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[dakotaman]

I am looking for a device to monitor the temperature of the water in the copper piping as it enters the house. The device should have a low and high temperature sensor and an alarm system should the water temperature drop below 160 or above 180 degree (roughly). It would need to have a probe that could somehow attach to the piping. It would be helpful if the system was wireless so that the alarm itself was upstairs. Even better, there might be an IPhone option. Do any of you know of such a device? Thanks.

[andyhowardcity]

That would be awesome and I would buy one if someone invented it if it is not available.

[slimjim]

I know that they are available but don't know the brand or model and won't be at my supply house for about 2 weeks but I would contact Grainger and talk with them, Pricey but I bet they have it.

[bajonesy77]

This is a awesome product that has tons of options and features and the ones your looking for!  http://www.controlbyweb.com/x300/

[Muskoka98]

Unit arrived yesterday, very impressed with quality of finish and attention to detail.  Started on trench from house to unit.
 

[slimjim]

keep us in the loop

[Crow]

Finally got off the fence and ordered a BL28-40 also. Should be here in a couple weeks, so time to get ready for delivery.

[slimjim]

Thanks guys please let me know how you make out.

[dakotaman]

I am installing my new stove and am having some challenges finding the fitting to connect my old poly b pipe to the new pipe (from ground to the stove fitting). I am looking for a copper or brass barbed fitting for a the poly b with an inside diameter of 7/8 inch. The male threaded end can be 3/4 or 1 inch in diameter. I have looked for this part online and have visited a number of stores. If anyone knows where I can find this part, please let me know. Thanks.

[slimjim]

you should be able to find it at any good plumbing and heating store, if you can't then contact Brian at PM, i'm sure he has them.

[Muskoka98]

Update on BL28-40.  Unit arrived when the shipper stated (very heavy).  Install went smooth with a few leaks as I had numerous connections (installed thermometers, pressure gauges & filter).  Filled as per manual and circulated water to get through mixing of stabilizer.  Fired her up this morning and within 15 min water was @ 80 degrees.  Now 9 hours later and everything is working like clockwork.  Sidearm is making lots of hot water and furnace coil heats the house much faster than the old Newmac wood furnace (a lot cleaner as wood is now outside).  Plumbed the filter inline and have 1psi pressure drop, system pressure is 7psi with pump on low 10psi on high.  Furnace coil incoming temp is 180 degrees and outgoing 160 degrees.  Will post some pics later.

[slimjim]

Sounds very good, I would like to see you turn up the temps a bit and also close the differential a bit, 190 for high, 5-10 degree differential, you are a bit high on the differential across the heat exchanger, can you speed up the circ a bit.

[dakotaman]

I also have my bl28-40 installed and running. The weather here in Northern Ontario is already cold with our first snowfall last night. I am also wondering about the most efficient heat settings. I have the temperature set for 180 F and the differential at 10. I generally find that although the fan shuts off at 180, the stove will often reach a temp. of 183 to 185 before it begins to cool. I am wondering if I should reduce the max temperature setting to 170 or 175 degrees. On another note, I had to add 9 ft of piping to the stack and instead of using guy wires, I have supported the chimney to the lifting hook on the top of the stove with a telescopic rod that is normally used to support a chimney to the roof of a home. It works well and provides enough support for high winds.

[dakotaman]

Hi Slimjim,

Just reading your comment again and recommendation about turning the max. temperature on the boiler to 190. Just wondering what your rationale is and why this might be more efficient. I was considering lowering the temp. from 180. I am certainly looking for the most efficient burn. I appreciate the feedback.

[slimjim]

Good morning Dakotaman, I like to run all my boilers as hot as possible, to keep them burning as clean as possible, this is the reason for the brick lining in your B-L model, another benefit to running hot is to eliminate more oxygen in the water, running it hot will not hurt the unit as long as it does not consistantly boil at the top of it's cycle, watch for steam exiting the vent tube, if you see visible steam then back off the temp by 5 degrees, different elevations boil water at different temps so this is the best way that I have found to set the high limit temps. As far as the over run on the temp, please check to be sure you have no air leaks in your door gaskets if you do then please adjust the doors, they are easily adjusted on all sides, the extra stack is creating extra draft and may be pulling fresh air in through the doors, the over run may also simply be low heat load, remember you have a lot of poured refractory cement in that unit, once it gets hot it stays hot, with little heat load it may spike a bit but will not cause a problem as long as it does not go to steam consistantly. Now for the big question how do you like your new B-L series from Portage and Main, I can't sell them here but am dying for more feedback on it, I really like what I see and hear from my friend Dave who does sell them in Wi.