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46
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Radiant in garage slab
« on: March 11, 2016, 04:57:38 PM »
I used to tie rebar (and install mesh) during my construction years. We used 4 x 4 x 1/4 mesh and never left it to the concrete guys to lift it (it very seldom stays there IF they do lift it! We always used cement bricks busted in half and placed every so often to hold the mesh at about middle of the pour or two inches from the surface. The bricks were made out of concrete and were 9 inches x 4 x 2.
47
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: A reminder
« on: March 01, 2016, 09:24:02 PM »
my home made stove is installed in an outbuilding has been since I first built one in 2002-3 winter season
to me both the building and the stove are replaceable and neither are insured. I like having about a half years wood indoors and dry. I like being out of the elements to load the stove. I keep half my wood inside and half outside and burn from the outside pile as long as the weather is decent enough and the snow has not covered my pile. when the weather is bad I use the indoor wood. If I was to have the price of a new gasser in a stove I may not have put it inside but I don't, so I do.
It is important to make sure that the floor is clean around the stove and if a coal gets out the door you scoop it back up and it is always a good idea to look back and make sure the door is closed before you exit the building
to me both the building and the stove are replaceable and neither are insured. I like having about a half years wood indoors and dry. I like being out of the elements to load the stove. I keep half my wood inside and half outside and burn from the outside pile as long as the weather is decent enough and the snow has not covered my pile. when the weather is bad I use the indoor wood. If I was to have the price of a new gasser in a stove I may not have put it inside but I don't, so I do.
It is important to make sure that the floor is clean around the stove and if a coal gets out the door you scoop it back up and it is always a good idea to look back and make sure the door is closed before you exit the building
48
Portage & Main / Re: Twins?: P&M EGR250 & Polar Furnace G3
« on: February 27, 2016, 06:03:22 AM »
as stated already the type of home you are heating will have a LOT to do with your btu usage.
well insulated with good windows ans such will require less btu per square foot than a leaky old century home that has hadlittle renovations done to it
lets just do a little math....200,000 btu devided by 40 btu per square foot per hour (used here in Ontario for guestimating and older home) would mean you could heat a 5000 square foot home on the coldest night of the year
now if you used that same 200,000 on a 14,000 square foot home you would get the result of about 14 btu per square foot! perhaps if you are living in florida you may be able to heat your home on the coldest night of the year?
I would say the guy telling you that you could heat between 4 and 6 thousand square feet is being far more honest
I have a small home that I used to rent out that had electric heat and I can tell you this...the home is in southern Ontario Canada, it only has an uninsulated crawl space (working on that) but it has new windows and 6 inch stud walls with pink fiberglass insulation and in the dead of winter (the coldest temps and wind) that little house could use about 30 btu per square foot and I have seen it use less than 10 btu per square foot on a winter day of just freezing but sunny outside
well insulated with good windows ans such will require less btu per square foot than a leaky old century home that has hadlittle renovations done to it
lets just do a little math....200,000 btu devided by 40 btu per square foot per hour (used here in Ontario for guestimating and older home) would mean you could heat a 5000 square foot home on the coldest night of the year
now if you used that same 200,000 on a 14,000 square foot home you would get the result of about 14 btu per square foot! perhaps if you are living in florida you may be able to heat your home on the coldest night of the year?
I would say the guy telling you that you could heat between 4 and 6 thousand square feet is being far more honest
I have a small home that I used to rent out that had electric heat and I can tell you this...the home is in southern Ontario Canada, it only has an uninsulated crawl space (working on that) but it has new windows and 6 inch stud walls with pink fiberglass insulation and in the dead of winter (the coldest temps and wind) that little house could use about 30 btu per square foot and I have seen it use less than 10 btu per square foot on a winter day of just freezing but sunny outside
49
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: thumbs up for logstor pipe
« on: February 25, 2016, 07:47:12 PM »
the lessons we learn the hard way are the ones we remember the best (and there are lots of us here that know this one)
50
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Could lose power can you help with this question PLEASE
« on: February 25, 2016, 06:38:07 PM »
just installed it in November...well now I know it does what it is supposed to do, not just that weekly test thing
51
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Could lose power can you help with this question PLEASE
« on: February 25, 2016, 04:14:53 PM »
my 16 kw generator kicked in about 1 pm but was only needed for about 3 hours
52
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Could lose power can you help with this question PLEASE
« on: February 24, 2016, 09:39:26 PM »
just installed a generator this year, have not used it yet. 16 KW, enough to power the whole place here
guess I am waiting for the storm of the century to try it out NOT
guess I am waiting for the storm of the century to try it out NOT
53
Hardy / Re: looking at a lightly used H-4
« on: February 22, 2016, 09:43:16 PM »
just a thought...heat your hot water with a side arm or heat exchanger and keep the loop in the stove intended for your domestic hot water for possibly a work shop or other building where you might like heat part time. you could use the loop in the stove for an antifreeze mixture that would allow you to only run this loop when you wanted to heat that building (it would require an expansion tank)
54
Equipment / Re: Hydraulics question
« on: February 20, 2016, 07:11:47 PM »
I think you would need a single acting valve to go with your mast
55
Equipment / Re: Chain Freeze
« on: February 17, 2016, 05:57:19 PM »Don't know how many of you are in the bush cutting now.??As you know I live in the south part of the province Kenny, I never go to the bush if it is that cold (normal for you in the north) I think my air temps when I go to the bush never get below -10C (or I don't go) but I still make sure i use good thin winter time oil. the only time I ever get a chain stopped up full of wood chips is if I happen the cut a piece of wood lengthwise and get them long chips that get jammed up in the clutch area. Don't stop for so many "soda breaks" and your saw will stay warm enough to avoid freezing bah hah
I'm in the woods twice a week for a few hours. [-20's]20 inches of snow]
I noticed my saw jammed, while bucking up some logs.
