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Plumbing / Re: underground piping
« on: November 19, 2010, 08:22:05 AM »
I also visited a new Subaru dealership, and they have a Reznor boiler, 350,000BTU, and they're happy with it. They also have too much oil, and sell the excess to a hauler for .25 a gallon.
I called the plumbing installer, his work pictured, and they havn't called back yet.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
I called the plumbing installer, his work pictured, and they havn't called back yet.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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Plumbing / Re: underground piping
« on: November 19, 2010, 08:20:28 AM »
Before I buy anything, I'll get firm price quotes. My wife is VERY fussy about that. No playing around. We'll figure the volume, and get a cooperative foamer. It's a slower pace of life around here, and the truck drivers are under less pressure. The foamer will prolly be the owner of the company, and I don't like sticking it to anyone, as it's a small community, and word gets around, keeps everyone honest.
I'll have some drilled blocks of pine to install in the sewer pipe to hold the PEX in place to center it. Maybe every 3-4-5 feet? Sounds like alot of blocks, but the PEX will want to droop to the outside/bottom of the corr. Maybe I'll just need a 2" wide stick of wood with a 1/2 circle to hold the PEX in place???
Maybe we'll spray the bottom of the corr 1/2 first, let it set, then draw pipes thru, then foam the balance... It'll be trial and error. These forums are fantastic fer ideas BEFORE the big GOOF!!!
I'll have some drilled blocks of pine to install in the sewer pipe to hold the PEX in place to center it. Maybe every 3-4-5 feet? Sounds like alot of blocks, but the PEX will want to droop to the outside/bottom of the corr. Maybe I'll just need a 2" wide stick of wood with a 1/2 circle to hold the PEX in place???
Maybe we'll spray the bottom of the corr 1/2 first, let it set, then draw pipes thru, then foam the balance... It'll be trial and error. These forums are fantastic fer ideas BEFORE the big GOOF!!!
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What's OB Pex?
As far as 240f, I was just stating how hot the oil boiler can get the water, but the manufacturer sets it at 180f, I beleive. And to keep the return above 140, to avoid corrosion, there's a mixing valve to add hot outlet water to the return
As far as 240f, I was just stating how hot the oil boiler can get the water, but the manufacturer sets it at 180f, I beleive. And to keep the return above 140, to avoid corrosion, there's a mixing valve to add hot outlet water to the return
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: If you could do it all over agian, which boiler would you get?
« on: November 17, 2010, 10:25:26 PM »
The whole idea of these forums IS to mind other folks business. Otherwise I would make an uneducated decision, and wish I woulda' known the pitfalls BEFORE, but of course, then it's too late. So read, and comment, and be the Devils advocate... No problemo...
The house DOES have a very nicely built fireplace, stone over cement block, with gaps for air circulation aided by a hidden fan. There's also a wood boiler in the basement, next to the oil boiler. Maybe I'd put up with the wood required for the house, but we're buying the place because of the large warehouse, and that's heated by propane, I think, with direct ceiling heaters.
I'll have to buy a few "Modines". Prolly not a hard to find item, as they were made for a Zillion years. I do all my own plumbing, gas and oil installs, electrical, etc. So I can buy any used Junk, and make it work.
I plan to buy a 1000 gallon oil storage tank with a work bench work surface, and fill it during the summer, when oil shops have more oil than they can give away. In the winter, it'll be scarce, much like finding cord wood or wood pellets, or even oil! I will fill out the load chart once we close the deal on the prop, and figure out what space I'll use, what's insulated, what'll be rented, etc. I may have the faom truck spray some uninsulated walls when we do the trench to the house for the buried water lines.
The house DOES have a very nicely built fireplace, stone over cement block, with gaps for air circulation aided by a hidden fan. There's also a wood boiler in the basement, next to the oil boiler. Maybe I'd put up with the wood required for the house, but we're buying the place because of the large warehouse, and that's heated by propane, I think, with direct ceiling heaters.
I'll have to buy a few "Modines". Prolly not a hard to find item, as they were made for a Zillion years. I do all my own plumbing, gas and oil installs, electrical, etc. So I can buy any used Junk, and make it work.
I plan to buy a 1000 gallon oil storage tank with a work bench work surface, and fill it during the summer, when oil shops have more oil than they can give away. In the winter, it'll be scarce, much like finding cord wood or wood pellets, or even oil! I will fill out the load chart once we close the deal on the prop, and figure out what space I'll use, what's insulated, what'll be rented, etc. I may have the faom truck spray some uninsulated walls when we do the trench to the house for the buried water lines.
