Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: Gunpowder on November 29, 2016, 11:34:28 AM
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trench is dug up to the foundation outside the utility room of my office/nature center of my nonprofit. Need to cut an 8" hole in the floor and foundation block to run insulated pex into the park's furnace room to get our outdoor wood boiler installed.
I am guessing I am looking for a a heavy duty hammer drill or a concrete saw. I would think drilling a circular series of holes to make a honeycomb section to knock out would be best. Getting the pex turned into a 90 and ran up through the floor will be tough I bet.
What's your thoughts and expereinces?
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There is a saw that will cut a round hole, forget the name of it, and I believe you need to use water with it.
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If you can find someone that rents tools and carries the Husqvarna cut n break saw, it will do from 8" square on up, to a depth of 16". It doesn't require very much water either. Tim
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Rather than cutting a hole up through the slab and haunched edge of your slab that will never be compacted enough that the slab does not crack, did you ever consider coming up outside of the building and coming through the sill area, all you would need to do would be a small doghouse around your pipe and insulate it.
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We use a core bit for round hole in concrete but go through wall at sill area quite often. Hate coming up through floor,hitting rebar and the likes will ruin a core bit.
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Rather than cutting a hole up through the slab and haunched edge of your slab that will never be compacted enough that the slab does not crack, did you ever consider coming up outside of the building and coming through the sill area, all you would need to do would be a small doghouse around your pipe and insulate it.
That was our initial thoughts but then we thought we might go through floor and through the top block that generally is concrete filled. But I am running 95' so thinking Thermopex so not sure it will flex right. Imagine it will be hard to run thermapex through the side block and magically upward through a hole in the concrete :)
I am in the corner where my furnace room meets the shop and outside I only have about 2' between the wall and an overhead garage door so hate to box in in that area due to clearance. On the other hand, it is in a corner and building is T1-11 so can cut open and box in corner and no one would ever know.
Haven't decided yet.
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Neighbor does have a hammer drill or saw or something he said I can borrow. Just have to decide how I plan to enter the room... Wall or floor
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I brought my lines up through the floor in my shed using a Hilti drill and a core bit (think I only needed a 5 or 6 inch hole). You can use a saw also and water keeps the dust down and is required on a lot of the blades. My lines were 6' deep as I have a potable water line also but you will want to go deep enough at the building to allow a gradual bend when you come up through the floor. Would have been a lot easier had I remembered a sleeve during construction but my cement never cracked as I made sure to soak and compact the trench and hole when I back filled. Good luck.
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We use a core bit for round hole in concrete but go through wall at sill area quite often. Hate coming up through floor,hitting rebar and the likes will ruin a core bit.
I sawed and cored concrete for a living for over 4 years. Core bits are made to cut threw rebar and steel. Will not ruin a bit at all.
Hand saws, Ring saws, chain saws, wall saws, wire saws, flat saws and core drills. I've drilled serveral holes that were 36 inch diameter in waste water plants threw walls that are 12-18 inch thick with tons of huge bar
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Any rental store in the world will have a core drill to rent. Do not use without water. Hand core drill are hard to run for a rookie and are only meant for up to a 6 inch bit. They do rent them with bases u mount them on and anchor to floor or wall which will require a hammer drill and a concrete anchor. They will rent u 110volt base mount core drill that can drill 10-12 inch holes pretty well with the right spacers on the drill which they will have took care of. The right store may rent a vacumm seal base that seals to floor without anchor but does require a pretty smooth floor to seal too. Otherwise your options are limited if your indoors as rental store will prolly not care hydraulic chainsaws or ring saws or the hydraulic pack needed to power it. You can prolly get a electric hand saw which will cut 5 inch deep with a 14" blade.
Drilling a circle of small holes with a hammer drill, would prolly work but be a pain and if u had a pass threw rebar it would cause u trouble. If u went that route I would defiantly get a good size drill with the chip-n-hammer feature which works like a mini jack hammer. And a chisel bit as well as the drill bit. Although u can chip with a bit.
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Maybe I'm buying the wrong bits, but I've got some with the teeth knocked out from rebar.
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Me too, and on haunched edge pads that the customer ( that poured the pad himself) said no way is there any rebar in there until I showed him the two pieces of cut off 3/4 inch rebar then it was oh jee I'm sorry and no I won't buy that $800 bit from Hilti!
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You can break the diamond segs, and it's a lot easier in holes that are 2 inch or smaller. You can still drill with one Seg missing if your careful. Once u loose one Seg u have to move to a different spot or get a bigger bit to drill over the hole. Once one is broke off and broke off in the hole the bit won't be able to drill unless u can remove the diamond segment from the cut. Causes of that can be a couple things. Hand drilling and having the bit kinda off square. Eliminate that with a base, too high speed can do it and when u first hit bar it's best to start easy till you go though.
In bigger bits you can drill with several segs missing as long as there's not more than one in row in a spot. Actually usaully cuts faster
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This is in the inside corner of an L shaped building. I just poured a mini 3x3 pad approximately 3' down and ran block out and around to the other side of the building (think 2 sided L shaped block wall).
Skipped 2 rows of block in one area and then ran a bar across to support the next row of block that is just below the surface grade. Then the last row finishes the foundation.
Add a sill plate, frame, T1-11, insulation. Pex will run through the new hole and up the original wall. I will cut through the wall to access the pex. The new box is insulated. Back fill with pea gravel inside and back-fill trench outside. Enable me to replace pipe in future years.
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Sounds like a lot of work, perhaps simply coming above ground on the outside of the building and then coming through the sill then boxing it in with an insulated box might have been easier.
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Sounds like a lot of work, perhaps simply coming above ground on the outside of the building and then coming through the sill then boxing it in with an insulated box might have been easier.
Ya but I had some copper water lines running across the room in that area and my pressure tank is right there too. Hey. at least I don't need to bend over too much :thumbup:
Hard part is done. I just need to install pex and then put in the sill plate and wood framing/siding.
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To close out this thread, I blocked in a square in the corner outside and framed and sided it with T1-11. Cut hole in wall and drywall. was a long journey but it's installed.