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Topics - CountryBoyJohn

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16
Fire Wood / Name that wood
« on: July 13, 2014, 05:51:32 PM »
Ok, dark green compound leaf. Dark inner core in the

17
Equipment / Oregon Splitter
« on: March 18, 2014, 12:30:37 PM »
Anyone have experience running an Oregon 22 or 28 ton splitter?  I like the design of the beam cradle.  Prices are a little salty. 

18
Fire Wood / White Oak?
« on: March 17, 2014, 06:58:29 AM »
I cut two trees this weekend that upon looking at the bark I thought was a red oak or a pin oak.  After cutting, the outer 1/3 of the wood was white and the inner 2/3 was pink.  Sap was coming up so the wood was really wet to the point that moisture actually sponged out from the splitting wedge.  It was really stringy like the red oak I split last summer.  But, it had a different smell.  Now that most of that saturated moisture is gone, all the wood is white now.  Almost as white as my ash wood.  I'm 99% positive it is oak from the fiber patterns.  But it's not red oak. 

What do you guys think?  White oak?  I could snap some pictures tonight. 

19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Back on the teet
« on: February 22, 2014, 05:51:47 AM »
Man this sucks! I had a pump fail on Friday. It's covered on warranty. My dealer already had then registered so after a 5 minute phone call it is on it's way. In the mean time, my downstairs level is back on electric! Back to 65 and freezing! Back to keeping shower lengths down.  Wifey is not doing well!

It's a nice, well maybe not nice, but maybe just a good reminder of how awesome wood heat is. It makes us all appreciate what our stove does for this family. Not having to wear long sleeves, socks, house slippers, and blankets all the time. This stove is a huge blessing to my family and these few days are reminding us of that again! It's also a reminder to get a backup pump!  :bash:

20
HeatMaster / Heatmaster Videos
« on: February 19, 2014, 01:07:30 PM »
Hey HM guys.  I got a video posted of my setup for my MF10,000E. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4bMYb4G4fA

This video is of my first go at burning some coal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZKLZMgLYLw

My next video will likely be a detailed overview of my stove. 

21
Fire Wood / Pile Estimation Guess
« on: February 15, 2014, 04:00:12 PM »
Ok, this one is for guys with grapple experience, but I'll take guesses from anyone. These are some pictures of my work over the last two weekends. It may be hard to see the diameters of the trees, but the largest is about 18". I need guesses on how many cords I am going to get out of this! I'll post the answer when I get it cut, split, and stacked!

The first picture is the first half at the top of the hill. The second picture is from the end of the pile looking up the hill.

22
Fire Wood / Giant Hedge!
« on: December 31, 2013, 08:07:59 PM »
Anyone else seen a 60" diameter hedge? About 4' after the base, it split into 4 branches. Each branch was about 20" in diameter and yielded at least 1 cord each. One branch was pretty close to 2 cords. Needless to say, I hit the I jackpot this week!

I'll be splitting it over the next couple weeks and burning it next year. Any of you ever burn much hedge? I'm excited! It is firewood gold!

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23
Plumbing / 3/4" vs. 1"
« on: November 18, 2013, 12:31:03 PM »
Ok, I know that 1" pex carries approximately twice the BTU than 3/4".  However, I'm not quite into a full understanding of how that affects your system's performance.  I have a cousin who is installing a Hardy H4 for a 1200 sft house with decent insulation and using 3/4" pex.  He may eventually run a separate line to his garage and heat it as well, maybe 500 sft.  Today, he hinted that he may route his return line from the house to the garage and run a heat exchanger on that same 3/4" line.  I've tried to tell him that 1" is the way to go, but the guy he got his stove from has installed dozens of Hardy's with 3/4" and has has no problems.

My understanding is this:  his return temps are going to be very low.  I'm thinking sub-100 degrees.  Am I right?  What else is wrong about running small supply lines?  Will he be ok if he is running his domestic water out to the stove like most Hardy's?

24
Pools & Hot Tubs / Hot Tub Motor
« on: November 18, 2013, 05:18:36 AM »
Does anyone have any experience with the pumps/motors that run the hot tub?  I got all my stove connections made, wired up, and functioning.  But, when I started filling the tub and testing the motors, I have one motor where the shaft turns freely, but the motor won't turn it.  I hear it hum when I turn it on, and then I hear what sounds like a switch in the motor turn off then the humming stops after 4 or 5 seconds.  Then, about a minute later, it does the same thing.  Almost like it is trying to turn the motor again.  Any thoughts? 

25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Indian Summer
« on: October 29, 2013, 09:11:37 AM »
Hey guys, what do you do in the event of a late fall warmup?  Turn your water temp down?  Let the fire go out and re-light when it cools off again?  Open the windows?  Temps will be back up into the 70s for a few days down here and I'm not sure what to do.  Let me know what you all do.

26
Pools & Hot Tubs / Hot Tub Exchanger System
« on: October 10, 2013, 10:45:26 AM »
Ok, guys.  My last component to getting my system where I want it, is to hook up my hot tub.  It's pretty cramped under my tub, so I might have to install some things "outside."  I have 2" lines running to 2 circulation pumps.  1 feeds the heating element, and 1 just circulates.  At least that's what I think it does.  How do I route a 2" pvc line through a 1" heat exchanger?  Do I need a gate valve a feather the opening so only half of the flow goes through the exchanger and the other half goes through the pump? 