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Plumbing / Re: underground piping
« on: November 17, 2010, 10:14:03 PM »
I would rather use 8 or 10" of foam inside a sewer pipe. I have to use the sewer pipe, and the driveway is between the house a shop. Lots of tarmac, as it's a turnaround for the overhead doors of the shop, and garage attached to the house. An easy 125', maybe more! When we close on the prop, I'll obviously get an accurate measurement!
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Plumbing / Re: underground piping
« on: November 17, 2010, 06:45:10 AM »
My wife and I are buying a 1500SqFt (Log) house with a 5400SqFt warehouse. We're planning to heat the warehouse with a Waste Oil Boiler, as it's zoned commercial, and I will be doing Fleet repairs to my cars and lite trucks, and rustproofing vehicles with grease. Anyways, the house is about 125 feet away, separated by the driveway, soooooooo.....
I priced the blue 4" corr plastic with two 1 1/4 pipes, and locally it's $15 -$18 a foot, which IMO, is NUTS!!! A freind found various other similar UP (underground piping) for alot less, but I was concerned about the heat loss with only about 1" of insulation.
Soooooo..... without having read this post, I thought to buy 8 or 10" corrugated ridgid sewer pipe, barrier PEX suitable for the heat of the boiler, which can exit as high as 240f, but I'll run it much less if neccesary, and have a foam truck on the site to fill the sewer pipe as I lowered it into place, using some kind of brace to center the piping. Possibly 1" wood with two 1 1/2" holes inserted every few feet as we went along.
One of the things the Clean Burn Boiler (waste oil) tech told me was return temp must be above 140f, and below that, ash will condense on the boiler tubes, causing corrosion. To avoid this, I'd go with the extra closed cell foam in the trench, and they have a tempering valve to add outlet hot water to the return to maintain adequate temp
I'd have to use the corr sewer pipe as opposed to just foam in a trench with poly, as the whse is separated by the driveway.
Here's the prices I got...
Heat Barrier PEX 1 1/4" 20' @ $56
Heat Barrier PEX 2" @ $115
Corrugated roll 6" 100' @$140
Corrugated Ridgid 8" 1 foot @$6.50
Corrugated Ridgid 10" 1 foot@$10.50
Spray foam truck? No Clue, but I'd budget $1000
I priced the blue 4" corr plastic with two 1 1/4 pipes, and locally it's $15 -$18 a foot, which IMO, is NUTS!!! A freind found various other similar UP (underground piping) for alot less, but I was concerned about the heat loss with only about 1" of insulation.
Soooooo..... without having read this post, I thought to buy 8 or 10" corrugated ridgid sewer pipe, barrier PEX suitable for the heat of the boiler, which can exit as high as 240f, but I'll run it much less if neccesary, and have a foam truck on the site to fill the sewer pipe as I lowered it into place, using some kind of brace to center the piping. Possibly 1" wood with two 1 1/2" holes inserted every few feet as we went along.
One of the things the Clean Burn Boiler (waste oil) tech told me was return temp must be above 140f, and below that, ash will condense on the boiler tubes, causing corrosion. To avoid this, I'd go with the extra closed cell foam in the trench, and they have a tempering valve to add outlet hot water to the return to maintain adequate temp
I'd have to use the corr sewer pipe as opposed to just foam in a trench with poly, as the whse is separated by the driveway.
Here's the prices I got...
Heat Barrier PEX 1 1/4" 20' @ $56
Heat Barrier PEX 2" @ $115
Corrugated roll 6" 100' @$140
Corrugated Ridgid 8" 1 foot @$6.50
Corrugated Ridgid 10" 1 foot@$10.50
Spray foam truck? No Clue, but I'd budget $1000
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: If you could do it all over agian, which boiler would you get?
« on: November 17, 2010, 06:21:09 AM »
My wife and I have decided to got with a Waste Oil Boiler. I can get a good supply of used engine oil easier than cutting, hauling and splitting wood
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: If you could do it all over agian, which boiler would you get?
« on: November 06, 2010, 10:21:35 AM »
I read this post, all 3 pages, and it makes me think about what I drive.
A 1984 GMC Suburban wtih the 6.2 Diesel, 250,000 miles, and a '93 Hyundai Excel, and I collect Corvairs.
Who could ask for a more re-knowned group of Orphan cars?
The Hyundai's were junk, I find the seats a little thin, otherwise it's a great car. The Suburban has the much hated 6.2. I have several of these, and don't have trouble, they just aren't as tough as a Cummins for instance. the turbo 6.5 takes a beating, but they're cheaper, so I just take it easy.
