Grandgracing, for insulating the bottom I laid R11 batts on top of a piece of R5 foil faced 1" styrofoam, stapled the faced bats to the styro,(paper side towards the styro) then slid the whole thing under the stove, then added another piece of 1" foilfaced styro under that, I cut it so it would slide between the feet, slid it through from the front. Then did the same from both sides( to insulate from the inside of the feet to the edges. I had all the siding removed except the rear. Took me a full day to do.
The fiberglass in the door turns black, but really helps keep the door cooler,I figured even if it has to be changed once in awhile, it's cheap.
As far as the water curculation issue, What I did was, with the hot water coil cover removed, working from inside the boiler, I added galvanized pipe to the top supply pipes. My stove came with 3 hookups, the one for the house I added aprox a foot, ( so it pulls water from just in front of the back plate area) the shop supply I added about 2 feet, and the 3rd supply I ran almost to the front, right on top of the firebox. the 3rd is not being used for anything so I just added a pump that just loops right back to bottom of the stove.
It was kind of a pain working through that opening and was thankfull I never dropped any tools or parts inside the stove and I had to use some 45 elbows and various pipes to make it work.I figure the extra 3rd pump I may leave unplugged, unless I feal I need more curculation. Hope you could follow what I was trying to explain.