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Messages - morfem

Pages: 1 2 [3]
31
Plumbing / Re: Logstor installation questions
« on: June 27, 2017, 08:03:20 PM »
What is the outside diameter of the assembled insulated pipe?

How big of a hole would I need to bore in the block wall?

32
Plumbing / Logstor installation questions
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:43:42 AM »
A few questions regarding the installation of Logstor pipe or any other insulated pex for that matter.

I will be making 2 runs. One from OWB to the house and one from the OWB to the shop.

The one to the house will be going through the basement block wall strait in so I wouldn't have to add any length for the bends.

The one going to the shop will have to be bent up 90 deg along with the 2 going into the back of the OWB and the one going to the shop.

1- How much pipe do you recommend sticking inside the basement wall?

2-Is there a good way to seal up the pipe going through a block wall? Do they make any fittings or do I just seal it up with caulk?

3 - How much needs to be sticking up where the OWB is set?

4- How much length to add for each 90 deg bend up?

5 - How deep to bury pipe?

I do not want to cut my self short on ordering enough pipe but yet I do not want to be throwing a bunch away since it is so expensive.

Any other suggestions or pitfalls to watch out for?

33
Portage & Main / EGR 250 side clearances
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:29:35 AM »
Does anybody have any suggestions on the clearances needed to get to the sides of and EGR 250?

I am looking at putting it in a 3 sided building with the open side being the front of the OWB and a wall to the RH side of it. I will be stacking wood to the left side in the same building.

The manual calls for 18" on LH and RH side and 60" for front and back. Seems a little tight on the sides.....

Also is there any problem with adding more exhaust pipe to get out through the roof? How high above the roof would I need to extend it?

34
HeatMaster / Re: GS pictures
« on: June 20, 2017, 08:20:37 PM »
Very nice informative video on the new model.

From my understanding all the "important" stuff is the same as the G series with less frills on the GS.

35
Polar Furnace / Polar post #'s
« on: June 20, 2017, 07:57:12 PM »
Why so few posts about Polar?

At first glance it looks like there isn't much interest in this brand. Or maybe its a sign that they do not have many problems?  :)

How long has the polar brand been around?

I have been looking at this website and getting most of my info from it. I was about to write off polar because of the few posts but the more I hear about them the more I like them.

36
Just a guess since I do not have any heat in the shop now but I think somewhere around 60 would be comfortable to work in.

I have been seeing some info about hanging heaters in the shop so if I would want to get it a little warmer for a short time I could use them.

I work away from home so I wouldn't be able to add more wood until the evening.

Thanks for the info.

37
Good call on the Polar Hondaracer. I overlooked that one.
I read an older post on this but I will raise the question again to see if anything changed.

The Polar and P&M gasification units look very similar.
Without to much bashing of the competition what advantage does one have over the other?

38
Portage & Main / Re: EGR 250 consumables
« on: June 19, 2017, 07:09:31 PM »
I have not seen anything that says they have on either the EPA website or the Portage and Main literature.

How stringent are the governing bodies that control this?
Is it federal or state? In my case Indiana.
If I were to purchase the EGR 250 without it being certified would I be breaking any laws? If so are there any real repurctions? Susceptible to fines or just a stern warning not to do it again from an official?

39
Portage & Main / EGR 250 consumables
« on: June 19, 2017, 12:37:55 PM »
I have been looking hard at the Portage and Main EGR 250 and noticed some notes in the user manual about consumable items.


The nozzle is a consumable item. The life expectancy of a nozzle cannot be predicted by usage or
specified period.


The refractories are consumable items. The life expectancy of refractories cannot be predicted by
usage or specified period. Damage, deterioration and cracking of all refractories (heat treated fire
brick) are excluded from the warranty.

Is this something I should worry about?
What is a realistic amount of time these should last?
Has anyone ever replaced them?
What kind of cost is associated with them?
Are these something you can make yourself if the company stops offering them?

Thanks

40
I apologize for my replys being slow but it seems that I'm on a 10 message probationary period.

Moderator has to review my messages first.


41
The second floor unit is a 2 ton unit and the main floor is 3.5.

The house was built in 2007 and has blown in cellulose in the wall and ceilings.

Thanks

42
I have heat pumps with electric backup currently. I will get you the ton/CFM when I get home this evening.

This may be a stupid question but what is the difference between gasser, down draft, and catalytic units?

Thanks

43
Dang there are so many options!!!!!!
At least when you purchase a vehicle you can take it for a test drive..... :-\

Hello all. I found this forum while doing some internet searches and there is allot of great info here.

I am in the process of purchasing a my first outdoor wood boiler and have so many questions.

I would like to do as much of the work as I can for 2 reasons:
1- To save Money
2- So I know how it is setup in case there are any problems in the future.

I have somewhat narrowed my search down to these 4 brands but not necessarily a particular stove. I would like to stick with the gasification models.
Central Boiler
Portage and Main
HeatMaster
Hearmor

If there are dealers for the above models what size unit would you recommend? I would like to get some opinions.
Heat master specific: Is the new GS model any good?

I talk to some people and they say that stainless is the worst thing for a boiler and others say the exact opposite.

Same goes with underground insulated pex. I believe I want to go with the closed cell type and not the "bubble wrap" style but again so many options.
Logstor Dual flex pex
Rehau
Thermo-pex
Rhino-flex by Rovanco

I attached a sketch of what I am going to heat.
2 story house with radiant tubes in basement and water to air heat exchangers already installed in the air handlers.
Attached garage with radiant tubes already installed.
Pole barn with Radiant tubes already installed.
Would also like to heat the water heater in the house and pole barn.

Located in Southern Indiana so we do not get super cold winters.

I would like to place the wood boiler behind the barn so it is unseen.

Is there any good documentation to calculate what size pumps and Diameter of pipe needed?

I have a million more questions but this is a good start.

Thanks for you time and I appreciate your input.






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