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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: man this forum has dropped off.....
« on: January 30, 2019, 01:14:58 PM »
Yep. Many here are on FB groups. You get used to scrolling past the drama. I just sent a jeep FB group guy to a FB group and here to research boilers.
2
Electronics / Re: WiFi Thermostat to control Central Boiler
« on: November 06, 2017, 09:59:01 AM »
Schoppy,
Getting back to your question regarding my Bard that doesn't start dependably. Not old LP as it still does it today and has been running fro a few weeks now. eventually after cycling it eventually starts.
to answer your question of last winter, the auto ignite keeps clicking (with good spark) but never lights the pilot/burner. I have had 3 guys look at it including the installer back in '95 who even called the factory. Manifold pressure has been checked in past, pilot orifice has been changed out/over sized, undersized with no change. Shutter has been slid open to max. Slid shut to closed-no effect. If I give it a good blow I can get it to ignite sometimes. We have theorized gas is blowing too fast to get to pilot, etc but no change when we played with it.
It has cycled 3-4 times without lighting. So I waited till next cycle and blew a good burst of air in and it fired right up. Crazy.
Once lit, all rails are burning with nice blue flames out of ports.
Getting back to your question regarding my Bard that doesn't start dependably. Not old LP as it still does it today and has been running fro a few weeks now. eventually after cycling it eventually starts.
to answer your question of last winter, the auto ignite keeps clicking (with good spark) but never lights the pilot/burner. I have had 3 guys look at it including the installer back in '95 who even called the factory. Manifold pressure has been checked in past, pilot orifice has been changed out/over sized, undersized with no change. Shutter has been slid open to max. Slid shut to closed-no effect. If I give it a good blow I can get it to ignite sometimes. We have theorized gas is blowing too fast to get to pilot, etc but no change when we played with it.
It has cycled 3-4 times without lighting. So I waited till next cycle and blew a good burst of air in and it fired right up. Crazy.
Once lit, all rails are burning with nice blue flames out of ports.
3
Electronics / Re: Help GOING CRAZY!!! One thermostat to control two heat sources
« on: November 05, 2017, 12:06:12 AM »
Reviving an old thread but I read in a review of the Honeywell Th8320 WiFi that a guy successfully used it with his wood boiler and LP gas furnace. No idea how it was wired though. I am still digging as I have the TH8320 already before I installed the boiler.
Ok team – I have worn out the search function on this site and I think I have a fairly simple problem I’m trying to solve, help is appreciated; here it goes:
Looking to run one thermostat to control two heat sources:
System configuration:
- Outdoor boiler on/off on aqua stat in the unit & pump runs 24 x 7 (so no need to control anything out there)
- Inside forced hot air system with water to air heat exchanger
The issue; I’ve tried a number of professional Honeywell thermostats ( I have the 7600 right now) to control two heat sources. The heat pump with emergency backup is out as I have no heat pump and I don’t want my condenser running while I’m trying to heat. So I went to the two stage heat, it works but I can’t configure the settings, I can’t change the temperatures. I called Honeywell to verify my connections they said everything was correct and the only way to use any Honeywell in this configuration is to use the non configurable two stage heat. I’ve attached a picture of what I have done, the yellow lines are how I’m setup in the 2 heat stage mode and it works but the furnace kicks on after about five min of the fan just running so it defats the purpose of running the OWB. I realize I can go the two thermo route – just feel like we are smarter than this problem and I just have the wrong thermo – any thoughts? Trying to stay away from adding switches (I can think of a few ways to do that) and or additionally relays, trying to make this as straight forward for the wife and kids while I’m away on business. HELP!!!
Thanks,
Jamie
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cutting concrete ona dime-Best practice?
« on: October 13, 2017, 01:56:04 PM »
To close out this thread, I blocked in a square in the corner outside and framed and sided it with T1-11. Cut hole in wall and drywall. was a long journey but it's installed.
5
Plumbing / CPVC interaction with hot water from boiler
« on: October 13, 2017, 07:26:41 AM »
My house is plumbed with CPVC which has a max heat of 200 degrees. Since heat from a plate HX would theoretically be around 180 or less, I assume you can still run the hotter water from a plate HX for domestic hot water?
I would splice in the plate HX in copper or galvanized pipe then convert back to the a short distance down the line. My water heater is a tankless water heater so would bypass it in the winter time.
I would splice in the plate HX in copper or galvanized pipe then convert back to the a short distance down the line. My water heater is a tankless water heater so would bypass it in the winter time.
6
Plumbing / Re: Standard copper unions or dielectric?
« on: October 13, 2017, 07:21:45 AM »M for heat, L for domestic water.
your reversed on this. My research, Copper M is for general residential use. domestic water, in the wall, etc. It is thinner. Copper L is for commercial and hot water systems. It is thicker. This is probably the better choice for our systems.
