Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - woodbutcher

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
HeatMaster / Re: 2015 HeatMaster 10,000
« on: February 22, 2018, 08:05:26 AM »
I don't think the dealer can do anything. I have already fixed the problems. Over caulking of the main door, and no insulation on the ash door and top clean out door, won't get me anything. And if you think the company is going to do anything, like send me a couple of stainless steel bolts and a can of paint, I got those issues are fixed. I worked for a company a lot bigger than HeatMaster and a little problem like this is just swept under the rug. I don't blame the dealer in anyway. He can't make it rite with out the company OK. I don't expect him to pay for there mistakes. I been welding for 45 years and was State Certified for the company I worked for. Guess I should have listened to the wife and built my own stove. I though I was getting the top of the line stove, but it looks like I just a left over model that they were just trying to unload before the law changed.   

HeatMaster / Re: New Tutorial Videos
« on: February 21, 2018, 08:20:15 AM »
There is a reason the call the outdoor wood burning units. They belong outside. If you want in indoor stove, buy one meant for inside a building.

HeatMaster / Re: 2015 HeatMaster 10,000
« on: February 21, 2018, 07:47:22 AM »
I don't think there is no reason to contact the dealer. He had nothing to do with the making or shipping of the stove. It was shipped in the fall before any salt could get on it. He told me it came from a warehouse in northern WI. Anyway there is nothing in the warranty that would cover any of these defects. Maybe they would give be a couple of bucks for my trouble, but it not worth the time and frustration. As for it being illegible to burn a C series now, do you really think the DNR is going to go all over the country to look when everybody's stove was made. I think if you were burning for the last 20 years, unless they took a picture of the stove, when you installed it, they won't bother you. If this is the DNR's top priority, this country is in sad shape. I live about 50 miles from Milwaukee, and when it rains hard, the DNR says it is OK to dump millions of gal."s of sewage into lake Michigan. And they are wearied about how much smoke comes out of my stove. This country has gone from a great place to live to a government run society.     

HeatMaster / Re: 2015 HeatMaster 10,000
« on: February 20, 2018, 07:26:22 AM »
Might have been a typo on the price. $9,500. As for salt, I bought from a dealer and had to wait a week or two to get it. He had nothing at his place. Just a part time income for him. He  does carpenter work full time.  The silicone used on the door was so thick it was squirting all the way around the sides of the gasket. I spent and hour just to get it cleaned off. This don't happen in a year. I still have the bolt from the ash door and the loading door and if you seen them, you would know this did not happen in a year. The threads are so bad you can't even see the threads. Wish I had waited for my CB to die. I think it had a couple of more years in it. 17 years and still work like the day I bought it. Then I would have bought a C series and the hell with the gov. regulations. All I can say about the stove is it was not made in 2015. This looks more like it was sitting outside for the last 5-10 years, even the paint around the edges of the roof is pealing. I do like the new style of the HeatMaster, using a oval shaped heating chamber. I have had wood lay on the side of my round firebox and never get down to the fire. Now I  found that the more wood I put in, the better it runs.

HeatMaster / 2015 HeatMaster 10,000
« on: February 17, 2018, 08:47:12 AM »
I bought this boiler just before the law chained and was not impressed. Ash door not insulated, clean out door not insulated and main loading door had  so much  silicone around the gasket it made the gasket hard as a stone. After first year of burning, I insulated the ash door and added some foil insulation between the clean out door and the inside plate. Having removed the loading door, I had to remove the handle to get the gasket out. The bolts that hold the door on were not stainless steel. They were so rusty, I had a hard time removing then. Even had to re tap the threads. Found the same thing on the ash door, and the top clean out door. Replaced all bolts with stainless steel bolts. Sticker says it was made in Apr. 2015. Boy is that a load of crap. The threads on the bolts were solid rust, this don't happen in a year. I think this boiler was standing around outside for years, even the bottom insulation was so wet, I had to replace it. I did get a deal on the boiler, $9,500. What I got was a boiler that was standing around for years and then someone changed the sticker to say it was made in 2015. Wish I had waited until my CB died and bought a Heatmaster C series.   

