood boiler to heat my home and garage, as well as domestic water. I’ll be using a Heatmor 200css with a domestic coil on it rather than a sidearm or flat plate heat exchanger for the water. I plan to place the unit approximately 100’ from my house and about 50’ from my single car garage.
1) What size PEX should I use?
1” PEX would be great because I anticipate needing at least 200’ of tubing to go from the boiler to the house and back. I’ll be self-insulating and water sealing my own lines. Will 1” PEX be enough to heat just my home (drafty 1660 sq ft forced air) or do I need to step up to 1.25” PEX? 100’ or so in one direction. It’s far easier to find fittings for 1” than it is 1.25”. The clamp tool I’m seeing only does up to 1”.
2) 3/4” PEX for the domestic coil?
It’s separate from the lines dedicated to heating the home. Cold well water to the furnace coil, hot domestic water back to the house. Is 3/4” going to be plenty for just that? 100’ or so in one direction as well.
3) Garage heat PEX size?
Only 50’ away from the boiler. Totally uninsulated small garage, single car sized. I’m going to put a water/air exchanger with a fan behind it hanging from the ceiling. I’m not looking to keep the place 75 degrees, but 50-60 degrees would be nice. I was thinking maybe 3/4” PEX again?
4) Splitting the lines?
The house and garage aren’t very close to each other. Would it make the most sense to Tee the output directly at the furnace so one side goes to the house for heat and the other goes to the garage for heat? Then, bring the two loops back together with a Tee right at the inlet side of the furnace again? Control valves on everything. Separate pumps for each loop? The domestic coil is totally separate and pumped via my well pump/house water pressure.
5) Manifold?
Right now all I have in the house is a forced air setup. All I need is a water/air heat exchanger in my plenum as far as I know. My tile kitchen floor is ventless, however, and my feet are quite cold. It would be quite difficult to add a vent to the kitchen near the floor, and equally difficult to add radiant heat by design of the house. I am thinking about adding baseboard heat along the bottom of the cabinets from the hot water. Should I build a small manifold in the house to split the water/air exchanger and the baseboard in the kitchen or could I just incorporate the loop back to the boiler into the baseboard heat? I don’t need to make it a separate zone, just warm up the kitchen a little.
6) Sharkbite or stainless steel clamps?
Sharkbites look really simple to use and are cheaper than buying the clamp tool. The clamps shouldn’t fail over time because they don’t have any o-rings. Which would you recommend? I plan on purchasing as much as possible from pexsupply.com
What I've found is that I haven't found any O2 barrier 1 1/4" PEX or any fittings that fit it if I ever find it. Can someone point me in the right direction?
I’m putting in an outdoor wood boiler to heat my home and garage, as well as domestic water. I’ll be using a Heatmor 200css with a domestic coil on it rather than a sidearm or flat plate heat exchanger for the water. I plan to place the unit approximately 100’ from my house and about 50’ from my single car garage.
1) What size PEX should I use?
1” PEX would be great because I anticipate needing at least 200’ of tubing to go from the boiler to the house and back. I’ll be self-insulating and water sealing my own lines. Will 1” PEX be enough to heat just my home (drafty 1660 sq ft forced air) or do I need to step up to 1.25” PEX? 100’ or so in one direction. It’s far easier to find fittings for 1” than it is 1.25”. The clamp tool I’m seeing only does up to 1”.
2) 3/4” PEX for the domestic coil?
It’s separate from the lines dedicated to heating the home. Cold well water to the furnace coil, hot domestic water back to the house. Is 3/4” going to be plenty for just that? 100’ or so in one direction as well.
3) Garage heat PEX size?
Only 50’ away from the boiler. Totally uninsulated small garage, single car sized. I’m going to put a water/air exchanger with a fan behind it hanging from the ceiling. I’m not looking to keep the place 75 degrees, but 50-60 degrees would be nice. I was thinking maybe 3/4” PEX again?
4) Splitting the lines?
The house and garage aren’t very close to each other. Would it make the most sense to Tee the output directly at the furnace so one side goes to the house for heat and the other goes to the garage for heat? Then, bring the two loops back together with a Tee right at the inlet side of the furnace again? Control valves on everything. Separate pumps for each loop? The domestic coil is totally separate and pumped via my well pump/house water pressure.
5) Manifold?
Right now all I have in the house is a forced air setup. All I need is a water/air heat exchanger in my plenum as far as I know. My tile kitchen floor is ventless, however, and my feet are quite cold. It would be quite difficult to add a vent to the kitchen near the floor, and equally difficult to add radiant heat by design of the house. I am thinking about adding baseboard heat along the bottom of the cabinets from the hot water. Should I build a small manifold in the house to split the water/air exchanger and the baseboard in the kitchen or could I just incorporate the loop back to the boiler into the baseboard heat? I don’t need to make it a separate zone, just warm up the kitchen a little.
6) Sharkbite or stainless steel clamps?
Sharkbites look really simple to use and are cheaper than buying the clamp tool. The clamps shouldn’t fail over time because they don’t have any o-rings. Which would you recommend? I plan on purchasing as much as possible from pexsupply.com
What I've found is that I haven't found any O2 barrier 1 1/4" PEX or any fittings that fit it if I ever find it. Can someone point me in the right direction?
626
General Discussion / Re: Getting to know one another
« on: February 19, 2010, 10:41:40 AM »
1. Jed
2. 24
3. Professional Firefighter and MD Tree Expert
4. Motorcycling (long distance touring and cutting up the twisties), Paintball
5. '96 Blazer
6. None personally, but I work for my father's tree company and we run Echo 4400's, the two largest Husqvarnas, the two largest Echos, Shindaiwa mid sized saws, the largest Shindaiwa, and Jonsared climbing saws.
7. Married 1.5 years, 8 month old daughter, 3 month old german shepherd
8. Working on getting a Heatmor 200CSS
2. 24
3. Professional Firefighter and MD Tree Expert
4. Motorcycling (long distance touring and cutting up the twisties), Paintball
5. '96 Blazer
6. None personally, but I work for my father's tree company and we run Echo 4400's, the two largest Husqvarnas, the two largest Echos, Shindaiwa mid sized saws, the largest Shindaiwa, and Jonsared climbing saws.
7. Married 1.5 years, 8 month old daughter, 3 month old german shepherd
8. Working on getting a Heatmor 200CSS
627
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: my manifold
« on: February 16, 2010, 09:45:58 PM »
thanks for the bigger pictures. this gives me an idea on how to design a manifold for my own use.
629
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: my manifold
« on: February 16, 2010, 10:54:24 AM »
Do you have a larger picture of your manifold?
630
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 08:45:24 PM »
i was also thinking of adding the used oil burner and hooking up my oil tank to it as backup heat. it can't be much less efficient than my 30+ year old oil burner in my basement, and then i could have just an air handler only in the basement.