Incidentally Copper L is also used to plumb air compressors in automotive shops as well. There is special stress solder that is recommended to thwart cracks in solder from vibrations of the compressor.
7
Plumbing / Types of Copper
« on: October 13, 2017, 07:17:14 AM »
Was searching the forum for confirmation of what type copper to use in my system. I did find one post that I believe had the types reversed in its answer. My recollection, Copper M is for general residential use. domestic water, in the wall, etc. It is thinner. Copper L is for commercial and hot water systems. It is thicker. This is probably the better choice for our systems.
Incidentally Copper L is also used to plumb air compressors in automotive shops as well. There is special stress solder that is recommended to thwart cracks in solder from vibrations of the compressor.
Incidentally Copper L is also used to plumb air compressors in automotive shops as well. There is special stress solder that is recommended to thwart cracks in solder from vibrations of the compressor.
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: More Moderators
« on: September 15, 2017, 08:30:23 AM »Like some of the cars awhile back that you had to tilt the engine to change the rear bank of spark plugs.
The wife’s Liberty hasn’t been bad to work on though, I did pay the garage awhile back to change both valve cover gaskets and a power steering line. The power steering line went up by the headlight, then back along the inner fender, under the battery, under the fuse box, under something else, then back to the power steering pump. Only the trail rated Liberties had that, was considered power steering cooling.
Wait till u replace the starter. While some claim u have to remove the front driveshaft, I was able to remove it without as some claimed. After an hour wiggling, I had my son try. No good. Then he twisted it and it literately fell to the floor. The challenge is installing the three bolts on the starter heat plate once it is in position. Was able to get 2.
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: More Moderators
« on: September 14, 2017, 09:37:52 PM »
Dealer showed up. They have to take the tractor back to the shop and remove the radiator to install the belt
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Door gasket material
« on: September 14, 2017, 02:22:34 PM »
Yup, Marty is either trying to make me feel better for my lack of memory, or he's trying to justify his own!
Both actually
Still haven’t found that bag of packings and seals
They were in your shirt pocket. Your wife found them in the lint trap. She put them in the trash which you hauled to the dumpster.
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: No room for heat exchanger
« on: September 14, 2017, 02:19:00 PM »Best of luck at your meeting!
The CB 6048 is already installed and 75' of Thermapex ran to the office/nature center. The run in question is to my residence so I am the mercy of the board as I pay my own utilities. Looks like a little over $5K will install the pex and HX plus plumbing. That's a big chunk for a nonprofit these days.
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: No room for heat exchanger
« on: September 14, 2017, 01:38:03 PM »
To put closure on this thread. I successfully raised my a-coil 6" so I have room for a HX. Assuming I get approval from the board tonight (monthly board meeting for the nonprofit), I plan to install 1.26” (32mm I.D.) Logstore which is about same I.D. size as the 1 1/4 thermapox. Head should be under 17 so a Grundfos 26-99FC will work.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: More Moderators
« on: September 14, 2017, 01:29:20 PM »This site is easy to moderate actually, I also take care of a farming/forage site, you can’t imagine how ugly it can get there come towards the end of winter when all the farmers are getting cabin fever. Silly little pissing matches over JD vs IH vs NH are common just for starters.
T /gkick
Marty,
Is this the JD vs IH vs NH thread
Well I would have to think long and hard about buying a Case/IH 75C. This is my 3rd year leasing and all had issues. Granted, my lease costs me a dollar for 120 hrs on a nonprofit program and I am extremely grateful but I, as well as the local dealer service manger are getting pretty frustrated with the quality control. Parts are in. My dealers field truck is coming any minute.
BTW, as some may not know the Case/IH and Ford/New Holland tractor is made in the same factory. They have had quality control issues before according to the dealer. I feel for any unlucky farmer who buys them so I am doing my part to discover the issues within the first 120 hrs
At least that is what I keep telling myself 14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / A-Coil placement
« on: September 14, 2017, 01:08:03 PM »
I successfully raised my A-Coil 6" yesterday so I can JUST slip in my HX. When I popped the plenum open on my forced air LP furnace, I saw that there was a aluminum box spacer on each side of the A-coil but it wasn't blocking the side completely so air was forced to only travel through the A-coil.
I assume that just like the HX, the space around the A-coil should be blocked so 100% of the air goes through the a-coil for maximum transfer of cold to the air. We are talking at least 3"x 10" on each side of gaping hole. 60 sq inches!
Any reason to not have 100% or was the installer just lazy?
Mike
I assume that just like the HX, the space around the A-coil should be blocked so 100% of the air goes through the a-coil for maximum transfer of cold to the air. We are talking at least 3"x 10" on each side of gaping hole. 60 sq inches!
Any reason to not have 100% or was the installer just lazy?
Mike
15
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: No room for heat exchanger
« on: August 30, 2017, 02:12:02 PM »
I want to stay with dense foam like Logstor/thermopex/Reheau for the obvious benefits.