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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Tree fell on Shaver Boiler
« on: May 10, 2018, 09:33:24 PM »
Last Thursday evening, one of our many oak trees fell on my Shaver 165 boiler. It has been in service 10-11 years. It is not damaged beyond repair, but is heavily damaged. My insurance company has stated they will replace it.
I buy my wood, so I am not getting "Free Heat". I have calculated in the past that propane needs to be around $1.20 per gal or less to be comparable to my wood costs for the season. My last full season use of propane was 1000 gal. I think that was before I insulated my floors. I have a farm house built in 1917. It is fairly energy efficient, except for the old double hung windows with storms over them.
Last summer, I had to repair a leak in the bottom of the water jacket. It appeared that other leaks may be over the horizon. I reworked the insulation and seals before last season, getting good burns throughout last winter. Probably the best I have ever gotten.
Since Shaver is gone, should I just take the money and run to my propane supplier, or should I look toward another boiler purchase? I know I keep my house a few degrees warmer with the boiler, than I did with the propane furnace. I also enjoy my endless supply of hot water. I tend to get fewer complaints from my wife and daughter when the hot water is in plenty supply. BTW, my propane furnace is approaching 15 years old, but has been used little since installing the Shaver 11 years ago.
Any advice on my next move?
Thanks
I buy my wood, so I am not getting "Free Heat". I have calculated in the past that propane needs to be around $1.20 per gal or less to be comparable to my wood costs for the season. My last full season use of propane was 1000 gal. I think that was before I insulated my floors. I have a farm house built in 1917. It is fairly energy efficient, except for the old double hung windows with storms over them.
Last summer, I had to repair a leak in the bottom of the water jacket. It appeared that other leaks may be over the horizon. I reworked the insulation and seals before last season, getting good burns throughout last winter. Probably the best I have ever gotten.
Since Shaver is gone, should I just take the money and run to my propane supplier, or should I look toward another boiler purchase? I know I keep my house a few degrees warmer with the boiler, than I did with the propane furnace. I also enjoy my endless supply of hot water. I tend to get fewer complaints from my wife and daughter when the hot water is in plenty supply. BTW, my propane furnace is approaching 15 years old, but has been used little since installing the Shaver 11 years ago.
Any advice on my next move?
Thanks
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re-insulating my Shaver 165
« on: October 02, 2017, 10:48:25 AM »
Hello,
I am posting in the general forum, because my questions can apply across many brands. Move it to the Shaver Forum if needed.
I removed all of the exterior metal siding from my Shaver 165 wood boiler last week. I have had it in service 10 years. I decided I needed to check for leaks, insulation condition, and water tank rust. I did not find any leaks, but did find rust. It has been about 3-4 years since I took off the roof sheet metal to inspect the interior of the water tank, thus resealing with RTV sealant. (And I will testify this is the only way to make sure the RTV is completely sealing the plate!)
After peeling off the insulation, I discovered the top metal of the water tank was rusted severely. I removed the rust scale with a prybar fork as best as I could. No holes as I can see. I then treated the water tank exterior with Ospho, which chemically kills the rust, turning it black. I think it was caused by the leaking RTV seal on the cover plate, which allowed the insulation to get and stay wet.
I have an old farmhouse built in 1917, which has had about all of the upgrades that can be made to make it more energy efficient. i.e. R32 attic insulation, drop ceilings to 8' from 10', R-19 in floors, storm windows, blower door test / replaced leaky forced air duct work, weather calking everywhere imaginable. Total living space around 1800 sq. ft.
I live in North Arkansas where the average winter hi/low temperature is between 26 and 50 degrees. I average burning 7 - 8 cords per year. To compare, I averaged 800-1000 gallons of propane the last 2 years I exclusively used it. I mostly buy my wood. We like our house around 76 degrees F in the winter. I fire my boiler at 150 max, but will raise it to 160 in below freezing temps.
I made the fan damper and drywell Ranco thermostat modifications the second year in service. Absolutely a necessity. Last week I took the burn chamber / ash doors to a machine shop to weld a 3/4" track around the perimeters so I can install a rope gasket on each. I tried using a rope gasket before, but it would not stay in place after a few weeks of use. The track will give more surface for the adhesive to hold it in place.
I also just re plumbed the hot water coil to split the cold water supply on the hot water heater, forcing the cold water to circulate through the boiler coil before entering the hot water tank's cold water pipe. The setup has ball valves to allow the loop to be closed off when the boiler is not fired. I may need a mixing valve here to prevent scalding. I have not used the water coil the last two years, as my Armstrong circulating pump quit working.
My main question is for replacing insulation. I see pictures on the web of various brands with what appears to be 8-10" of batts surrounding the water tank. The Shaver had maybe 2", with the reflective radiant foil on one side. The bottom was not insulated. There were 6" fiberglass un-faced batts on the top, with the radiant foil overlaid on top of the fiberglass.
Would I save fire wood by adding 2" x 2" stringers on top of the skin frame, and insulating with 6" of fiberglass batts on the side walls? Or would Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board work better? Will the 180 degree water melt it? Is the foil radiant barrier on top give much help in retaining heat? Any other suggestions on better efficiency?
Sorry about the rambling on before getting to my question.
Thanks
Jerry
I am posting in the general forum, because my questions can apply across many brands. Move it to the Shaver Forum if needed.
I removed all of the exterior metal siding from my Shaver 165 wood boiler last week. I have had it in service 10 years. I decided I needed to check for leaks, insulation condition, and water tank rust. I did not find any leaks, but did find rust. It has been about 3-4 years since I took off the roof sheet metal to inspect the interior of the water tank, thus resealing with RTV sealant. (And I will testify this is the only way to make sure the RTV is completely sealing the plate!)
