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Messages - bowood

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1
Central Boiler / Photosensor on E 1450
« on: July 14, 2019, 08:41:55 AM »
The light switch on my E 1450 has three positions: on, off, and auto.  The auto has never done anything differently from the on for me.  I assume either the photo sensor is not sensitive enough or isn't working.  Does anyone know the specs of the part?  I figure before I take it apart to figure it out I'd buy another photo sensor to have on hand.  Else I'll just take it apart and post the specs here.  Thanks for any advice.

2
Central Boiler / Re: Firestar xp screen?
« on: January 19, 2019, 12:23:02 PM »
I posted a firestar picture here.  Are these the colors you are talking about?

http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=8340.0

3
Central Boiler / Re: Leaving for winter how to leave boiler?
« on: September 16, 2018, 07:13:42 AM »
For my setup I have a propane furnace on my radiant floor loop that comes on if the wood boiler isn't on.  This way if I leave my circulator running it heats the wood furnance. I like to do that infrequently, but it ensures my wood boiler never cools down.

4
General Discussion / Re: Ticks
« on: November 04, 2017, 09:11:19 PM »
Permethrin treated clothing helps

5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Thermostat by-pass valve ???
« on: November 04, 2017, 02:04:21 PM »
My understanding is that constant temperature is important for the CB to prevent condensation and thus corrosion.  So having the bypass helps you avoid putting a load pulling heat out of the boiler too early when warming up or after it has cooled down.  I have a propane backup so I removed the bypass.  I want the propane boiler to pull heat into the wood boiler on the rare chance I have the fire out.  I.e. removing the bypass helped me keep the CB at constant temperature.  In fact I believe the manual said this is one of the only cases where they actually recommend removing the bypass.

6
Central Boiler / Re: New E1450 with WIFI module
« on: October 09, 2017, 05:05:14 PM »
I added the Central Boiler Firestar Module into Samsung SmartThings.  Now I can see the temperatures next to all the door and thermostat sensors.  Its a prototype at this point but it works.  I'll add more to it later.  Here is the source code:

https://github.com/bowood/CentralBoiler

7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 04:58:36 PM »
I think setbacks and such are grandfathered, but that the months allowed for burning are not grandfathered.  Worried your town will pass such a thing?

8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 04:21:14 PM »
As far as I can tell someone asked at a board meeting.  Presumably heard about similar ordinance elsewhere.

9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 01:58:07 PM »
The time frame is a new addition added in 2015: http://philipstown.com/tba72915.pdf

10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 10:45:07 AM »
I got the permit and complied.  Not too big a deal, but glad it hasn't gotten cold yet.

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 08:10:25 AM »
My Town's regulations: http://philipstown.com/bd%20furnace.pdf
Code 172.6.D: "Months of operation. Wood-fired furnaces shall be operated only between November 1 and April 15."

12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Almost
« on: October 09, 2017, 07:24:41 AM »
Lucky it is still warm in here in NY.  Municipality passed a law saying I cannot fire up until October 31st.

13
Central Boiler / Re: E1450 clogged heat exchanger tubes - creosote
« on: July 18, 2017, 08:30:32 AM »
5 out of my 7 heat exchange ducts clogged.  I used a rod for a chimney brush to clear a path for the chain that came with the boiler.  Dropped the chain through and unplugged each easily.  I'm glad I read this post to realize that all 7 are supposed to be clear.  I thought at first they connected into a single duct on each side and so that it was normal to not be able to get the chain through all 7.

14
Portage & Main / Re: Hows the burning season going for everyone?
« on: January 19, 2017, 07:00:40 PM »
Sounds like you need to use primary/secondary plumbing to supply all of the different loops that you want to. If the water temp needs to be consistent for all of them you can use parallel primary/secondary. Here's a link to a very complete overview of boiler plumbing http://www.slideshare.net/cooppower/siegenthaler-presentation-small
slide 40 shows a parallel primary/secondary plumbing example.

This is fantastic.  I figured much of this by drawing my own diagrams for thought experiments, but I had not deduced these hydraulic separation concepts.  This is going to help me solve this.

15
Portage & Main / Re: Hows the burning season going for everyone?
« on: January 19, 2017, 05:00:58 PM »
My setup is a little crazy.  I think a diagram will be better than pictures which I need more time to finish.  Basically the wood boiler is a an always on loop off a low loss header for radiant floor and then heat exchanger to a loop out to the boiler.  So it keeps the low loss header hot and prevents propane that monitors the header from coming on.  This is perfect because it means if the boiler runs out of wood the propane supplies the boiler heat and thus I never installed the thermostatic valve that came with the boiler.  My boiler stays an even 150F without wood and then the 175F-185F cycle with wood.  Should keep the temperature swing triggered condensation to a minimum.  Though its a little wasteful if I fail to use the boiler for an extended period of time.  The problem is that it is essentially a completely separate loop from the hot water tank to the propane boiler.  Little to no flow goes between those two loops.  Its an indirect heated water tank with a mixer for domestic hot water so no concerns having it just be 185F when wood is in the wood boiler, so I'd like to just have always on loop to it when the wood boiler is on but I've got a few other similar loops in mind for other purposes.  For example the house also has a geothermal forced air system.  The installer put a heat exchanger into the duct work, but they gave up on figuring out how to give it wood heat.  I've mapped out how to do it, but then its yet another loop to get to flow in the right direction at the right time (i.e. pump only on when a zone demands forced air).  My diagram with too many loops makes me think some check valves are a good idea to ensure that some of the pump scenarios still flow the directions I intend.  I'll figure it out eventually and share a diagram or too.

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