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61
Plumbing / Re: Replacement pump size?
« on: January 13, 2016, 09:18:05 PM »
I am using my original taco 0011 that went into operation in 2002, I turn it off in the spring and turn it on in the fall, However,in recent applications I have been using grundfos pumps at my sons and my other property as I have found a local supplier that is easy to deal with. I personally think both these makes of pumps work good. I don't really know what the power consumption is on these pumps of equal size but I would trust either brand equally?
62
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Oil is now so cheap I'm giving my OWB a break!
« on: January 12, 2016, 06:58:17 PM »
a couple of years ago my son paid for one fill up of his propane tank 1.14 per liter (that prompted me to build him an OWB) This year I installed a whole house generator that uses propane (I have no natural gas near me) and my fill up price was 49.9 per litre, that was in December I am thinking it may be less now?
63
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Jan 10
« on: January 10, 2016, 08:33:58 PM »
same weather here as well some drifting and snow has slowed to flurries, started out this morning well above freezing and mostly rain but now is at 19F as well
64
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: YTD usage 15/16
« on: January 03, 2016, 04:59:39 PM »
240 feet of my 250 is under gravel driveway that is mostly kept snow free all winter, in recent years I have started pushing snow over the pipes where I can, now I can keep about 1/3 of the underground length covered but with the varying winters we have been having I cant really say if I am saving any wood or not.
65
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: YTD usage 15/16
« on: January 03, 2016, 03:45:46 PM »same amount in the old silver bullet ( I dream of half the wood usage they say a gasser would bring me but I cant see me spending that amount of money)
250 feet of underground pipe (even though it is logstor) I know is costing me some large btu's as well
the underground pipe cost 3 times what the stove cost me..lol
scrimp everywhere you can BUT the underground lines
I have about 235’ in the ground but in two runs, not sure how you can do any better other than sliding whatever you use inside some 6” PVC to add yet more thermal break.
not saying I could do any better but the length does add up the losses. if you use a 1 degree loss per 100 feet at 5 gpm and 32 degree soil temp, as they quote in their brochure... that's about 2.5 cords of wood for my average run time of 180 days. if I could (wife wont have it) move my stove to 100 feet I think that would only be about 1 cord extra
66
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: YTD usage 15/16
« on: January 02, 2016, 04:32:53 PM »
same amount in the old silver bullet ( I dream of half the wood usage they say a gasser would bring me but I cant see me spending that amount of money)
250 feet of underground pipe (even though it is logstor) I know is costing me some large btu's as well
the underground pipe cost 3 times what the stove cost me..lol
scrimp everywhere you can BUT the underground lines
250 feet of underground pipe (even though it is logstor) I know is costing me some large btu's as well
the underground pipe cost 3 times what the stove cost me..lol
scrimp everywhere you can BUT the underground lines
67
Plumbing / Re: First Failed Pump
« on: January 01, 2016, 12:51:13 AM »
the taco paper work I have seen says all 00 pumps should be mounted with motor horizontal. One exception is it can be mounted with motor vertical UP if there is at least 20 psi in the system
68
Plumbing / Re: Photo’s of G400 hookup
« on: December 22, 2015, 04:14:15 PM »When eveything is at idol the wood boiler is at 195 and the oil burner is is at 170 all zone valves closed on a warm day I can plug the oil burner in and it fires up and run to 180 and shut off ! That's what I can't figure out!
seems to me this sounds like when everything is at idle there is no water circulation into the boiler reserve or the temp gauge on the boiler would rise (unless it is in a line and not in the reserve tank? could there be a check valve in your boiler piping preventing you from pushing any water into the tank unless one of your zones is open and water can get in then?
at idle after a bit of time your boiler reserve tank and your OWB should be very close to the same temp
I would be looking at every inch of your piping and make sure it is going to and coming from your reserve tank unrestricted by any valve or check valve and make sure your temp gauge is in that tank
69
Plumbing / Re: Photo’s of G400 hookup
« on: December 20, 2015, 08:07:31 PM »
my question would be how many gallons of reserve does the indoor boiler have? I am going to guess there is not enough reserve water to hold the btu's needed for an extended run time(cold day) of the indoor boiler.
I am also going to guess the indoor boiler is moving more water due to less head with the same 007 pump so it will be rising less than the 7 degrees that the OWB is giving up.
another factor is heat exchanging between the fluids will be less the closer the two fluids are in temp
more gpm from the OWB would help ( I think) but I don't know to what extent
a larger reserve for the boiler to draw from would hold more btu for the next burn and it could draw more btu from the OWB for storage
unless (like it has been said) that your indoor boiler water is moving way to slow due to restrictions, I think your boiler may have a very small reserve?
if you are losing 7 degrees and we guessed your 007 is moving 6 gpm that would be about 25000 btu per hour (if you have the storage to accept it) if you need more and your system is working as it should you will need to increase the gpm from the OWB in order to (hopefully) push more btu into the indoor boiler water
I am also going to guess the indoor boiler is moving more water due to less head with the same 007 pump so it will be rising less than the 7 degrees that the OWB is giving up.
