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46
Fire Wood / Re: White Oak?
« on: March 28, 2014, 12:16:06 PM »
I would agree on pin oak. I have it all over the place here. Red oak usually has better look to the grain. The pin or black oak types usually have more knots and split a hair tougher than red oak. It's all good for burning though - not much difference once in the stove.
47
Equipment / Re: New Stihl
« on: March 28, 2014, 12:06:37 PM »
I have had my MS260 - 18" bar since 2005. I have spent a lot of time cuting up some big oaks with that saw and ran hard. Great running, light and can keep up with my buddies 290's just fine. I got a 362 last year, but still use the 260 for smaller stuff; it still runs like new.
48
Heatmor / Re: End of Season Cleaning
« on: March 26, 2014, 01:12:29 PM »
I brush the chimney, clean the flue, scrape the loose creosote off and clean and vacuum the ashes real well out of the gutter. Put a bucket on the chimney - my cap doesn't keep enough rain out. I spray LPS anti rust spray inside mainly on the steel ash tray. I also check the silicone around the chimney and replace if it is coming loose.
My anode rod is done also. It makes a lot of crud float around. Better to keep up on the additives.
My anode rod is done also. It makes a lot of crud float around. Better to keep up on the additives.
49
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: March 26, 2014, 09:57:27 AM »Which is just sad, because I've had no issues with my non-gasser unit and I know several people with the non-gassers that absolutely love them. It sounds like a combination of Roxann getting a turd unit, improper training, and maybe a messed up install on the house side as well. No one is happy on either side of the problem and it's just making things miserable for all.
Agree. In my area the same thing - I know quite a few people that love the non gasser ones. This thread really sours Heatmor for me. I hope there is a resolution to come on this. I still can't believe no one who has the newer unit is on this site.
50
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Backup Propane for forced air furnace
« on: March 25, 2014, 04:25:47 PM »
I bought my 500 gallon. I have a gas range and oven, dryer and hot water in the summer. I usually need a fill about every 18 months, but that should be less now since I got my exchanger to work 100% on the hot water. It is nice to top off in early fall or summer whenever I try to catch a better price and not have to get caught with a price spike. If I didn't have other uses, the 120 gallon tanks would work good. I wouldn't use anything smaller though for reasons stated in previous posts.
51
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: What water temp if only doing in-floor heat?
« on: March 04, 2014, 11:46:18 AM »
I wouldn't put boiler hot water straight in to floor pipes either. Should use a bypass, mixing valve or heat exchanger.
I have a heat exchanger to separate the systems as I have hot water and air furnace also. I used a 60 flat plate and a mixing valve on the 'house' side of it to get the water down to around 100-110°. I originally was running the 180 temps in the floor and got hot and cold spots with temp fluctuation as the pump did not run long enough to get an even heat.
I have a heat exchanger to separate the systems as I have hot water and air furnace also. I used a 60 flat plate and a mixing valve on the 'house' side of it to get the water down to around 100-110°. I originally was running the 180 temps in the floor and got hot and cold spots with temp fluctuation as the pump did not run long enough to get an even heat.
52
Heatmor / Re: Wood consumption
« on: March 03, 2014, 07:47:33 AM »I honestly don't know. I haven't changed anything except switched to the heatmore . When it was 17 below I had to load it 3 times a day. Something must be wrong but I really don't know what. I know I cant do this another year
I found that by overloading the heatmor I loose efficiency. My first year I was going thru a lot of wood until I realized I was overfilling it. Unless I know I am going to be away for over 12 hours, I load less than full with good dry wood and it will be ok even in very cold weather. I use larger pieces of good heavy oak or elm on cold nights and lighter pieces of cherry or elm or rotten stuff on warm days. Sometimes when it is below zero I fill at 7 am, top up a little at 6 pm and full at 10 pm. The best place for the wood is down by the firebrick.
I have heard the same thing about loading techniques from Central Boiler friends, so you probably already know that.
The other thing I did to my Heatmor was add insulation. I think they are underinsulated. I taped bubble wrap insulation on the inside of both doors since it appears that is a major heat loss area. Insulate the pipes in back. I also pulled back the roof steel and found the fiberglass was not evenly installed and there were gaps and lots of airspace above. I added fiberglass to fill the voids being careful not to compact it. I think that helped on my wood usage. I know it helped some since the snow doesn't melt right off the roof anymore.
