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Messages - willieG

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31
Plumbing / Re: Recommended flow rate for a 10 loop manifold
« on: November 03, 2016, 05:21:25 PM »
yes, moving water too fast through any piping system can cause premature wear on fittings and the pipe itself. I believe the charts I have seen rate 1/2 pex at about 2.3 gpm

32
Plumbing / Re: Recommended flow rate for a 10 loop manifold
« on: November 02, 2016, 04:05:54 PM »
f your have a header  with 10 loops running off of it and you want .6 gpm to each loop you will require a pump capable of delivering 6 gpm to the header (mixed at your desired temp)  you say you were delivering much higher rates? that should lower your delta. I am no exert on floor loops but the guy who installed  mine said I should look for a difference of no more than 10 degrees (example-110 in 100 out) 

33
Plumbing / Re: Recommended flow rate for a 10 loop manifold
« on: November 01, 2016, 05:22:56 PM »
according to pex universe site, recommended flow for 1/2 is 0.6 gpm (300 foot loop max) should produce between22 and 30 btu per hour per square foot (9 to 12 inch spacing)

each additional 0.6 gpm will increase btu output 5 btu per square foot per hour

34
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: recommend induction motor
« on: October 23, 2016, 06:02:51 PM »
I have a Wood Doctor HE 5000 and the induction motor has gone out again.  the original seems to be a Fasco a n LR 6319.  That is the only thing close to a model number I can see on the label.  Last  years fan was  a Fasco D-130.  It worked good most of the season but started to peter out near the end.  So I bought a Fasco D-109.  Huge failure on my part there.  When the 109 runs it works great then apparently the thermal protect kicks in and nothing for 10 - 15 minutes.  The 130 was good but always seemed to labor.

The original motor worked great for 3 seasons before pooping out, had 1600 rpm.  That extra 100 r's make a big difference over the 130.

I can't seem to find the LR6319.  Any recommendations for a replacement Fasco or other wise that may last longer than 1 season?  And have really good draw at around 1600 - 1750 rpm.

Any help would be appreciated.  Back on propane until I get a new motor.

Rich
you might look in (if you are in America) Grainger or (Canada) acklandgrainger. they have both fasco and Dayton products that you might find helpful   both have online books to look through

35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: bl 2840 pump
« on: June 15, 2016, 06:41:19 PM »
my pump is in the basement, pulling from the top of the OWB and returning to the bottom, taco 0011, same pump since 2001

36
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Radiant in garage slab
« on: May 31, 2016, 06:50:02 PM »
Others out there with garage in slab systems, pressurized or non pressurized on the radiant side? I plan to fill the radiant side with antifreeze. I will keep the boiler and the radiant separate with a flat plate hx

make sure you have an expansion tank for the pressurized side (size of tank depends on many things,,,google amtrol hydronic expansion and you may find help)

37
HeatMaster / Re: Garage Heat Design?
« on: May 18, 2016, 07:48:30 PM »

Building a 30 x 40 garage/workshop and am wanting to put radiant heat in the floor from the Heatmaster. Bought it plenty big for the task but need designs for the plumbing.

Garage will be 2 car brick in construction, 2 x 6 walls, with 6/12 pitch roof with storage trusses. Walls and ceilings will be insulated well.

Any suggestions.

Thanks

Vince
you don't mention under the slab insulation?

38
I recently installed a 16 K standby and I think I could have gotten by with a lot less.

Here in Ontario Canada we have the ability to review our electric use on line about 24 hours later
so Monday we can view Sunday sort of thing. Plus we can choose to view it hourly each day

I have yet to see the Kilowatt hours ever go over 3  per hour and most times it is under 1. A high usage day for us right now is about 30 in a 24 hour period and has been as low as 24


39
General Discussion / Re: Electrical question for new garage build
« on: March 25, 2016, 06:19:36 PM »
I think I read that  your 6/3 wire (if copper)  will carry 60 amps to a max of up to 300  feet ( that is the wire manufactures rating I believe, what the electrical code of your area is I don't know) the chance you will have a draw of 60 amps is likely low.  I would ask what your current amp service is now. if it is only 100 amps then you may on occasion blow your main breaker when the house and garage over draw the main breaker (if you have a 200 amp service you will be fine)

I know a fella who wired his tombstone welder to a double pole 40 amp breaker (even though the instructions with the welder called for a 50 amp) and he said he has never blown the breaker. is it right, not likely but it works for him

perhaps a licensed electrician that knows the code in your area would be a good fella to have a chat with

40
2 years ago I paid 12.50 for logstor here in Ontario but the dealer said a price increase was coming and now with the low Canadian dollar it may be a lot more

I paid $13.25 in the fall of ’14.

so with Canadian exchange right now that would be about 17 or 18 Canadian "loonies" per foot

41
2 years ago I paid 12.50 for logstor here in Ontario but the dealer said a price increase was coming and now with the low Canadian dollar it may be a lot more

42
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Domestic hot water
« on: March 18, 2016, 03:50:33 PM »
in my opinion, you might as well leave power on to the hot water tank, it does not take much power to keep your water hot once there, the high cost of energy is to heat it from 50 degrees to your desired tempature there are other options but this is the easiest in my opinion as you are already plumbed up and running.

if you use very little hot water you could just bypass the hot water tank and use the plate exchanger to deliver "on demand"

add a small pump and circulate
add a thermo-syohon

43
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Radiant in garage slab
« on: March 12, 2016, 09:35:30 PM »
every thing I have read on this subject says your tubes should be within 2 inches of the finished floor

I’ve read just the opposite a few times, the lower in the pour the more evenly the heat spreads out.

If your using a product like Crete Heat the tube is at the bottom of the pour.

Well, those guys that invent this stuff know a lot more than me so I guess I should have read more, I stand corrected.
But if it was my floor I would ensure the whole slab was insulated including the vertical edges and I would still try and have my tubing nearer the finished floor than the bottom of the slab...I guess I'm still old school. 


44
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Radiant in garage slab
« on: March 12, 2016, 04:00:33 PM »
every thing I have read on this subject says your tubes should be within 2 inches of the finished floor

45
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Radiant in garage slab
« on: March 12, 2016, 06:13:39 AM »
I think if you look around on the net you will find clips that actually clip to the mesh and the pex and hold the mesh off the ground

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