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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I Did something Stupid
« on: January 20, 2014, 09:04:52 PM »
I have the OWB and pumps on emergency power, and a thermostat on the fan for the shop. I don't know what I was thinking when I kicked the pump off.
Brian
Brian
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / I Did something Stupid
« on: January 19, 2014, 05:48:37 PM »
I wish more people would write in sometimes and let others know of their blunders so others can laugh and/or learn from others mistakes.
This is my first year with my OWB and I'm learning. I am running two loops, one to the house and one to my wife's sewing shop. When she's not sewing much, I kill the pump to that loop.
It got down to single digits here a couple weeks ago and my wife did not get out to the shop any. Yesterday she goes to the shop and water goes everywhere. Froze and broke heat exchanger.
I haven't replaced it yet, it's leaking in about 20 different places. This was my $200 mistake. I was a tightwad and will be wiring the pump to run all the time. it never even dawned on me that the thing would freeze; my head was just not in it.
There you have it, run your pumps all the time in the winter.
Brian
This is my first year with my OWB and I'm learning. I am running two loops, one to the house and one to my wife's sewing shop. When she's not sewing much, I kill the pump to that loop.
It got down to single digits here a couple weeks ago and my wife did not get out to the shop any. Yesterday she goes to the shop and water goes everywhere. Froze and broke heat exchanger.
I haven't replaced it yet, it's leaking in about 20 different places. This was my $200 mistake. I was a tightwad and will be wiring the pump to run all the time. it never even dawned on me that the thing would freeze; my head was just not in it.
There you have it, run your pumps all the time in the winter.
Brian
3
Earth Outdoor Wood Furnaces / Re: Smoke during burn cycle?
« on: November 28, 2013, 09:00:53 PM »
I too have the Mountain Man 500 and am impressed with the small amount of smoke for the most part. I burned some scrap lumber once and that smoked something terrible.
I burn dry wood with a good coal bed. If my bed gets smallish, I'll put some dryed Pine or some bark chunks to build it back. I made a damper/solenoid to shut the air off when not in a burn cycle and that works great.
Brian
I burn dry wood with a good coal bed. If my bed gets smallish, I'll put some dryed Pine or some bark chunks to build it back. I made a damper/solenoid to shut the air off when not in a burn cycle and that works great.
Brian
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Grundfos 15-58 Check Valve?
« on: November 21, 2013, 01:44:45 PM »
I was advised to pull mine out and I've had no negatives to this.
Brian
Brian
6
Plumbing / Re: Pump Selection
« on: November 04, 2013, 07:43:46 AM »
It's just standard 1' PEX, the sharkbites work perfect.
Can we visit pump speed that you mentioned? How would I know if I needed to slow the pump or speed up the pump?
I've got the small pump on it now just to get heat moving but I have not connected the 30 plate yet.
Brian
Can we visit pump speed that you mentioned? How would I know if I needed to slow the pump or speed up the pump?
I've got the small pump on it now just to get heat moving but I have not connected the 30 plate yet.
Brian
7
Plumbing / Re: Pump Selection
« on: November 03, 2013, 02:54:22 PM »
I didn't mean to bring this back up but I need a little help.
My run to the house is 220ft one way of 1" pex. I have a 20x20 water to air hooked up. From the pump through the whole loop, there are 2 shark bite 90's total. I want to plumb in a 30 plate water to water and this will take a few more fittings.
What would be an estimate of my head and would the 26-99 still be a good pump?
I am using the 15-58 just to get heat moving but I want to do what I can to make it right.
Thanks,
Brian
My run to the house is 220ft one way of 1" pex. I have a 20x20 water to air hooked up. From the pump through the whole loop, there are 2 shark bite 90's total. I want to plumb in a 30 plate water to water and this will take a few more fittings.
What would be an estimate of my head and would the 26-99 still be a good pump?
I am using the 15-58 just to get heat moving but I want to do what I can to make it right.
Thanks,
Brian
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: November 01, 2013, 11:08:02 AM »
I haven't bought the boot/flashing yet. It's on my to do list.
Brian
Brian
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: First Fire Ever In My OWB
« on: October 30, 2013, 10:56:52 AM »
I will look at the air tube that the blower attaches to and see if there is a swinging damper. I know that with the blower OFF there is enough neg presure going through the blower that it will hold a piece of cardboard in place to trace the shape out.
Brian
Brian
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: First Fire Ever In My OWB
« on: October 28, 2013, 07:22:20 PM »
I have one of the first Mountain man stoves. The blower is in the rear and not in the door. There is no flap or damper, when the motor quits you can place your hand on the opening and feel it sucking.
I bought it from a guy that bought it to heat a chicken house. He had a contract with Tysons and they nixed it. It sat unused for years before I could get it from him.
Brian
I bought it from a guy that bought it to heat a chicken house. He had a contract with Tysons and they nixed it. It sat unused for years before I could get it from him.
Brian
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / First Fire Ever In My OWB
« on: October 28, 2013, 07:49:23 AM »
I finally got my Earth Wood furnace hooked up, one zone anyway. I will be heating my house off one loop and the shop off another.
