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16
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rip off
« on: February 03, 2017, 05:21:16 PM »
how can there be such a spread in prices
17
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rip off
« on: February 02, 2017, 08:51:32 PM »the whole bill is a sham your actual cost per kwh is about 5 cents more than they show. there are three costs in the delivery rate ...Volume charge of 3.74 cents per kwh, .44 cents per kwh for a "connection charge and .62 cents per kwh for something dreamed up as a Network charge, also on the bill komando posted you will see at the bottom they show a savings as they have removed the debt retirement charge...they did not remove it they just put it in the delivery charge but tell you each month how nice they are since they removed it. I used 168 dollars in electricity but my bill total was 369, If I sent in only a check for 168 dollars I bet I would have no electricity in a month or a collection agency at my dooryes Kenny, I just take the total, taxes and all, divide the total by the KWH and that is the "real" cost of the electricityThat does not work if you are trying to calculate what a particular appliance costs to run. Say you have something using 200 watts 24/7. If you figure that way you would say it cost about $34 per month. If you turn off the device you will not save $34. It will just make your per KWH rate calculation higher for what you did use.
Or another way to look at it, say you turned off everything and ended up only using 1 KWH for the month. Would you say it was correct to use the total bill amount and claim the power rate was that per KWH?
if you paid 1 dollar a gallon for gas and got 20 mile to the gallon would you say it costs 1 dollar to drive 20 miles or would you say (after taking off the government road tax, any state tax and any other charges that amounted to 50 cents that you now can drive that 20 miles for 50 cents? I know what you are saying but my total cost for electricity is what it is no matter how you look at it and yes I have a property where I use no electricity for months at a time (very little) I have seen a bill for about 60 dollars for 20 kwh so tht month it averages out to 3 dollars per kwh to have that meter at the pole (again not the cost of the kwh in actual cost but that is what I had to pay the company that sells it to me we pay dearly for the convenience and there are no other providers.
18
Fire Wood / Re: Not impressed with Husqvarna 372
« on: February 01, 2017, 08:27:14 PM »
bought a new stihl a few weeks ago, no settings on it for adjusting the carb, supposed to do it all by itself...I hope it does
19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rip off
« on: February 01, 2017, 08:24:57 PM »
yes Kenny, I just take the total, taxes and all, divide the total by the KWH and that is the "real" cost of the electricity
20
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rip off
« on: February 01, 2017, 04:47:19 PM »
my last bill 369.56 for 1,560.6012 KWH = 23.7 cents per KWH....they are choking us here in ontario
21
Central Boiler / Re: 0014 01 pump cartridge fail
« on: January 25, 2017, 10:13:17 PM »
on another note, taco pumps must be mounted to their specifications (position of motor) to work correctly and avoid problems like cavitation)
22
Central Boiler / Re: 0014 01 pump cartridge fail
« on: January 25, 2017, 09:49:40 PM »
aarmga I understand most of what you describe and I think I am getting a between 5 and 6 gpm from when I can feel hot water arriving at the pump when the system is started in the fall. (250 feet from stove to pump and it takes 1.5 minutes from start up until I feel heat in the line)
with my pump in the basement I felt I should be on the low side of the maximum suggested flow for 1 inch pex ala pex. the suggested flow rates I found on line were from 5.2 gpm to 10.4 and why pump more, 5 gpm is supposed to deliver 50,000 btu per minute and that suits my needs
I found a line in your post somewhat baffling though, you said you were lifting water 12 feet? doesn't matter where your stove is, if your pump is on the stove you cant be lifting water 12 feet, you could be pushing it up hill 12 feet
with my pump in the basement I felt I should be on the low side of the maximum suggested flow for 1 inch pex ala pex. the suggested flow rates I found on line were from 5.2 gpm to 10.4 and why pump more, 5 gpm is supposed to deliver 50,000 btu per minute and that suits my needs
I found a line in your post somewhat baffling though, you said you were lifting water 12 feet? doesn't matter where your stove is, if your pump is on the stove you cant be lifting water 12 feet, you could be pushing it up hill 12 feet
23
Central Boiler / Re: 0014 01 pump cartridge fail
« on: January 25, 2017, 07:20:07 PM »
I have a taco 11 in my basement, 250 feet from my stove, it has been there and working every winter since 2003. I shut it off in April and start it up in late October, I have never turned it on in the summer one time.
not sure why I have never had any of the problems mentioned with having the pump in the basement?
not sure why I have never had any of the problems mentioned with having the pump in the basement?