Equipment / Re: Echo CS-361P
« on: March 27, 2017, 07:57:12 AM »
I have 2 Echo's. A CS-680 and a CS-600. Both good saws and are dependable. Best warranty on the market, 5 years. The 680 has a 28" bar and the 600 a 24" bar. The only difference is the 600 has a decompression valve for easier starting. The 600 is the same cc. as the CS-590 Timber Wolf. The 590 is a lot less expensive than the 600. The only difference is the sprocket drive, and the 600 has more power. The 590 only goes to a 20" bar. I bought mine through https://www.arlingtonpower.com/ . They have free delivery.

HeatMaster / Re: Chimney Caps
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:04:50 AM »
Has anyone tried one of the directional caps that turn with the wind?

HeatMaster / Re: Chimney Caps
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:02:15 AM »
Incase anyone is interested

How does this cap preform when the stove shuts down? Any creosote buildup? The Selkirk cap I had on for a couple of months creosoted up so bad, I had creosote running down the chimney pipe, I have a 4' extension. Had to remove it. Just wondering if this cap is any better?
(Hope you can make it on Sat. Text me to let me know what time.) 

HeatMaster / Re: Chimney Caps
« on: March 14, 2017, 06:36:31 AM »
Thanks for all the info I received. The Selkirk I bought at a cost of $70-80 bucks just is not worth the money. I have seen conventional Outdoor boilers with the cloverleaf, and was wondering if it would worth the money? Never had one on the old CB. Just though that since it has more bypasses, it might keep the rain out. This winter we got 2" rain in a week, and the HM didn't have to run to much.

HeatMaster / Re: Chimney Caps
« on: March 11, 2017, 06:57:02 AM »
The plastic cap that came with my boiler was nothing more than a plug. I noticed after I bought it that the plug filled with water and then somehow ran down the inside of the chimney and the whole inside was wet. I used floor dry to dry it out. I had the boiler about 8 months before I installed it and this was the first thing I checked. I removed the plug and put a pail over the chimney and it stooped the rain form coming in. Plug went in the trash. I only will use a pail in the off season. Thanks for the info on the cap. I guess I'll be running with no cap, sounds like using a cap is more of problem than a help.

HeatMaster / Chimney Caps
« on: March 10, 2017, 09:39:34 AM »
Has anyone used a chimney cap on their OWB? I tried one that was meant for the HM chimney and it made a mess of creosote run down the pipe. I had to remove it. I just wanted to keep the rain out, seems like every winter we get a couple of inches of rain. Had 2 weeks of rain this winter. Anyone tried one of the cloverleaf caps? 

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wind
« on: March 09, 2017, 08:33:42 AM »
Looks like some home made piece of junk.

HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 24, 2017, 07:51:23 AM »
The test date is the date they did the UL test for that model. The other date is when that particular unit was manufactured.
They started using the timer when they retested with the oval firebox for 2016. These can still be shipped into the US for commercial installation.
It can be rewired to have a timer but it's not a "plug it in" type of thing.
But usually for wood burning just a bit more air leakage is all you need.
That's what the tech said when I called him. He said it was not done as far as he knows, but it would take major rewiring. I watched a video of a, I think it was the MF7000e, and they added a secondary air tube up the front of the stove. When I bough my 10000e, HM didn't have the 70000e. I knew the 10000e was oversized and the 5000 would be undersized. Maybe I should have bought the C-375. I heard of someone who burns wood in a C series, but when I talked to my dealer he said that the company might not cover the warranty because of burning wood in a coal stove.     

HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 24, 2017, 07:39:23 AM »
Hey you made it over here Robert. The test date is permanently printed on the tag right? That date is in all of them I believe and then they punch out the actual build date of when it was built.
Stickers can be changed, but if HM didn't put the timers on until 2016 that would answer why my stove don't have one. My old CB and a metal plate with the date stamped in it.

HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 23, 2017, 09:49:45 AM »
Does anybody know when they started putting on the electronic timer control on the HM 10000e? My sticker says it was built in Apr.2015. Sticker also said it was tested in Apr.2010. How can it be tested before it was made. I called the Company and gave my Serial no. and he said my boiler didn't come with a timer. I don't understand that they started putting the timer on after the May 1st 2015 deadline. I need someone to explain this to me.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6