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Home Made / Re: Forced air build
« on: February 16, 2014, 08:47:11 PM »
I would also like to add,,,, that my stove smokes no worse than the Hardy and Shaver stoves I see.
My building is 40X80 , 17' to the peak with 2-12x12 and 1-14x12 doors.
My building is 40X80 , 17' to the peak with 2-12x12 and 1-14x12 doors.
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Home Made / Re: Forced air build
« on: February 16, 2014, 08:35:51 PM »
UPDATE: I believe my secondary burn tubes really don't help due to the wood I burn, if I can pick it up and it will fit in the door I burn it. Its also hard to cure a 3' length of wood. An 8" stick of wood 36" long is heavy, so the bigger around the shorter I cut. My box depth is 42" and if I recall the door is 25" wide and 27" tall which is perfect but my door weighs around 300lb.
I didn't use fire brick, just let the ash get a couple inches deep, shovel ash from the front and rake coals forward every 3-4 days. The chimney stays surprisingly clean. I wish I had used 8" chimney for more draft instead of 6" just for when I open the door.
What has really impressed me is I can load the stove on top of coals, shut the tstat off, and seven days later still have coals enough to start a fire.
I put the air intake low in the building, and the heated air comes out of the top of the stove, so there is always a flow of hot air coming from the hot side.
Over all Im happy with the way it works and it was a fun build.
Theres 2 things I would do differently, 8" chimney and I would put a second blower to the firebox with a second tsat set at a lower temp for bringing it all up to temp faster,( bigger chimney might make this unnecessary).
Sorry this is so rattlebrained, just typing as I think or is it thinking as I type?
I didn't use fire brick, just let the ash get a couple inches deep, shovel ash from the front and rake coals forward every 3-4 days. The chimney stays surprisingly clean. I wish I had used 8" chimney for more draft instead of 6" just for when I open the door.
What has really impressed me is I can load the stove on top of coals, shut the tstat off, and seven days later still have coals enough to start a fire.
I put the air intake low in the building, and the heated air comes out of the top of the stove, so there is always a flow of hot air coming from the hot side.
Over all Im happy with the way it works and it was a fun build.
Theres 2 things I would do differently, 8" chimney and I would put a second blower to the firebox with a second tsat set at a lower temp for bringing it all up to temp faster,( bigger chimney might make this unnecessary).
Sorry this is so rattlebrained, just typing as I think or is it thinking as I type?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: National Farm Show
« on: February 11, 2013, 04:36:23 PM »
Scott your my kinda guy,,,, helpful, with a small evil streak.
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Home Made / Re: Forced air build
« on: February 10, 2013, 03:49:15 PM »
This is more of a free standing stove (that has secondary tubes) copy and not a secondary chamber. I have a Jotul castine free standing stove in my house. The secodary tubes just bring hot fresh air into the fire chamber which then fires off the smoke, gives good burn times on a pretty small amount of wood. With this design of course the wood burns, but alot of times the flame doesnt really even touch the wood, its just the smoke burning, quite relaxing to watch. Its also very clean in the chimney area.
The secondary you are talking about does get to extreme temps that I am not expecting with this setup.
This is different than any furnace I have seen, and I realize it might not work the way I hope for it to.
The secondary you are talking about does get to extreme temps that I am not expecting with this setup.
This is different than any furnace I have seen, and I realize it might not work the way I hope for it to.
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Home Made / Re: Forced air build
« on: February 10, 2013, 11:15:37 AM »
There will be a blower that will kick on with a fan limit switch.
A wall thermostat will control the fan in the door and the dampner.
I had concerns about the secondary air and can plug that off if Im not liking the way things perform.
In my area, years ago there were several furnace manufactures, all were built the same way. 2 approx 6" pipes out of the firebox in the back, those 2 tubes went to the front of the furnace where they were joined to an approx 8" pipe that went to the back of the furnace and then to the chimney. Each had a cleanout door. I remember lots and lots of creosote,,, but that could have been that freshly cut oak block throwed in to make the fire last through the night. Most of these were connected to duct work, many are still in use today and alot of them are being used in shops with no duct work.
I just used 1 chimney pipe hoping for less to no creosote,,, plus my wood will be more cured,,,after I get ahead. Also this will only be used for heating my shop which is rather large with tall ceilings.
I currently heat with a waste oil furnace,, which works very nicely,, when it works. Its 5 winters old and is burnt out. Prices have doubled in the last 5 years = not in my budget.