A more technical question is how do I regulate the temperature in the tub?  Do I just use the Ranco?  Do I connect the hot tub wires to the zone valve?  I'm really at a loss when it comes to this hook up.

Thanks.

John

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27
Plumbing / Plate Exchanger Pipe Threads
« on: October 02, 2013, 10:33:14 AM »
Ok, I quite surprised I haven't seen any discussion on this matter.  I had a HECK of a time getting my water heater side of my brazed plate exchanger hooked up without leaking this week.  I think I had it hooked up and removed 3 times!  What a pain.  I found out that the threads on the exchanger is not a typical tapered pipe thread.  Standard teflon tape will not be sufficient!  I finally got it to stop leaking by using heavy duty teflon with a bead of pipe sealant "dope" on top of the tape.  Then I cranked down with a wrench till the cows came home.  Has anyone else had trouble sealing up this side of their plate exchangers?

28
Fire Wood / Pecan
« on: June 18, 2013, 06:32:59 PM »
Anybody ever burn Pecan?  From what I've found online, it is very much like hickory.  Any personal experience?  BTU ratings?

Thanks!

29
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / My Stove Journey
« on: June 17, 2013, 11:01:49 AM »
Greetings all!  I am well into the process of getting set up with an outdoor wood boiler.  I have been in the process for almost 8 months now.  It has been quite a journey so far and I still have quite a ways to go.  I enjoy sharing my story with others.  I decided I should post it here as well in the hopes that someone else may benefit from it. 

I purchased my house (home details to come later) in May of 2012 and was told my yearly average for my all electric utility bills was $300 per month.  That turned out to be a lie.  My electric bill was $720 for December.  My January bill would've been higher, but we abandoned upstairs and completely shut it down.  Seeing the unaffordable situation I was in, I began researching alternatives.  I ruled out Geotherm as I didn't have $25,000 sitting around, nor did I have the equity to finance it.  I had heard about outdoor wood boilers and began researching.  Much of that research included some of you on this site!  So, in December, I bought a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss and began cutting wood. 

As many of you know, there are quite a few type of boilers out there.  After being overwhelmed with choices, I jotted down all the different features found in OWB's and ranked them in priority.  I decided I wanted a forced air furnace, I wanted stainless steel, I wanted affordability, and I wanted a conventional style.  My house is 3700 sft of living space, 900 sft of garage space, a hot tub, an 18'x36' inground pool.  This space is heated with 3 resistance electric furnaces and 2 electric water heaters.  My insulation is terrible and windows are non-insulated. 

In May, I expanded my wood storage area with 10 tons of gravel.  I felt that the gravel will allow water to drain away and give me a good surface to work on and stack.  I got the gravel spread out and now I have enough room to store as much as 15 cords if I wanted to.  I am currently up to about 8 cords on my way to 10 before heating season starts up.  I live in southwestern Indiana, and based on my research, I am anticipating using between 5 and 7 cords.

Last week I ordered my stove.  I got the Heatmaster MF10,000E.  This stove fit all my criteria in what I was looking for, and met the criteria for the state of Indiana.  Indiana is an EPA Phase II state, but they allow conventional stoves that generate 350,000 BTU.  My demand was such that I needed that type of stove.  My stove will be arriving at the end of this month! 

My design is a bit different that anything I have found on this site, so I am going to share.  I have a main house area that consists of nearly 3,000 sft and a semi-detached garage that includes a bonus room above it.  My stove will be located at the "ground" level behind my garage.  I can't get into the main part of the house at ground level, so my supply/return lines will have to go up and down as much as 10'.  I have attached a plan view PDF and a profile view PDF that shows all this in detail.  My demand is also so high, that I thought it best to run 2 circuits and split the load demand as evenly as possible.  My upstairs furnace and downstairs furnace will be on separate circuits.  My hot tub and pool exchangers will be on separate circuits, so on and so forth.  Spreading the load on 2 circuits will allow me to keep my temps up and not have items at the end of the circuit starving for heat. 

That is my story so far. I plan on updating and loading more pictures as everything progresses.  If you veterans have any comments or suggestions, feel free to PM, e-mail or post.  Newbies with questions, feel free to do the same. 

Thanks!



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30
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Set-Back Recommendations
« on: February 25, 2013, 02:38:27 PM »
After searching around this site, consulting with my insurance agent, and exploring an installation manual, I have not been able to come up with any solid recommendations for good set-back distances for the OWB from a house.  Insurance agent said what ever the manual says.  Manual says keep 36" away from anything flammable.  Nothing very specific on how far away from the house to locate the boiler. 

It is shaping up for the best place to locate my boiler is directly behind my semi-detached garage.  Close enough that my return/supply lines will go from the back of the boiler directly through the wall into my garage without having to be burried.  I have a slab floor and coming up from the gound is not feasible.  My plan is an insulated connection on the exterior of the wall via the method that has been shown on this site a couple times before in other threads.   

Any thoughts?

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