I heat a well insulated 1500 SF ranch (68°) with basement and 1100 Sq.Ft. attached garage (58°). I would guess I have gone thru over 12 cords so far this winter. Normal winter would be 10-12 cords total, but this winter has been very cold. I started with 4 or 5 cord box elder and light stuff and have had good oak, elm and maple thru all the cold spells. This is all good dry wood - generally I use wood: oak that has been stacked for over 3 years, dead standing elm with no bark or light maple or box elder stacked 1 year. Right now I am so far ahead it is all stacked and allowed to dry some and the box elder is always the newest as it tends to rot if it sits too long. A lot of it is split down to 12" size to fit in the door. I am cutting wood all the time, but getting ahead and having dry wood is worth it. The wet wood smokes more and I go thru a lot more of it.
53
Fire Wood / Re: log splitters
« on: February 28, 2014, 07:10:02 AM »
Are you sure it was the DHT 27 ton for that price? If so that was a helluva deal. I have been looking at the DHTs and like what I see. Where is your Menards located?
[/quote]
Yes it was the 27 tn in the ad. Not all the Menards stores around here have those in stock, only the bigger ones. There was a sale price of $1299, then a $300 rebate for store credit, but after the mail in it was pretty cheap. Almost made me regret my Huskee 22 ton purchase for a second. I think I am over that now and still happy with the Huskee.
I hate those rebate checks. I forget to mail in sometimes before they expire, then always forget to bring or use them when at the store. Overall they have saved me a ton of money on things I need anyway.
[/quote]
Yes it was the 27 tn in the ad. Not all the Menards stores around here have those in stock, only the bigger ones. There was a sale price of $1299, then a $300 rebate for store credit, but after the mail in it was pretty cheap. Almost made me regret my Huskee 22 ton purchase for a second. I think I am over that now and still happy with the Huskee.
I hate those rebate checks. I forget to mail in sometimes before they expire, then always forget to bring or use them when at the store. Overall they have saved me a ton of money on things I need anyway.
54
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: How much cooling with boiler fan running and wood out
« on: February 27, 2014, 08:19:07 AM »
That is an obvious solution. Great idea. I think I will hook one up.
55
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / How much cooling with boiler fan running and wood out
« on: February 27, 2014, 06:26:01 AM »
How much do you think the burner fan cools the outdoor boilers if they run out of wood?
I have a Heatmor 200 with the forced air fan. When it runs out of wood the fan continues to run and the propane furnace will kick in and allow heat into the pipes to circulate and prevent the outdoor unit from freezing. I rarely happens, but in this cold weather if I don't have enough wood in and end up working late sometimes it is out for a little while. Usually not enough for the propane to even kick in - water temp 120-130 for example.
If I were to leave for a weekend I have wondered if it would be better to heat the house warmer, shut down the outdoor furnace, turn down the house thermostat and let the propane go on when needed,,, or just load full with good wood and take the chance that it might run out and the fan might be cooling for a while with the propane on.
I would think in these cold temps we have now near zero if I warmed the house to 75, turned the temp down to 57 and left, a full load of wood would last over 24 hours no problem.
Anyone have experience or thoughts?
I have a Heatmor 200 with the forced air fan. When it runs out of wood the fan continues to run and the propane furnace will kick in and allow heat into the pipes to circulate and prevent the outdoor unit from freezing. I rarely happens, but in this cold weather if I don't have enough wood in and end up working late sometimes it is out for a little while. Usually not enough for the propane to even kick in - water temp 120-130 for example.
If I were to leave for a weekend I have wondered if it would be better to heat the house warmer, shut down the outdoor furnace, turn down the house thermostat and let the propane go on when needed,,, or just load full with good wood and take the chance that it might run out and the fan might be cooling for a while with the propane on.
I would think in these cold temps we have now near zero if I warmed the house to 75, turned the temp down to 57 and left, a full load of wood would last over 24 hours no problem.
Anyone have experience or thoughts?
56
Equipment / Re: Gasoline preference?
