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[skyking]

I  have last years model of the 250 and just fired it up a few weeks ago.  Does anybody else have moisture (creosote) leaking around the front wood loading door.  I talked to Rory at P&M and he said it was normal for this time of year when the cycle times were short.  Also, what do you have the primary and secondary air adjustments set to, Rory said to set them at 10 and 5. My stove has the turbulators installed.   I love my Optimizer.   :thumbup:Thanks.

[Firechaser]

I have an ML30 and I have creosote leaking out the ash pan door. This is my first year and I am planning to call them.

[Bill G]

Skyking,
I got a bit dripping also, not enough to be overly concerned at this point, and can probably blame it on long idle times.  That is changing rapidly here in PA! 

Also curious if others have fooled with air adjusters, to find optimum setting.  Mine smokes some during burn and I am going to try and get it cleaned up some.  My wood is dry, so we'll play around to see whats best.  Will try the 10-5 setting next.

Bill

[martyinmi]

I  have last years model of the 250 and just fired it up a few weeks ago.  Does anybody else have moisture (creosote) leaking around the front wood loading door.  I talked to Rory at P&M and he said it was normal for this time of year when the cycle times were short.  Also, what do you have the primary and secondary air adjustments set to, Rory said to set them at 10 and 5. My stove has the turbulators installed.   I love my Optimizer.   :thumbup:Thanks.

I just spoke to Rory yesterday. In this milder weather they would like us to set our aquastats up to 175*-180*. Also, the differentials need to be lower than the factory setting till it gets colder(4*). Tighten that door up Mr. King! Almost feels like I know you?
   Marty

[skyking]

I have mine set at 175* with a 4* dif.  The wood loading door is not leaking now but the bottom refractory door is, I tightened it up, will see what happens.  It seems to be condensing on the loading door and running down inside and laying inside the refractory door.

[martyinmi]

skyking-He wants us all to send him water samples. I'm going to Walley World tomorrow to buy some small bottles.
Bill G-Make sure your wood isn't too dry. Mine smokes a bit if it's too dry(12% or under).

[Bill G]

Marty,

     My wood don't seem to be overly dry, but now that weather has really turned, it is working like a Champ!  I figured I needed more burn times so set to 177off/169 on.  That helped a lot. 

     Got 14 hrs on 6 pcs of split oak and found nice bed of coals and water at 176.  Smoke issue non-existent now that we're at or under 30deg.  Very Pleased with the P&M!  Long idle times seem to cause minor troubles.  I can see where a very small dif would be called for during mild weather.

     I read your post on sending a water sample in for testing?  That, I will try to get done, on Monday.  Thank's for the heads-up on that!

     Interested in how many turns open you have your draft set at?   Mine at 15 and 4...and seems good.  I think I read 15-3 for starting point, but mild weather not condusive for getting a good read.

Bill

[martyinmi]

Mine is newer than yours. I think they must have used coarser threads in this years model. We've all opened our top about 4 full turns and the bottom about 2-2.5 A little more air in the primary burn chamber seems to burn off creosote better by making the flame in there "roar" a bit more. When did you purchase yours?
   Marty

[Bill G]

Marty,

      Appreciate the opportunity to compare notes!

      Bought mine in May.  Ser. #11010, which I assume may mean 10th one made in '11?? 

      On air-flow settings: mine appears to have 1/4-20 threads.  My booklet says 10-15 on top and 2-3 turns on bottom.  I see where yours is set for only 4 on top?  Mine does smoke a bit when blower is on and perhaps if I went in a bit, maybe it would clean up quicker?

      Upon delivery, they told me to remove the upright fire brick from the bottom burn chamber and to re-arrange so most of burn chamber is flat, all covered with fire brick, of course.  The salesman said it would gasify much quicker and better.  I took his advice and did as instructed.  It does sound and look much like a jet-engine w/afterburners going!  Just the 2 rear most fire bricks are still up-right.  My knuckles were skinned up plenty by then and reaching back that far wasn't fun, plus the rear 2 weren't budging anyhow!  After re-arranging, I had 4 bricks left over.  He also said ash accumulated much too quickly between the up-right firebricks. Curious as to what configuration of the firebricks are in yours, and if you were instructed to do same?  Maybe just from salesman's personal experience, from burning his for a year?

      Now that the zones in house call for heat, every so often, I noticed today that it was indeed firing more often.  Wood consuption went up accordingly today.  So, I set the controls to 180off/170on.  From yesterdays 177/169.

      Keep in touch....