I wanted to share a few things that I learned here and thank everyone for there shared knowledge:
1- take the extra time to do the stove pipe the right way. I was going to run mine out the side wall. I boxed the roof beam to make way for a roof penetration and then took it out the corrugated roof. This is the way to do it!
2- Do what you can to reduce 90's and other restrictions. I have not hooked up my fixed plate yet as I had to prove that the thing would work to my wife first. She doubted that there would be any real heat and wouldn't let me spend any more money until there was evidence. I have a total of 4 90's in the whole system.
3- While your there, put in a connection by the pump to connect city water. I was able to shut off the top valve (pump supply) and push the air out with city water. Open the pump supply and prime the supply side.
4- Bleed the air and bleed the air and bleed it again. It did take several attempts before I got most of the air out.
5- I had a boil over- My stove did not have a damper and solenoid to block air from coming in through the blower at idle. Duct tape for now. Solenoid ordered from Grainger and pictures from members on the Shaver side for a retro fit.
My house is all electric and the heat from my heat pump in the winter is just above room temperature air. The air from this OWB is HOT air and when the blower kicks off, you can still feel a little warm air coming through the vents from convection. Wife is happy and I can spend a little more to finnish the hot water and her shop.
Why did it take 20 years to do something???
Thanks for all the great shared knowledge.
Brian
I wanted to share a few things that I learned here and thank everyone for there shared knowledge:
1- take the extra time to do the stove pipe the right way. I was going to run mine out the side wall. I boxed the roof beam to make way for a roof penetration and then took it out the corrugated roof. This is the way to do it!
2- Do what you can to reduce 90's and other restrictions. I have not hooked up my fixed plate yet as I had to prove that the thing would work to my wife first. She doubted that there would be any real heat and wouldn't let me spend any more money until there was evidence. I have a total of 4 90's in the whole system.
3- While your there, put in a connection by the pump to connect city water. I was able to shut off the top valve (pump supply) and push the air out with city water. Open the pump supply and prime the supply side.
4- Bleed the air and bleed the air and bleed it again. It did take several attempts before I got most of the air out.
5- I had a boil over- My stove did not have a damper and solenoid to block air from coming in through the blower at idle. Duct tape for now. Solenoid ordered from Grainger and pictures from members on the Shaver side for a retro fit.
My house is all electric and the heat from my heat pump in the winter is just above room temperature air. The air from this OWB is HOT air and when the blower kicks off, you can still feel a little warm air coming through the vents from convection. Wife is happy and I can spend a little more to finnish the hot water and her shop.
Why did it take 20 years to do something???
Thanks for all the great shared knowledge.
Brian
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: October 22, 2013, 07:29:35 PM »
I got my lines all terminated at the furnace, electrical done. I need to mount the heat exchangers.
I had to order the 45's for the stack but I'm getting there.
I did split some sycamore today. I hate this stuff.
Brian
I had to order the 45's for the stack but I'm getting there.
I did split some sycamore today. I hate this stuff.
Brian
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:56:39 AM »
I'll get a picture up of what I'm doing soon.
Now I just picked up that I really need insulated pipe???
the 6" steel pipi coming out of my Earth OWB is 18" from the bottom of the corrugated roof. I need to offest this about 6" toward the down slope to gain clearance from a 2x6 beam. I have a 2/12 pitch so I need 4' from the roof penetration to clear the ridge.
would you use insulated pipe for this 4 ft, or should I insulate all the way down to the enclosure of the OWB?
Brian
Now I just picked up that I really need insulated pipe???
the 6" steel pipi coming out of my Earth OWB is 18" from the bottom of the corrugated roof. I need to offest this about 6" toward the down slope to gain clearance from a 2x6 beam. I have a 2/12 pitch so I need 4' from the roof penetration to clear the ridge.
would you use insulated pipe for this 4 ft, or should I insulate all the way down to the enclosure of the OWB?
Brian
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: October 16, 2013, 07:46:11 PM »
I appreciate all the concerns, this is my first year with my fires OWB.
I have already pulled the pipe and cut the hole in the roof. I just need a couple 45's to get clearance away from a 2x6.
I'm still concerned about sealing the stack to the corrugated roof tin.
Brian
I have already pulled the pipe and cut the hole in the roof. I just need a couple 45's to get clearance away from a 2x6.
I'm still concerned about sealing the stack to the corrugated roof tin.
Brian
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB Stack question
« on: October 16, 2013, 04:41:35 PM »
Barn to me"
16'x32' Steel trusses with 2x6 purlings Cedar poles, dirt floor, corrigated tin on roof and three sides.
Only thing in the bldg is the OWB, 3 cords c/s/s wood, waste oil storage and my biodiesel processor.
Pigs and chickens have their own bldgs.
I'm going to go through the roof but I need a couple adjustable elbows to offset the stovepipe 6 inches.
Brian
16'x32' Steel trusses with 2x6 purlings Cedar poles, dirt floor, corrigated tin on roof and three sides.
Only thing in the bldg is the OWB, 3 cords c/s/s wood, waste oil storage and my biodiesel processor.
Pigs and chickens have their own bldgs.
I'm going to go through the roof but I need a couple adjustable elbows to offset the stovepipe 6 inches.
Brian