Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Shaver Furnace => Topic started by: doow14 on November 25, 2013, 04:55:22 PM
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what is the thought process on what to set the auqastat too.The last couple years I have set my temp at 175*blower comes on at 173.from what I been reading most have theres set at 10 or 15 for blower to come on.at my 2* diff the blower comes on for 5 /6 min to catch up.the blower comes on about every 25/30min.when my stove gets behind 15* it runs a long time to catch up sometimes 40 min seems like it just blows a lot of btus up the stack. I don't really know whats the best way to set it.I know some of you guys out can give some reasoning on that.Thanks, Dwight
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Dwight,
Most of us are running a 10-15* differential because a longer hot fire is more efficient than a shorter colder fire. If the stove heats up for 5-6 minutes the fire never really gets a chance to burn efficiently, most of that time is getting the coals hot again and which is in turn heating the unburned wood to a point where it starts to off gas. At this point the stove has come back up to temp and cools down again. Now if you have a longer burn time to raise the temp up, the the coals will heat the wood up causing it to off gas and heat up to a point that it burns the gasses effectively and efficiently.
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Dwight,
I have a Shaver Pro Series 165 and I use the original thermostat in the back of the water jacket. I have it set on 140 to 145 it will fluctuate quite a bit, but it works just fine. My home is 1500 sq. ft. and the air comes out the furnace ducts in my home at 125 degrees. What is the square footage of your home?
Greg Steinacher
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Thanks Honda,i changed my diff to 8* last night it did ok I didn't even fully load it. I'l tinker with it some and try to find a sweet spot.Greg my house is about 1200 insulated fairly well also heat my shop its 16x20x9 high insulated very well I only keep it about 49/50 when Im not out there. I keep the stat in the house at 68*that's preety comfy to us,and we have loads of hot water.my stove is a 165 don't know if its a pro ser whats the diff.
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Dwight,
I have a Shaver Pro Series 165 and I use the original thermostat in the back of the water jacket. I have it set on 140 to 145 it will fluctuate quite a bit, but it works just fine. My home is 1500 sq. ft. and the air comes out the furnace ducts in my home at 125 degrees. What is the square footage of your home?
Greg Steinacher
140-145? Wow, what are your return temps
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Doow14,
If its a water unit its a Pro Series!
Scott,
Not sure what my return water is. Will check! I used to know, have forgotten.
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Scott7m,
These temps. were taken with a hand held thermometer. Don't know how accurate they are?
Outdoor furnace temp. 140 degrees F
Return water temp. 97 Had a hard time getting this reading, insulation was in the way. Did best I could!
House temp. 70
Temp. of air ducts in house 125
Temp. from propane furnace without the outdoor wood furnace at ducts in house, around 100 degrees.
Greg Steinacher
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Am pretty sure Scott is not going to like your return temps. It has been discussed many times about return temps being ideal in the over 140 degree range.
Hand held thermometer can be difficult to get correct readings, even infrared guns have inconsistent readings if you can not get them aimed at metal parts.
Everyone has a little different "sweet spots" and it takes some toying around to find what works best, my system seems to run very well at 175 degree set point with 10 degree diff. At least in the majority of the solder time of the year, warmer temps will make differences also I use a lot of scrappy wood in the fall and spring, that kind of wood needs closer diff's.
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Am pretty sure Scott is not going to like your return temps. It has been discussed many times about return temps being ideal in the over 140 degree range.
Hand held thermometer can be difficult to get correct readings, even infrared guns have inconsistent readings if you can not get them aimed at metal parts.
Everyone has a little different "sweet spots" and it takes some toying around to find what works best, my system seems to run very well at 175 degree set point with 10 degree diff. At least in the majority of the solder time of the year, warmer temps will make differences also I use a lot of scrappy wood in the fall and spring, that kind of wood needs closer diff's.
im not going to start no arguements but thats beggging for trouble. That was the number 1 reason a lot of your big boiler companies saw premature boiler failures was running them to cold. There are dozens of reasons for it, im sure slim would agree whole heartedly
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Scott7m,
I've been running my Pro Series 165 this way for about 4 Winters now. What sort of problems am I supposed to be having? I have had none thus far.
It also maintains my domestic at 120 to 125 degrees F!
Greg Steinacher
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Greg,wouldnt the auqastat mod be a great improvement to your stove? seems like it was for mine.That original doowhicky on my stove went all over the place no control at all.Just saying.Keep warm.Dwight
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Scott7m,
I've been running my Pro Series 165 this way for about 4 Winters now. What sort of problems am I supposed to be having? I have had none thus far.
It also maintains my domestic at 120 to 125 degrees F!
Greg Steinacher
google "boiler protection"
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Cold water causes condensation to form on the inside of the fire box I believe.
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Greg, I would absolutly agree with Scott on this one, our 250 on startup will condense in the heat exchanger up to about 140 degrees, we never want it to RUN below about 160, In my opinion you will be well off to bring the temps up. By the way thanks for taking care of Rugerman!
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Scott7m,
I've been running my Pro Series 165 this way for about 4 Winters now. What sort of problems am I supposed to be having? I have had none thus far.
It also maintains my domestic at 120 to 125 degrees F!
Greg Steinacher
youll see soon id say, all boilers regardless of fuel type have provisions in place to keep all water temps above 140, even return water temps above 140
There is even govt codes n such thats been posted on the forum regarding risks and possible damage by running to cool
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One of my concern is when folks assume everything is working properly simply because there house is warm wnd water isnhot, nothing could be further from the truth
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Now that I have the damper mod on I would never go back too the original way.I modified the original 50 cmf blower to use the flapper and it seems to work just fine.it dampens way down between cycles,very little smoke coming out sometimes I wonder if it went plumb out. But it springs back to life real fast when the blower comes on.wood usage has gone down significant. I sure don't want to burn 10 cord if I can get away with 8.