Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: tinfoilhat2020 on December 13, 2017, 08:49:45 AM
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ok guys,
we are expanding our dog kennels this spring and adding on another 1200sqft puppy whelping building up by the house. this building will only have 8ft ceilings and I will have it spray foamed no doubt. I also plan on doing R30 batt or equivalent blow in for the ceiling, so none the less it will be insulated well.
I am currently heating 4400 sqft as it is now the the G200. I have 2 sets of lines, one to the house and one for the shop. once I finish the ceiling insulation in the shop, it will be well insulated as the walls are spray foamed. The house is 2x6 construction and well insulated. Shop is heated by two 90k BTU heat exchangers, house is heated via forced air and of course the DHW.
I have a few questions/concerns: I want to add the 1200 sqft puppy room addition as well. This would raise my total Square feet to 5700. I would also have to add in a 3rd set of 1 1/4 rheau lines and set up a manifold on one of the supply and return ports.
I live is southeast Michigan. Who sees problems here??? or should I just upgrade or find a cheaper heating asolution for the addiontal building??
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How far from the boiler is this addition that you'd require 1-1/4" I know we talked about this awhile back but I tend to forget these things in my old age. I'd step the attic insulation up a bit, at least R38 but with foamed walls that 1200 sq ft will heat with a candle. Seeing your wood loads now, I say you have some room to expand
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building will be approximately 75-100ft from boiler. i also might build off the existing shop amd tee off the lines i already habe there. which may or Mau not work. i guess i should see where I'm at aftet this winter and then decide. but we will be breaking ground as soon as we can in the sping.
off i ran a 3rd set of lines, would it be best to go with a radiant slab system?
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Well, I’m heating 2800 sqft of house, 1850 sqft of poorly insulated shop and a sidewalk. Had the 14’ shop door wide open while I changed a trailer tire, all 200,000 BTU’s worth of shop heaters ran the whole time, dropped the storage water temp down to 147 degrees. was pulling a full 20F Δ with the house and the shop was pulling a full 30F Δ, G200 caught up and shut down. Shop insulation is crap, with all your spray foamed stuff I’d imagine it would barely notice another 1200sqft if done properly. I believe Schoppy is heating a lot more than you’ll have with a G200.
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good insaltion definitely makes a big difference!
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I would go with radiant in the Whelping building . This way you can run water heated to a lesser temp . If you have Doors to runs , their gonna leak alot of air . Radiant will have far less swing in temp .
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If you do forced air or especially radiant (think low temp emitter) a 1" line will easily heat it at that distance. I think a G2 will be fine. A few hours shorter burn time maybe.
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How far if you teed off in the other building instead of the furnace?
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A radiant slab is definitely going to be the most efficient means of heating the space, and recovery from opening doors and such is nearly unnoticeable. 1" underground will easily serve that space and suck much less to wrestle into the trench! Depending on load in the existing shop, which sounds pretty light, you'd probably be able to tee into those lines as suggested and run a second pump to serve the new building if it's closer and easier to go that route vs a new line from the boiler. Whether forced air or radiant, this would work either way. I'm smitten toward radiant, but the cost is quite a bit higher. Your call man!
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A radiant slab is definitely going to be the most efficient means of heating the space, and recovery from opening doors and such is nearly unnoticeable. 1" underground will easily serve that space and suck much less to wrestle into the trench! Depending on load in the existing shop, which sounds pretty light, you'd probably be able to tee into those lines as suggested and run a second pump to serve the new building if it's closer and easier to go that route vs a new line from the boiler. Whether forced air or radiant, this would work either way. I'm smitten toward radiant, but the cost is quite a bit higher. Your call man!
I'll go with radiant if you get your ass over here and drive across the frozen lake and install it for me hahaha
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You can't afford me ;) I like ya but that's a 13 hour drive each way! I get paid windshield time haha
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I get paid windshield time haha
Princess…
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I get paid windshield time haha
Princess…
Easy now...
