Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: Jon_E on December 29, 2017, 11:19:56 AM
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OK, got a strange one for me. I'm no electrician, so if this sounds serious, I got a friend I can call.
A couple days ago at the beginning of this cold snap, I got outside to feed the OWB and noticed it had a red light blinking. Probably out of wood, I thought. I pulled the smoke bypass lever and nothing happened - the draft fan usually kicks on. So I opened the firebox door anyway and there was a full load of wood. Water temp was down to 106°. I pushed the cold start button and again, nothing. After a quick read of the manual, and a phone call, and another quick read of the manual ('cus I am stoopid sometimes :P) I found out that there is a 2A fuse that controls the fan motor. Didn't have any 2A fuses but I had a 5A fuse, so I put that in until I could get to the store. The 5A fuse worked fine. I did check the fan for operation, made sure it wasn't stuck or anything, and it spun freely with no resistance.
So here's the strange part. Got back with the 2A fuses, put one in, buttoned it all back up, and ..... nothing. Took it all back apart and the new fuse was blown. I put the 5A fuse back in and everything's fine again, it's working like normal. I checked the fuse I took out to make sure it was 2A and yes it was.
Questions for the forum - first, what could have caused the fuse to blow? I did have the smoke bypass open the night before while I was feeding it, and the firebox was HOT, roaring blaze hot. I think that the flames were nipping at the fan & motor. It allegedly has a overheat shutoff, but I am wondering if I ruined something by letting too much heat get to the fan area and that is causing or contributing to the problem.
Second - why is it working fine with a 5A fuse but it now blows the 2A fuse? Wondering if I had a bad fuse? They're cheap enough I can try a few of them and see if one works, but I had a similar problem on my old Central Boiler and it turned out to be a bad solenoid on the door damper. But it was doing the same thing, blowing fuses. A larger fuse would work but a correct fuse would not.
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If your friend has a clamp meter have em bring it over and check the amps the fan is drawing, it could have overheated just enough to make it pull more but still be operational.
It’s not uncommon on the farm to have a three phase motor that always worked fine start to blow a thermal overload repeatedly, usually I check for loose or bad connections, if I find none then I get the amp meter out and measure each phase. Usually on some of these older motors the shellac is starting to come off the windings somewhere and it’s shorting. I suppose too much heat could effect windings the same way, although I’d check the plug and other connections before replacing the motor.
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I agree with Marty. Get an amp clamp and check the draw at start up and at running. Also I believe the fan fuse is suppose to be a 2.5 slow blow fuse unless they changed it.
I had a blown fuse earlier this year but it was caused by me. I had pulled the fan to inspect it. Upon reinstall I actually had caught the hot wire between the housing and the boiler causing a tiny little tear which grounded and blew the fuse. After ordering a 2.5 slow blow online and reinstalling it I came out one morning to the fan not running. I checked the fuse and it was ok, I reinstalled it and it started up. When I had popped the old fuse out I had spread the fuse holder clamp slightly causing a loose connection to the fuse. I crimped the clamp back down and have been good since.
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Ok I'll get the amp clamp. I don't have one.
The motor fuse is 2A. The control circuit fuse is 2.5A slow-blow.
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Interesting, my 2015 is a 2.5 slow blow on the fan. I wonder why they would want a slow blow on a computer controller?
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I'm pretty sure the fan fuse is a slowblow. Otherwise it would blow as it starts. ?
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:post: exactly my thought eldon
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Whatever came of this? Fluke or motor on its last legs?
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Ok I'll get the amp clamp. I don't have one.
The motor fuse is 2A. The control circuit fuse is 2.5A slow-blow.
Isn't your stove a 2016 model? If so, the fan fuse (fuse 1) should be a 2A slow blow and the control fuse (fuse 2) should be 2.5A fast acting.
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That's how mine is rsi. Slow blow on the motor circuit.
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Got some 2A slow-blow fuses in the mail today (impossible to find locally). I will put one in and see what happens. I think the motor temporarily overheated and blew the fuse, because it's been fine ever since.
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Got some 2A slow-blow fuses in the mail today (impossible to find locally). I will put one in and see what happens. I think the motor temporarily overheated and blew the fuse, because it's been fine ever since.
Yah, used to be any Radio Shack would had those, good luck finding an actual brick and mortar radio shack anymore.