another factor is heat exchanging between the fluids will be less the closer the two fluids are in temp
more gpm from the OWB would help ( I think) but I don't know to what extent
a larger reserve for the boiler to draw from would hold more btu for the next burn and it could draw more btu from the OWB for storage
unless (like it has been said) that your indoor boiler water is moving way to slow due to restrictions, I think your boiler may have a very small reserve?
if you are losing 7 degrees and we guessed your 007 is moving 6 gpm that would be about 25000 btu per hour (if you have the storage to accept it) if you need more and your system is working as it should you will need to increase the gpm from the OWB in order to (hopefully) push more btu into the indoor boiler water
70
Central Boiler / Re: i need to run another loop. Question on draining
« on: December 05, 2015, 03:27:48 PM »
I'm in agreement with whomever said..get everything ready, make sure you have room to turn the valve and (likely) nipple, back the plug out and when ready make the quick switch. (of course after you have let the water cool down to a temp that you are comfortable with getting on your skin) you should be able to do the switch with only losing a cup or two of water.
you should be able to back out the plug until it is loose and pretty much only your hands pressure is holding it in place, holding the valve in your "good" hand right next to the plug....make the switch, pull the plug out and get the nipple in the hole right away then start threading it in.
at the very worst if you are handy at all I can't imagine loosing more than a gallon but it should be a lot less
be sure you have your thread sealant or Teflon tape on the new parts before you begin the swithc
you should be able to back out the plug until it is loose and pretty much only your hands pressure is holding it in place, holding the valve in your "good" hand right next to the plug....make the switch, pull the plug out and get the nipple in the hole right away then start threading it in.
at the very worst if you are handy at all I can't imagine loosing more than a gallon but it should be a lot less
be sure you have your thread sealant or Teflon tape on the new parts before you begin the swithc
71
Plumbing / Re: 90 Degree Turn Copper Fitting Options
« on: November 29, 2015, 08:20:21 PM »
copper can be tight and neat and it gives off more heat than the pex. if you don't mind leaking heat where your pipes run
when my 1 inch pex enters the home I go straight into a 1 inch copper header and then down to 3/4 copper for my hot water tank and furnace exchanger and then to 1/2 inch pex for floor heat (one loop) and 1/2 inch pex to a small exchanger in my fireplace
what leaks off the copper keeps the furnace room warm and dry
when my 1 inch pex enters the home I go straight into a 1 inch copper header and then down to 3/4 copper for my hot water tank and furnace exchanger and then to 1/2 inch pex for floor heat (one loop) and 1/2 inch pex to a small exchanger in my fireplace
what leaks off the copper keeps the furnace room warm and dry
72
Plumbing / Re: 1in or 1-1/4in plumbing?
« on: November 28, 2015, 07:26:45 PM »
both 1.25 pex and 1 inch copper (type M) are very close to each other for friction loss. I doubt most folks would notice much difference with the pipe. copper fitting (elbows tees and such) have less friction loss than pex but in most cases you will use less pex fittings so that likely comes out as a wash as well. ((I think a 90 in 1 inch copper is equal to about 2.5 feet of pipe and one in the pex would be between 10 and 18 feet of pipe depending on style of fitting))
73
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what do you look for in a water to air Heat Exchanger?
« on: November 24, 2015, 04:31:46 PM »
it says in the top corner of the link you provided "sold by outdoor furnace supply" I have bought a couple from them and have had good luck
74
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: man ! I'm going thru some wood ! and what i tried with coal...
« on: November 23, 2015, 06:45:17 PM »
the lower your feed water into the slab the less btu of output the floor has. I have no real idea but I would agree that you want to be able to meet the demand for the room and have the loop "idle" some but not too much. I start my loop at about 100 and as winter sets in I bump it to 110
most charts indicate water temps going into a slab at 90 degrees will output 10 btu per square foot...110 degrees, 20 btu, 130 degrees 30+ btu and 150 degrees will emit 40+ btu per square foot (this is if spacing for the size of pipe in your slab is followed per normal spacings)
most charts indicate water temps going into a slab at 90 degrees will output 10 btu per square foot...110 degrees, 20 btu, 130 degrees 30+ btu and 150 degrees will emit 40+ btu per square foot (this is if spacing for the size of pipe in your slab is followed per normal spacings)
75
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Need a Permanent t fix
« on: November 17, 2015, 03:54:31 AM »
I have drilled a wee little hole through both the blade and the slip on connector and twisted a number 14 piece of copper wire around them
or you could put anything through the hole such as a small sheet metal screw or a cotter pin. I liked the wire, it can fit in the tight space and is easily removable when replacement is needed
or you could put anything through the hole such as a small sheet metal screw or a cotter pin. I liked the wire, it can fit in the tight space and is easily removable when replacement is needed