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1
For Sale / Splitter For Sale
« on: May 28, 2012, 01:09:14 PM »
Selling my spliiter. You can see the pics and info here
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=1889.0
If you are mention this site its yours for 650 FIRM! I'm into this thing at around 2K.
ROCKFORD, IL
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=1889.0
If you are mention this site its yours for 650 FIRM! I'm into this thing at around 2K.
ROCKFORD, IL
2
General Discussion / How to "rip" wood with a chainsaw
« on: March 02, 2012, 10:47:31 AM »
There is a porch on this rental house (a 3 seasons prch we call them around here) with no stairs. It is about a 4 foot drop. There are 3 or 4 telephone poles laying out back. Being the cheap ass that I am, I am going to build some quick free stairs off the back. I have a full chisel chain, how do I rip a couple of these down for U shaped stairs? I can't think of how to secure the pole while I cut it. Any help from people who have done this (or just been a bystander is fine too) would be great. 
3
Equipment / New log splitter with lift and grapple (pics)
« on: February 26, 2012, 11:12:48 AM »
Just picked up a new splitter yesterday. 16HP twin Onan motor (Circa 1980, if the chart I found is right) Horizontally opposed, with a 32 inch piston (the splitter, not the motor). I know my spelling is poor, Mozilla and Google Chrome both have stopped working, and IE sucks for extra features.
I will be doing some improvements, was hoping for some advice on what works and what doesn’t.
1) This hydro tank has got to go. It is wayyyyy to small, not sealed well (the top is just some sheet metal bolts anchored in) And the "roof" they have on it means I can't fill it without a funnel and hose, and its just as hard to check.
Can I mount a new hydro tank under the pump? There is a sweet spot on the back of the splitter that would be perfect for a large tank. Will the pump suck it uphill? If it will, would it all drain back out when I shut it down and cause it to get air in the lines? When I drove spotter truck, we had hydro 5th wheels, and our tanks were below the pump, but I don't know if there are one way valves I need or what.
2) The cherry picker with grapple goes down too slow. They put a needle valve on both the supply and return lines. The lines are tiny, maybe around 5/8th's if I had to guess. I want to put a 3/4" line on the return side. I opened the needle valve all the way up, better but still too slow. Any downsides to a large return line?
Also, where the lines hit the picker arm, they are getting twisted. I was thinking of running hard lines down from the cylinder, than a swivel at the base connecting to the rubber hoses.
3) I am looking for information on the pump. Some people like doing genealogy on their family. I like doing it on old equipment I buy. It was made by Drott Manufacturing, and the only info I can find on the model # is from a 1946 dozer. I know a lot of you guys have heavy equipment, and would love to know the GPM of this pump, along with the recommended RPM and so on. Its a Drott Model 52163, C.S. & Serial B89-6730.
[attachment deleted by admin]
I will be doing some improvements, was hoping for some advice on what works and what doesn’t.
1) This hydro tank has got to go. It is wayyyyy to small, not sealed well (the top is just some sheet metal bolts anchored in) And the "roof" they have on it means I can't fill it without a funnel and hose, and its just as hard to check.
Can I mount a new hydro tank under the pump? There is a sweet spot on the back of the splitter that would be perfect for a large tank. Will the pump suck it uphill? If it will, would it all drain back out when I shut it down and cause it to get air in the lines? When I drove spotter truck, we had hydro 5th wheels, and our tanks were below the pump, but I don't know if there are one way valves I need or what.
2) The cherry picker with grapple goes down too slow. They put a needle valve on both the supply and return lines. The lines are tiny, maybe around 5/8th's if I had to guess. I want to put a 3/4" line on the return side. I opened the needle valve all the way up, better but still too slow. Any downsides to a large return line?
Also, where the lines hit the picker arm, they are getting twisted. I was thinking of running hard lines down from the cylinder, than a swivel at the base connecting to the rubber hoses.
3) I am looking for information on the pump. Some people like doing genealogy on their family. I like doing it on old equipment I buy. It was made by Drott Manufacturing, and the only info I can find on the model # is from a 1946 dozer. I know a lot of you guys have heavy equipment, and would love to know the GPM of this pump, along with the recommended RPM and so on. Its a Drott Model 52163, C.S. & Serial B89-6730.
[attachment deleted by admin]
4
Equipment / Used / Rebuilt Chainsaws on eBay
« on: February 04, 2012, 02:08:34 PM »
I have been looking into rebuild Stihl saws on eBay. Has anyone ever gone this route, or better yet, does anyone actually know and trust someone who sells rebuilt saws on eBay? (or anywhere for that matter!)
A saw is a huge investment for me, I cannot afford to get burned. I know if I bought a new one, that would dramatically cut my chances of failure, but the price of brand new means I get a lot less saw.
Any old timers out there that know what Stihl's were the best?
A saw is a huge investment for me, I cannot afford to get burned. I know if I bought a new one, that would dramatically cut my chances of failure, but the price of brand new means I get a lot less saw.
Any old timers out there that know what Stihl's were the best?
5
Heatmor / Burned up 200 - Rebuilding it. School me please
« on: January 14, 2012, 04:11:03 PM »
I have a 200 from 2003-2006 era. I moved into a rental and the last tenants (so I am told) left the ash door open and caused an uncontrolled burn which ended this Heatmor's stock usable life. I finally, after much calling and web searching, found a dealer out of upstate NY who will get me all the parts I need. He is the nicest person I have found, and I could not get any dealers to call me back once the find out I need parts and service not a new unit. I live in Northern IL. I am hoping to find a "biology 101" for OWB's. I ordered the service book yesterday from my NY heatmor contact.
A few questions I have been searching for the answer are, What exactly does the anode rob do? Inhibit corrosion? If so, how? Does it just sit in the water inside the unit?
I am told I should use some boiler chemical to fight corrosion. The heatmor supplies hot water to our water heater, so would that chemical make us sick?
Is there any changes I should make when I strip this sucker down to re-wire it? Like anything that could be improved that might not be worth doing on a unit your not stripping down, but if you were already in it.... I love new ideas and thinking outside the box, so don't hold back.
What does that rubber ball on the top of the unmelted units do?
Here are some pictures if I can get it to work.
[attachment deleted by admin]
A few questions I have been searching for the answer are, What exactly does the anode rob do? Inhibit corrosion? If so, how? Does it just sit in the water inside the unit?
I am told I should use some boiler chemical to fight corrosion. The heatmor supplies hot water to our water heater, so would that chemical make us sick?
Is there any changes I should make when I strip this sucker down to re-wire it? Like anything that could be improved that might not be worth doing on a unit your not stripping down, but if you were already in it.... I love new ideas and thinking outside the box, so don't hold back.
What does that rubber ball on the top of the unmelted units do?
Here are some pictures if I can get it to work.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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