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[Scott7m]

Hmm...  I donno.

My book from heatmaster shows a 3/4" 20 plate making 50k btu
1" 20 plate making 100kbtu

And a 3/4 30 plate making 75k btu

I have no experience with any of them other than the 10 plate and 20 plated 1" plates

I was just going off the numbers and not experience

[martyinmi]

But no matter what we install before our hot water heater (plate or sidearm), we will always install a tempering valve to protect our family members from scalds, right Scott?

[Scott7m]

lol, If you can convince a customer to buy one sure lol

So many folks only want the basics tho.  That's why I'm working on a paper for them to sign a release for me at this time...

[martyinmi]

Wise move, grasshopper!

[bigbird1]

just to let you know I put in a 30 plate , works great , really sucks the heat out of 275 gal tank when the wife tryes it out!!!!  now I just need a mixing valve.  you really have to watch the sinks and shower , they get HOT!!!

[Sconnieman]

just to let you know I put in a 30 plate , works great , really sucks the heat out of 275 gal tank when the wife tryes it out!!!!  now I just need a mixing valve.  you really have to watch the sinks and shower , they get HOT!!!

I just put a 10 plate in mine on the hot side of the hot water heater, so I have the water heater turned off completely and the water comes out of the tank cold then goes through the 10 plate exchanger. It's amazing that cold water can enter that little 10 plate cold and be close to 170 degrees when it comes out the other side. I love it. Probably should have got a 20 plate at least because I've read that the 10's can restrict flow, but dealer sold me this and I didn't know any better. I love on demand hot water!

[beeman]

willieg how did you bring the copper out of the pipe and did you  weld the ends on  i wont to make one like yours at the price of copper dont wont to make mistaks on gussing

[willieG]

i did weld the ends on figuring i would make one later tha was "fixable" well it's been ten winters so far and i have not had to fix it nor have i got around to making a new one

i welded on steel couplings and screwed into them thresded to solder connections. in the soldered connections there is a little "bump" so when you shove the copper in under normal conditions it will stop about the halfway mark. i drilled this out so i could slide the end of the coil out far enough to usea soldered coupler. after i had everything in place (and all threaded connections tight) i soldered the coil in the connectors and there she was.

i did something simmilar for my closed loop to the shop but did make the ends bolt in on it.

i should be more clear..i used 1/2 inside for the domestic water and the screwed threaded to solder copper  i used 3/4 to allow me some room to manouver the coil into place. then i used a small chunck of 3/4 in this and then a 3/4 to1/2 in reducer with the 1/2 drilled out to allow the coild to slip through.  check link below for photo

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h308/billie_boy7/001-1.jpg