24
Fire Wood / Re: First hitch
« on: January 14, 2017, 06:31:46 PM »I've been thinking of going out to start cutting wood for next year , but ground is not frozen here either. I'm not so worried about making ruts , I'm more worried if I do make a mess and it freezes I won't be able to drive over it.I think I'm going to start felling trees and then see what the weather brings as far as getting them out.with you on that Al, we were froze up last sunday, even my trail in my normally wet bush was solid. I got most of a years wood down but it has rained and thawed ever since. More warm weather predicted here next week, I am also gonna wait it out for colder weather before cutting
25
Plumbing / Re: Heat loss to ground
« on: December 27, 2016, 05:11:34 PM »
if you were moving 5 gpm your heat loss be about 80 btu per min and that all adds up to about 115,200 per day (80per min x 60 min x 24 hours = btu lost per day) now I read some on said your stove is 60 percent efficient so your heat loss number is about 60 percent of 192,000 and it is an acceptable average of 8600 usable bty in a pound of wood so 192000 divided by 8600 is about 24 so you are burning at this time 24 pounds of wood per day to make up for the lost btu's if you ran your stove from November 1 to about the end of march that would be close to 150 days 150 days x 24 is about 3,600 pounds of wood
however if you are just starting to notice this melting it will likely get worse if the water continues to infiltrate your pipe and moves farther down the line and causes more heat loss (if this is your problem)
believe me, I have gone through it to the point I was burning at least 5 cords a year extra, I had a run of 250 feet and in the dead of winter I had a 3 foot wide green grass sidewalk from the house to the stove!
however if you are just starting to notice this melting it will likely get worse if the water continues to infiltrate your pipe and moves farther down the line and causes more heat loss (if this is your problem)
believe me, I have gone through it to the point I was burning at least 5 cords a year extra, I had a run of 250 feet and in the dead of winter I had a 3 foot wide green grass sidewalk from the house to the stove!
26
Plumbing / Re: More air in system
« on: November 24, 2016, 04:11:58 PM »
you say you have moved the furnace 200 feet? do you have a pump big enough to move water over the added head pressure you have created with the longer lines? you need to provide more information for those folks here that can help you. there Is more to moving water than "hooking up a pump"
27
Plumbing / Re: Hooking up Radiant Floor in Garage
« on: November 16, 2016, 08:41:41 PM »
1/2 in pex = .92 gallons per 100 feet of pipe
5/8 = 1.34 per 100 feet
3/4 = 1.83 per 100 feet
5/8 = 1.34 per 100 feet
3/4 = 1.83 per 100 feet
28
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 07, 2016, 03:22:20 AM »Willieg,no if it were hooked directly it would not work, sorry for confusing you more. when you said earlier you had a tube and shell exchanger I took you meant a tube with a long coil inside it (mine has 50 feet inside)
The installer had me tap into the water heater for the supply from the side where the pressure relief valve is at. I see what you are saying if it were hooked directly to the cold line. If it were hooked up that way directly,would there be enough time to heat the water as it goes though under house pressure. But being where its at on the side, when the water is turned on, flow is coming in the cold input of the water heater and not directly though the input of the side arm. and the outflow of house water is coming out of the hot side of the water heater. So water heated by the boiler is just siphoning through as water is used?
I hope this all makes sense, because I'm confusing myself.
29
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 05, 2016, 06:30:13 PM »
I'm going to make a guess here (by the photos) your homes cold water supply is hooked to both your side arm and your hot water tank? if so, then I think your siphoning comes to a halt the moment you open the hot water tap in the house and the path of least resistance is sending cold water under the homes pressure up the side arm at a rate that there is very little heat transfer and you are in fact delivering cold water to the top of the hot water tank?
30
Central Boiler / Re: Water heater water to water heat exchanger install
« on: November 03, 2016, 06:09:38 PM »
I have my homes cold water supply in one side of my exchanger and then out to the cold water supply of my hot water heater, I leave my home hot water heater turned on but it rarely ever fires in the winter