Hardy OWB is huge in my area and the local dealer is a neighbor/customer but I just couldnt budget for this either.CB is starting to come in the area but I believe he is only selling the furnace, the install is not his thing. Earth and Shaver are kinda local, manufactor wise.
Right now I have less in the build than the small earth furnace,,,even counting buying a habor freight plasma cutter (which I highly recommend).
Once installed I'll list the good and bad of my design.
A wall thermostat will control the fan in the door and the dampner.
I had concerns about the secondary air and can plug that off if Im not liking the way things perform.
In my area, years ago there were several furnace manufactures, all were built the same way. 2 approx 6" pipes out of the firebox in the back, those 2 tubes went to the front of the furnace where they were joined to an approx 8" pipe that went to the back of the furnace and then to the chimney. Each had a cleanout door. I remember lots and lots of creosote,,, but that could have been that freshly cut oak block throwed in to make the fire last through the night. Most of these were connected to duct work, many are still in use today and alot of them are being used in shops with no duct work.
I just used 1 chimney pipe hoping for less to no creosote,,, plus my wood will be more cured,,,after I get ahead. Also this will only be used for heating my shop which is rather large with tall ceilings.
I currently heat with a waste oil furnace,, which works very nicely,, when it works. Its 5 winters old and is burnt out. Prices have doubled in the last 5 years = not in my budget.
Hardy OWB is huge in my area and the local dealer is a neighbor/customer but I just couldnt budget for this either.CB is starting to come in the area but I believe he is only selling the furnace, the install is not his thing. Earth and Shaver are kinda local, manufactor wise.
Right now I have less in the build than the small earth furnace,,,even counting buying a habor freight plasma cutter (which I highly recommend).
Once installed I'll list the good and bad of my design.
8
Home Made / Forced air build
« on: February 09, 2013, 09:09:42 PM »
Had new stove bought but the deal fell through at the very last minute.
So I decided to build it myself, I wanted forced air for the simpleness.
I made secondary burn tubes trying to copy the epa free standing stoves on the market.
The door opening is 24x25.
Enjoy
So I decided to build it myself, I wanted forced air for the simpleness.
I made secondary burn tubes trying to copy the epa free standing stoves on the market.
The door opening is 24x25.
Enjoy
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Post some pics of your wood piles and stoves. Heres mine
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:50:31 PM »
The stove is being built
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Anyone else out cuttin wood?
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:45:42 PM »
I cut a nice sized load before the ground started thawing this AM.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Post some pics of your wood piles and stoves. Heres mine
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:42:11 PM »
First pic is the gear, 856 IH with loader and boom pole,
Second is the front loader loaded,
Third is the boom pole loaded,
Fourth and fifth are two of the piles needing cut up, (the first wood pile pic got reduced to a very small pile before it started raining (and I ran outta gas))
Second is the front loader loaded,
Third is the boom pole loaded,
Fourth and fifth are two of the piles needing cut up, (the first wood pile pic got reduced to a very small pile before it started raining (and I ran outta gas))
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Anyone else out cuttin wood?
« on: February 02, 2013, 04:34:41 PM »
I cut and haul my wood full lenght 10 to 12 ft and haul it out of the woods then cut to lenght 3 ft or shorter at the house. This morning before noon I cut 5 pickup loads, full length. Im beat. Im guessing that I have 3 full days of cutting piled up to be cut to 3 ft lenght.
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Home Made / Re: New Build, pics and questions
« on: January 27, 2013, 04:37:14 PM »
Instead of redoing the lower ledge, could the unit be tipped up, say, an inch so the creosote would run towards the back.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Anode rod
« on: January 26, 2013, 09:08:41 PM »
The only experience I have had with an anode rod is in my electric water heater. The heater was 3 years old and one day the hot water started smelling like sulfer. My local plumbing store that sold me the water heater, said they had only sold 2 anode rods, mine and one other for the same reason. Best I recall the stinky rod looked used except the end away from the threads was shiney like it was new.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Using OWB for cooling
« on: January 18, 2013, 06:51:46 AM »
It can be done, but Im not sure how. Heres a company that sells waste oil furnaces, they also sell waste oil a/c units. http://www.econoheat.com/waste-oil-equipment/air-conditioners/ .I have one of their heaters and I dont recommend the company, but just showing that there is a unit using fire to make a/c.
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