I took it home, cleaned it,, and went back out.
Jammed again.....
Well its not jammed,,, it picks up snow and chips and then freezes.[frozen sludge]
Figured it out,,, and what I do is,hold the saw body and dogs away from the log 4-5 inches.[long bar helps]
This allows the snow and chips to go into the air, instead of the saw.
Not being able to use the dogs to cut is a pain,, but she don't get jammed.
Never cut in the winter before,, so did not know.
Learn something new every day..........
56
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Ridgewood going out of business
« on: February 16, 2016, 09:28:51 PM »
I don't think there would be a problem When I was a young fella, around here all the heavy machinery ran on straight water all summer because dozers and excavators and tiling machines and such equipment was left on the job (and often it was in the middle of no where) and if you dared leave a hint of that sweet antifreeze smell, your rad would be drained nightly!
57
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Well, I do believe...
« on: February 16, 2016, 05:15:28 PM »this is what you mean when you say you get a 12 hour burn from 1 wheel barrow of wood Kenny?
58
Electronics / Re: ???? on temp
« on: February 14, 2016, 03:10:00 PM »
my first question would be....when you cant get your house over 70 degrees in the extreme cold, does your OWB ever get to the set temp and the blower shut off?
if the answer is yes then you could try turning up the off and on temps some. perhaps you need to have a larger heat exchanger in your furnace?
it is obvious that in the extreme cold you are unable to deliver enough btu to the home to compensate for the btu losses
first thing to check is...is your OWB capable of producing the needed btu and are your lines and exchanger capable of delivering those btu
if the answer is yes then you could try turning up the off and on temps some. perhaps you need to have a larger heat exchanger in your furnace?
it is obvious that in the extreme cold you are unable to deliver enough btu to the home to compensate for the btu losses
first thing to check is...is your OWB capable of producing the needed btu and are your lines and exchanger capable of delivering those btu
59
Heatmor / Re: Boiler temp drop math
« on: February 13, 2016, 01:50:06 PM »
I read where you said 8 dollars a month to run your hot water heater
8 dollars a month and we guess it is 9 cents per KWH means you get about 10 kwh for a buck or 80 per month for 8 bucks. a KWH - 3412 btu x 80 = (rounded) 273,000 btu lets say you are heating water from 60 degrees to 130 degrees, that's a 70 degree rise and that can be said to be 616 btu per gallon so for the month you could heat about 443 gallons of water. or about 14 gallons per day
but back to the 273,000 btu for 9 cents per kwh for 8 dollars it is said that we can recover about 6,800 btu from a pound of wood (at 100 percent efficient) so lets make a guess you are about 60 percent so you could recoup about 4000 btu per pound so that 273,000 that you paid 8 dollars for will cost you about 68 pounds of wood (more likely 100)
8 dollars a month and we guess it is 9 cents per KWH means you get about 10 kwh for a buck or 80 per month for 8 bucks. a KWH - 3412 btu x 80 = (rounded) 273,000 btu lets say you are heating water from 60 degrees to 130 degrees, that's a 70 degree rise and that can be said to be 616 btu per gallon so for the month you could heat about 443 gallons of water. or about 14 gallons per day
but back to the 273,000 btu for 9 cents per kwh for 8 dollars it is said that we can recover about 6,800 btu from a pound of wood (at 100 percent efficient) so lets make a guess you are about 60 percent so you could recoup about 4000 btu per pound so that 273,000 that you paid 8 dollars for will cost you about 68 pounds of wood (more likely 100)
60
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: explain this
« on: January 22, 2016, 05:03:20 PM »
haven't been following this too closely but I can tell you that over the life of my old Honeywell aquastat I have been turning it down almost every year. right now I have it set to 145 off and on at 10 less, my actual water temps on the gauge in the house is 170 hot and 158 low