After peeling off the insulation, I discovered the top metal of the water tank was rusted severely. I removed the rust scale with a prybar fork as best as I could. No holes as I can see. I then treated the water tank exterior with Ospho, which chemically kills the rust, turning it black. I think it was caused by the leaking RTV seal on the cover plate, which allowed the insulation to get and stay wet.
I have an old farmhouse built in 1917, which has had about all of the upgrades that can be made to make it more energy efficient. i.e. R32 attic insulation, drop ceilings to 8' from 10', R-19 in floors, storm windows, blower door test / replaced leaky forced air duct work, weather calking everywhere imaginable. Total living space around 1800 sq. ft.
I live in North Arkansas where the average winter hi/low temperature is between 26 and 50 degrees. I average burning 7 - 8 cords per year. To compare, I averaged 800-1000 gallons of propane the last 2 years I exclusively used it. I mostly buy my wood. We like our house around 76 degrees F in the winter. I fire my boiler at 150 max, but will raise it to 160 in below freezing temps.
I made the fan damper and drywell Ranco thermostat modifications the second year in service. Absolutely a necessity. Last week I took the burn chamber / ash doors to a machine shop to weld a 3/4" track around the perimeters so I can install a rope gasket on each. I tried using a rope gasket before, but it would not stay in place after a few weeks of use. The track will give more surface for the adhesive to hold it in place.
I also just re plumbed the hot water coil to split the cold water supply on the hot water heater, forcing the cold water to circulate through the boiler coil before entering the hot water tank's cold water pipe. The setup has ball valves to allow the loop to be closed off when the boiler is not fired. I may need a mixing valve here to prevent scalding. I have not used the water coil the last two years, as my Armstrong circulating pump quit working.
My main question is for replacing insulation. I see pictures on the web of various brands with what appears to be 8-10" of batts surrounding the water tank. The Shaver had maybe 2", with the reflective radiant foil on one side. The bottom was not insulated. There were 6" fiberglass un-faced batts on the top, with the radiant foil overlaid on top of the fiberglass.
Would I save fire wood by adding 2" x 2" stringers on top of the skin frame, and insulating with 6" of fiberglass batts on the side walls? Or would Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board work better? Will the 180 degree water melt it? Is the foil radiant barrier on top give much help in retaining heat? Any other suggestions on better efficiency?
Sorry about the rambling on before getting to my question.
Thanks
Jerry
3
Equipment / Converting tractor log splitter for use with PTO driven pump
« on: October 13, 2011, 07:22:28 PM »
I have a tractor 3pt mount log splitter that I want to convert to use with a pto driven hyd pump. I plan to use it on a Ford 8N. This tractor does not have the live hydrolics that my Massey Ferguson had. The ferguson gave out, so onto a new plan.
I have found several PTO driven pumps at Northern Tool. One is linked here.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329702_200329702
I would also need a tank to go with the pump for the fluid. Link here for a 12 gal.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466866_200466866
Has any one here attempted and succeeded in converting a log splitter from internal tractor hydrolics to external hydrolics? Is this pump adequate? Should I step up to the 21 gpm unit?
Or just forget it, selling my 3 pt and buying a gas engine unit.
Thanks
I have found several PTO driven pumps at Northern Tool. One is linked here.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329702_200329702
I would also need a tank to go with the pump for the fluid. Link here for a 12 gal.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466866_200466866
Has any one here attempted and succeeded in converting a log splitter from internal tractor hydrolics to external hydrolics? Is this pump adequate? Should I step up to the 21 gpm unit?
Or just forget it, selling my 3 pt and buying a gas engine unit.
Thanks
4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Suggested Water Temperature on Boiler
« on: October 27, 2009, 06:02:38 PM »
I have a Shaver 165 purchased in 2007. Last season I added a damper / solenoid on the fan to get better burn, and to close up the fan opening when the boiler thermostat is not calling for more heat.
My question is what is the optimum water temperature for the boiler to get a good burn. The factory owner suggested 140 was best. The shutter style damper required a low setting as the draft would cause the boiler water to steam off if little heat demand was required, such as in warmer weather.
Will a setting of 160-180 deg. provide for a better burn / less smoke than the 140 deg? I believe that the Hardy Heaters state that 180 deg. will provide a better fire restart when more heat is required.
I just replaced the factory RTV upper door gasket with a fiberglass rope gasket. The ash door gasket was replaced with RTV material. I also applied RTV sealant to the flange on the draft fan. This has almost eliminated any drafts, which cause the water temp to rise when the draft fan is off.
On the Hardys Heaters, I have noticed they have very little or no draft when they are at idle. I have not been able to replicate this on my Shaver. Maybe I am geting some draft through the motor windings on the draft fan.
Thanks
Jerry
My question is what is the optimum water temperature for the boiler to get a good burn. The factory owner suggested 140 was best. The shutter style damper required a low setting as the draft would cause the boiler water to steam off if little heat demand was required, such as in warmer weather.
Will a setting of 160-180 deg. provide for a better burn / less smoke than the 140 deg? I believe that the Hardy Heaters state that 180 deg. will provide a better fire restart when more heat is required.
I just replaced the factory RTV upper door gasket with a fiberglass rope gasket. The ash door gasket was replaced with RTV material. I also applied RTV sealant to the flange on the draft fan. This has almost eliminated any drafts, which cause the water temp to rise when the draft fan is off.
On the Hardys Heaters, I have noticed they have very little or no draft when they are at idle. I have not been able to replicate this on my Shaver. Maybe I am geting some draft through the motor windings on the draft fan.
Thanks
Jerry
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