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I think of it as a vacation when I drive to Maine from NY. Lol.
I have a customer with a g -200. Heating a 5000sq foot early 1900s bed and breakfast in Castleton VT
420’ 1” pex. I installed two Grundfos 26-99s. One in basement and one on the furnace.
The fella said his oil furnace only came on twice when he didn’t get out in the am to load it because he was cooking breakfast for the clients.
That furnace is a work horse.
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nice! thats positive to hear! its keeping up good in the cold temps! seems to actually be performing better the colder it geys. i have only had to load about 8 inches above door frame at most so far.
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I loaded mine up to the smoke flapper tonight cause I just turned the radiant on in the garage.
In water temp at 90. Circ on low Thermostat on 45deg see how it does.
Single digits tonight And tomorrow. So I put the tractor inside. Massey furgeson with a 152 Ci Perkins diesel. It started today outside at 18deg. With no heat or either. I was amazed.
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Nice I pick up my new tractor this weekend and I will definitely be keeping that in the barn with some heat on it
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nice! thats positive to hear! its keeping up good in the cold temps! seems to actually be performing better the colder it geys. i have only had to load about 8 inches above door frame at most so far.
You will see that, it loves cold weather and long wide open burns. Cleaner hotter reburns.
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You will see that, it loves cold weather and long wide open burns. Cleaner hotter reburns.
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thank Eldon! this stove is defonitely kicking ass! very pleased! last night was down to 5° F, tossed in about 6 splits and 6 pieces of green slabwood...lasted me until morning! just about 12hr and had a nice pile to start tje next load with! now it simple!!! lol
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Like the way your sounding now. Know you had a few kinks getting going, but looks like you got her stroking now. I saw that load of slabs, thought if that stove's right it would eat im like candy, at least if they were dry. but sounds like a few mixed in green still works. Let us know how that tractor works out. Got a JD4600 hydro, been good but it's got 1400 hrs on it now and just keep thinking if it ever starts giving trouble.
Ever get that trash can lid insulated? lol
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hahah no insulation on the trash can lid!!! Im excited for the new tractor. got myself and LS XR4145.
The slab load I got is all red oak and all thick meaty stuff for the most part. I have been mixing them in and so far it has been working great! Im going to cut some more up this weekend and go 50/50 slab to split and see how that goes. I got 20+ full cord to use up, so its gonna get em fed whether it likes it or not~!!!! lol
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If you do forced air or especially radiant (think low temp emitter) a 1" line will easily heat it at that distance. I think a G2 will be fine. A few hours shorter burn time maybe.
If you do radiant in the slab and mix down water temps in the new building you literally could use only 1 or 2 gpm to heat it with a 60-90 degree Delta T on the loop from the stove or house to the new building. At a max output (which you probably won't need) of 30 btu's per sq ft (max or you'd have too hot of surface temps) that pencils out to .9 gpm with 160 degree supply temp, return at 80 out of the floor. Would need to be piped P/S in the building. Or separated with a flat plate.
There'll be some heat loss under the slab but still radiant could really cut your flow rate needed. The cool return water won't matter due to the high flow rates in the boiler already.
Ideas, ideas.... You mentioned 1 1/4" piping I think at one point, but not really needed.
Maybe you can get wreckit to drive down in the slow summer months! ;D
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i have only had to load about 8 inches above door frame at most so far.
Yikes, that's overfeeding for me. It's rare I fill mine above the doorframe at all, but my demand is pretty low and until recently it's been relatively warm out.
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Yikes, that's overfeeding for me. It's rare I fill mine above the doorframe at all, but my demand is pretty low and until recently it's been relatively warm out.
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The last couple nights with the windchill that has been negative 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Those nights i have had to bring my triangle of wood about 8 inches above doorframe to gey 14hrs. i lpad on 10hr/14hr cycles due to work amd kids...so my lpad for the night is bigger than the load for the day. i have only been up amd running for a week...so im still mrssing with things and getting used to heatlpad needed.