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16
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: safety and safety gear
« on: January 22, 2009, 08:27:45 PM »
Don't forget those chaps! They save wear and tear on your pants and a nasty cut from the old saw. 
17
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Greenwood Aspen 175
« on: January 22, 2009, 08:13:30 PM »
Anyone running an Aspen 175?
18
Equipment / Re: Looking for a good log splitter
« on: December 29, 2008, 12:54:13 PM »
Look on "american log splitters". Well made, a friend has had one for years. They offer an optional 30,36 and 48 inch splitter opening. That should take care of what you are looking for. I believe they will build what you need. Hope this helps..Charlie 
19
WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?
« on: December 15, 2008, 06:26:29 PM »
Dirtslinger
I do. Added a 4 foot section from woodmaster. A chimney cap and one more important thing, a storm collar to keep the water from going down between the pipe and the top of the stove, in the event that the seal fails. For under 20 dollars you can keep your stove insulation dry and your stove from rusting out around the pipe. Cheap inurance that not many people have thought about. Put a bead of silicone around the storm collar were it meets the pipe. Anystove that has a top exiting pipe could sure benefit from a simple storm collar. Get a collar for your brand of pipe so it fits. Dealer should offer that ,but they don't! Going on 7 years with my 434 Woodmaster. Burn all year long. Hope this helps...Charlie
I do. Added a 4 foot section from woodmaster. A chimney cap and one more important thing, a storm collar to keep the water from going down between the pipe and the top of the stove, in the event that the seal fails. For under 20 dollars you can keep your stove insulation dry and your stove from rusting out around the pipe. Cheap inurance that not many people have thought about. Put a bead of silicone around the storm collar were it meets the pipe. Anystove that has a top exiting pipe could sure benefit from a simple storm collar. Get a collar for your brand of pipe so it fits. Dealer should offer that ,but they don't! Going on 7 years with my 434 Woodmaster. Burn all year long. Hope this helps...Charlie
20
WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?
« on: December 08, 2008, 12:29:41 PM »
With the snow melting on your roof, maybe there's an open weld on your water side, above the water line. Putting hot water vapor under your roof.LOL! Hope Woodmaster takes care of whatever the issue is, for you..Charlie
21
WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?
« on: November 07, 2008, 07:17:58 AM »
I think I add water maybe once or twice in a full year. I'll manually add water from the top just to make sure the low water light indicator is not burned out. So it really never has come on. The light does work. My stove runs year round. On at 150 degrees and off once it reaches 170. Have radiant heat and a 612 gallon buffer tank. Those temps work for me. My Woodmaster has treated me well!Going on 7 years.
22
WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?
« on: November 06, 2008, 06:18:15 AM »
DYE CHECK THE WATER! YOU'LL SEE EXACTLY WHERE IT'S LEAKING! I would never, ever take apart or work on a brand new stove. You paid for it to work as new! Get another stove. I'm sure there will be more leaks comming down the road. If you have to keep adding water, not only are you diluting your chemicals out , but introducing oxygen into the system with new water all the time, which spells corrosion.
23
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Oil furnace won't stop coming on
« on: November 04, 2008, 05:51:06 PM »
Murph,
Go to "HEATING HELP.COM". Post on there. Click on "WELCOME" at the top. Next you will see"THE WALL". Read that paragraph , it will tell you how to post a question. They will get back to you in a few hours. Hope this helps. Might just be the thermostat going bad. Charlie
Go to "HEATING HELP.COM". Post on there. Click on "WELCOME" at the top. Next you will see"THE WALL". Read that paragraph , it will tell you how to post a question. They will get back to you in a few hours. Hope this helps. Might just be the thermostat going bad. Charlie
24
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The new E classic 2300
« on: November 02, 2008, 04:43:28 PM »
Murph,
I couldn't agree more. Own a woodmaster for seven years now, but a gassifiaction stove will be my next stove. Less wood and more BTU's extracted. Who cares about big wood, when you get more from less. Most people burn half the amount they use to going to a gassification boiler. Especially if you have water storage which I already have.Plus you have to burn properly seasoned wood which REALLY lets you see the difference in heat output if you have never burned good dried wood before. Good luck and enjoy your new Gassifier....Charlie
I couldn't agree more. Own a woodmaster for seven years now, but a gassifiaction stove will be my next stove. Less wood and more BTU's extracted. Who cares about big wood, when you get more from less. Most people burn half the amount they use to going to a gassification boiler. Especially if you have water storage which I already have.Plus you have to burn properly seasoned wood which REALLY lets you see the difference in heat output if you have never burned good dried wood before. Good luck and enjoy your new Gassifier....Charlie
26
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: lets start a OWB "WHAT IF THREAD" TIPS
« on: October 26, 2008, 06:16:37 PM »
That's a great idea. In a pinch wood boiler survival! Heating outside the book! This makes thinkers! Sounds good!
27
WoodMaster / Re: Wood master...leaking?
« on: October 25, 2008, 05:54:27 PM »
You could dye check the water. Than you take a black light and it will glow where ever it's leaking. That will tell all. Also you should be reimburrsed for the dye kit if you find it is leaking.After all, they didn't think to do it. If it glows it goes.They use it to check radiators in cars, engine blocks, etc. When you mention you want to do that I think things will change. Dye dosen't lye. Sounds like some of the stove manufacturers just pumped out stoves to meet the demand in sales and got a little sloppy . Good luck.Hope this helps. Hate when people just can't step up to the plate. Post what you find if you can. Maybe you'll make an honest man out of the dealer. Dye can do funny things 
28
WoodMaster / Re: Smoking Question
« on: October 25, 2008, 05:44:42 PM »
Check the gasket at the top of the door. I took my woodmaster door right off. Laid it down, cleaned the old gasket out. Installed a new gasket with some high temp silicone to hold it in the grove. Then I filled the whole face of the gasket with hightemp silicone , screeded it all off even with the edge of the door. Let it dry over night. Put the door back on. Works great.Never gets hard. You might have to adjust the door. Woodmaster, I heated the latch inside and bent it with a fork tube off a harley. Wood master told me to slam the handle against the frame of the door when it was loose one time. NOOOOOOOOOO WAAAAAAAY! It's probaly going to be tight anyway. It will get a little looser after a week. Emailed Woodmaster to tell them, they should make an adjustable door like my neighbors Wood Doctor , but guess the didn't want to hear some customer input. Never emailed me back. A Wood Doctor you can adjust in or out, left to right and I believe up and down. Nice set up. Only saying this because a good door seal is vital. How's those apples!
29
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: October 25, 2008, 05:22:05 PM »
Plumbing dept.-Flexible rubber , pipe end cap. By the "Furnco couplers". Probaly a three inch. Your set up my be different. You'll have to see when the stove has cycled off, if it's drawing air thru the end of the motor housing. Cover it with plastic wrap and see if the smoke wisps shut down comming out of your chimney. Or do a smoke check with something to see if it's drawing air thru the motor end cap. Like you said your set up might be totally different from mine.
30
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: October 23, 2008, 05:00:39 PM »
Yoda, it seals the end of the motor housing that has slots cut into it. Squirrel cage is on the opposite end. My rubber flap the opens with the solenoid sits above the squirrel cage. when the flap is closed it can still draw air thru the other end of the motor housing, where the slots are, if the flexible pipe boot is not on. Maybe you set up is different. Worked for me, just fine.