And the Corvairs. They leak oil, but they're the cheapest collectible out there, parts are plentiful, and they're economical too! Go fill up the tank on an SS396 Chevelle, or 383 Roadrunner. I get low 20's with my '64 4 Speed Monza convertible. I also have a Turbo Spyder, that gets 15, but has a racing engine!
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
A 1984 GMC Suburban wtih the 6.2 Diesel, 250,000 miles, and a '93 Hyundai Excel, and I collect Corvairs.
Who could ask for a more re-knowned group of Orphan cars?
The Hyundai's were junk, I find the seats a little thin, otherwise it's a great car. The Suburban has the much hated 6.2. I have several of these, and don't have trouble, they just aren't as tough as a Cummins for instance. the turbo 6.5 takes a beating, but they're cheaper, so I just take it easy.
And the Corvairs. They leak oil, but they're the cheapest collectible out there, parts are plentiful, and they're economical too! Go fill up the tank on an SS396 Chevelle, or 383 Roadrunner. I get low 20's with my '64 4 Speed Monza convertible. I also have a Turbo Spyder, that gets 15, but has a racing engine!
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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Central Boiler / Was Wondering About Warranty On CB Units...
« on: November 06, 2010, 09:48:47 AM »
I was perusing their site, and didn't see anything about warranty...
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Heatmor / Re: Contemplating an OWB
« on: November 06, 2010, 09:47:24 AM »
Hi, I'm a newby, and posted a general intro to myself here...
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=706.0
So I suppose I should buy something that's available locally, far NE upstate NY, Plattsburgh, 12901
1,200 SqFt log house with a 60x90 Warehouse
Central Boiler is one brand sold nearby. A friend said not to look at anything but Heatmore, but I suppose that's like a car brand. BTW, I collect Corvairs, drive an '84 Suburban 4x4 Diesel as a DD, and a '93 Hyundai Excel as a commuter car
I have hundreds of acres of woodlot, but I've never done more than cut down an occasional tree to clear a logging road. I don't think I've ever run a log splitter! The wood is 15 miles away, and plenty of folks sell cut and split cordwood locally, as we're just outside the Adirondacks
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=706.0
So I suppose I should buy something that's available locally, far NE upstate NY, Plattsburgh, 12901
1,200 SqFt log house with a 60x90 Warehouse
Central Boiler is one brand sold nearby. A friend said not to look at anything but Heatmore, but I suppose that's like a car brand. BTW, I collect Corvairs, drive an '84 Suburban 4x4 Diesel as a DD, and a '93 Hyundai Excel as a commuter car
I have hundreds of acres of woodlot, but I've never done more than cut down an occasional tree to clear a logging road. I don't think I've ever run a log splitter! The wood is 15 miles away, and plenty of folks sell cut and split cordwood locally, as we're just outside the Adirondacks
13
Site Suggestions / Re: I'm new here... So where do I start???
« on: November 06, 2010, 09:14:43 AM »
Here's a link to the house, while the listing is active
http://www.bastraightrealestate.com/residential/3125/3125.htm
And the warehouse
http://www.bastraightrealestate.com/commercial/3126/3126.htm
http://www.bastraightrealestate.com/residential/3125/3125.htm
And the warehouse
http://www.bastraightrealestate.com/commercial/3126/3126.htm
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Site Suggestions / I'm new here... So where do I start???
« on: November 06, 2010, 09:11:57 AM »
My wife and I are buying a new (old) house, 1200 Sq Ft, 1 floor, and it's heated with oil, (hot water), and a wood boiler in the basement, and a wood fireplace with a blower built in upstairs. I really don't want to lug wood indoors, or have the smoke and soot issues.
It's a 1 story house, built of machined wood logs with modern windows. There's also a 60x90 warehouse with 12 foot ceilings
So we're thinking about an outdoor wood boiler. I briefly looked at a Central Boiler $9,000 unit that meets 2010 emission laws if hardwood is burned.
We're in no rush, as the warehouse needs a new well and septic, and we want to install some fencing and cedar hedges... and our business is down...
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
It's a 1 story house, built of machined wood logs with modern windows. There's also a 60x90 warehouse with 12 foot ceilings
So we're thinking about an outdoor wood boiler. I briefly looked at a Central Boiler $9,000 unit that meets 2010 emission laws if hardwood is burned.
We're in no rush, as the warehouse needs a new well and septic, and we want to install some fencing and cedar hedges... and our business is down...
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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