« on: February 21, 2014, 12:39:09 PM »
Yes the smell. There is one station that sells non ethanol, but it smells stale and didn't work very well in my boat. I never went back for more of it at that station. It should smell like real gas. You definitely know when you get 100% without ethanol. Some may be to young to remember the smell of real gas.
57
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 20, 2014, 02:10:49 PM »Ha! We keep ours at 60, as the thermostat is downstairs and we spend most our time upstairs where it is a bit warmer anyway. Any warmer than that I think we'd melt! I imagine as my wife and I get older still we'll eventually appreciate a little more warmth, but when I go visit my folks (both near 80) I can't hardly sit its so hot at 72 or whatever they keep it at.
Everyone has their preferences. We keep ours at 67. Most people say that is too low for using wood heat. The point here is that with an outdoor furnace we should be able to keep our house whatever temp we want. Unfortunately Roxann can't do that.
Depending on how this turns out will determine the way I think about Heatmor. I have an 2006 CS200 unit that works fine; very happy with it. No problems and should last quite a few more years. Will I replace it with another Heatmor? I don't know right now. I would like to as they are made in my state, but the nearest dealer is 150 miles away right now and it appears their newer tech products are having bugs. The old tried and true smokedragon works just fine as long as your not downwind of it with a big load with not enough load on it - actually it burns pretty clean if I use good wood and don't overload it in warmer weather. I've also seen some pretty nasty belching smoke out of it. I would like to have a more efficient one or gassifier someday.
58
Equipment / Re: Gasoline preference?
« on: February 19, 2014, 06:40:18 PM »
I use ethanol free 91 octane in all my small engines. There are 4 stations in my town that have it so it is easy to get. I have had no problems for about 5 years since I started using 100% gas. With 10% ethanol I had rusty carburetors and my brother burned up a MS 360. The problem with the ethanol is mainly shelf life. It absorbs water from the atmosphere and will form crystals & gunk from the water over time. 10% ethanol max is ok if it is used within a month or two. Keep it fresh, run your engines out of gas if not using for a month. Stabil is good, but I have had better luck running dry than using it.
59
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 18, 2014, 12:28:40 PM »
<looked at stove @ 2.00 am stove temp was 171-- 64 in house blower wasn't blowing turned the blower off and opended the door then outside light came on and blower came on is that supposed to do that???>
I am a little confused, but it sounds like the outside furnace was at 171 without the blower on. That should be normal. Then you flipped the switch (I can't remember if it is up or down) which should turn on the light and either turn off or not allow the combustion fan to turn on, but the light came on AND the fan also? The fan should not ever be on when the light is on.
The blower would not go on in overheat mode either, especially if the fire was in smother mode with black wood. Just to be sure, we are talking about the service light (to see at night while loading) on the outside right?
What happened when you flipped the switch off? Did the light go off? What did the fan do? Sounds like some wires are crossed!
I don't think it really matters what it is in the house, (other than you freezing) but what is important is the temp and fan on the outside unit. That is where your problem is.
I am a little confused, but it sounds like the outside furnace was at 171 without the blower on. That should be normal. Then you flipped the switch (I can't remember if it is up or down) which should turn on the light and either turn off or not allow the combustion fan to turn on, but the light came on AND the fan also? The fan should not ever be on when the light is on.
The blower would not go on in overheat mode either, especially if the fire was in smother mode with black wood. Just to be sure, we are talking about the service light (to see at night while loading) on the outside right?
What happened when you flipped the switch off? Did the light go off? What did the fan do? Sounds like some wires are crossed!
I don't think it really matters what it is in the house, (other than you freezing) but what is important is the temp and fan on the outside unit. That is where your problem is.
60
Heatmor / Re: return line
« on: February 17, 2014, 07:33:10 PM »
Depends on how much demand. I don't have thermometers on mine, but with the infrared gun it doesn't loose too much heat. I would guess a few degrees underground, and a few more thru the hot water, furnace and flat plate for the garage depending if they are calling for heat. The return water is still pretty warm. I would recommend a small flat plate and separate pump to do what you want which is actually effectively heat the floor. You aren't going to be able to control the heat the way you want. If your crawl space is uninsulated you will lose a lot of heat unless you insulate under the pipe.