Bill

[martyinmi]

Bill,
   My serial # is 11123. A few lines under that is the date of manufacture. Mine is hand-written and says June 27, 2011. I'm looking at my owners manual as we speak and mine says "the top valve(primary air) can be open 4 to5 turns, and the bottom(secondary air) is only 3 to 4 turns".
   It's my understanding that they changed the brick configuration in the secondary burn chamber sometime before mine was built. Mine has no upright bricks. If yours has turbulators it is more than likely last year's model, or as you said very early this year's.
   I would set your differential to 4 or 5 until it gets real cold. If you are on at 170* and off at 180*, yours must be  set at 9. It seems to be an industry trend to cycle more often to keep the condensate burned off in the burn chambers.
   I can't say enough good about this OWB. It's the 2'nd gasser I've owned, and definitely the better built of the two. I read about people who own other brands of OWB's who have daily maintenence(cleaning air holes, keeping ash away from air holes, using paper clips in the door to keep them going, etc.) to perform and it sure seems nice to be able to just throw wood in it and go about your daily business.
   I'm ready for some winter. I want to give this old gal a workout!

Marty   

[Bill G]

Marty,

      Dark, cold and snowy outside, and I put er' to bed for the night!  But, I'll turn the top in and back out 5 turns, just to see how it goes, in the AM. 

      Never saw a "Built date" on my tag, but could have missed it.  Will get the bi-focals out! 

      If you could compare the thread size on air-flow??, mine is most definately 1/4-20 UNC, the most common size of 1/4 threads.

      Also, yes I have the curly-Q turbulators.  Wonder if they help or just collect more dust?  I did give thorough cleaning after 2 weeks of burning, end of Sept and 1st week of Oct.  (I've been back burning for 1 week now.)  They did have a bit of dust and slightly "greasy" feel when cleaning.  Slight film of creosote I would think.  Did clean up the whole boiler easy enough.  Only difficulty was running bore brush in 2" vertical pipes.  Quite the bend on "cleaning rod".  I was 99.9% sure it was dead out and used my old shop vac on it also.  Of course left outside, after emptying, cause not to thrilled with burning garage down!!  Compressed air tank seems like could make a mess, but probably would do well.

      Thanks for the info, Marty, glad to hear your thoughts/experiences.

Bill

[martyinmi]

Do you have 2 cleaning doors on the back of your stove or 1? Mine has only 1. I've heard they went away from the turbulators and just made the horizontal tubes the next size larger.
   I'll look at my thread size tomorrow. I'm wondering if they made the air adjusting plates and holes larger on the newer models? Maybe thats why we don't run ours quite as many turns out as you do.
   Every day is a learning experience when it comes to these gasifiers, isn't it?

   Marty

[Bill G]

Marty,

     2 clean out doors.  And 1.5" plus 2" bore brushes.  Horizontal being 1.5 and vert. -2".

     Never took cover off of air supply to see what size the dampers are??  Maybe they made a change there??

     Yes, learning as the burning season progresses...but will be very happy to not recieve those propane bills!!!  I sure hope to squeeze every year out of this boiler as possible, thus "all ears" on maint., and operation.  As stated, glad to compare notes!! 

Bill

[skyking]

Had a issue with my Optimizer today.  I noticed lately that it did not seem be gasifying as hotly and loudly as it did initially and that I was getting a lot of condensation out the refractory door.  Today it got worse, so started checking what could be the problem.  Checked the wood moisture, ash and elm, it was anywhere from 15 to 22%, so  didn't think that to be the issue.  I thought might have a blockage in the injection fan enclosure, it was clear.  I had thoroughly cleaned the heat exchangers on Friday, so knew them to be clean (only a light coating of dust and fly ash).   I finally found the problem, some of the air holes for the firebox draft along the top of the firebox were plugged and most importantly the bottom one in the back.  I never really had paid attention to their location, I know where they are now!  They are located on each side and bottom of the injection tube that is at the top of the firebox, approx. 5/8 to 3/4 inches in diameter.  There is also one at the bottom of the tube in the back of the firebox.  I  think I found out what the  hook  on the end of the ash poker that came with the stoves are used for, to clean out the draft  holes!  I now know to check and make sure they are open.  I think the one in the back and bottom of the square tube got plugged by pushing coals and wood against them when I loaded the stove.

[skyking]

Talked to Rory, at P&M, today.  He advised to remove all of the turbulators, turn firebrick in refractory on side (as Bill has suggested) and to run at 180* with 10* dif (or on at 180 and off at 170).  They are changing recommendations as they gain experience and receive feedback from guys like us.  He does want a water sample from each of us (as Marty stated earlier in his post).  Send it to P&M in care of him.