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31

Central Boiler / Re: She's up and running

« on: October 31, 2018, 07:59:04 PM »

Hey Roger, I couldn't stand to let you have all the fun with that new Edge 550 HD of yours, I pulled the trigger on a new 750 HD and installing this weekend. We can compare notes! Looking forward to your updates.

32

Central Boiler / Installing a New CB Edge 750 HD this weekend!

« on: October 31, 2018, 07:53:08 PM »

Been looking at CB's Edge since it came out a few years ago. Really like the added changes to the new HD. 409 stainless, easy access to all the exchangers, FireStar with built in XP wifi and steppers instead of solenoids. My dealer buddy found a buyer for my 2010 Eclassic 2400 and persuaded me to pull the trigger. We will be making the changeout this weekend. Nothing wrong with my 2400 its been flawless and I've have been totally satisfied with it, but my buddy says this one is even better with added features and easier maintenance. Will be fun to compare notes with Roger and his new 550. Time to burn!

33

Central Boiler / Re: E-Classic 2400 with low water temperature

« on: October 22, 2018, 09:01:26 PM »

I have run a 2400 since 2010. I have a temp gauge tee'd in on my return line at the Eclassic with around a 90 ft Thermopex run. When nothing is drawing  heat in my house, the return temp is coming back within 1 degree of the temp my Firestar is reading. When Firestar reads at the 185 degree set point, it returns at 184 verifying the temp on the Firestar which has its probe at the same level as the draw port as being correct. Like I mentioned before the Firestar has a +10/-10 readout degree adjustment in its menu so if the Firestar is measuring a 20 degree difference at the furnace you could get 10 degrees difference back there by adjusting that menu item to -10. I run my setpoint at 190 all the time and find the firebox stays drier than at 185, so right there you could make up 15 degrees in the water going to the house. I suggest you give that a try, nothing to lose. CB makes thousands of furnaces and I'd have to believe they are all made the same way so I would doubt something is restricting flow inside the furnace. I see no purpose in trying to run an extra pump to try to make the water recirculate inside differently than how CB designed it to work, like you said there should be no need to redesign. Another thought, do you have their thermostatic valve installed? If so, maybe it is not correctly opening fully to allow full water flow to your house exchanger.

34

Central Boiler / Re: E-Classic 2400 with low water temperature

« on: October 08, 2018, 08:32:38 PM »

Hello Roger and Farmer Bob! I have not checked this site in a while but happened to take a look tonight. Like Roger said, I've got a 2010 E-classic 2400 and do some furnace work on the side for my dealer buddy so have some experience with them. To confirm, you are pulling your hot water from the supplies that are under the "shelf" using a drop nipple to your pump flange and the pump arrow is pointing away from the furnace correct? Returns are plumbed into the side ports below? This is important because the supply ports pull water from the top of the tank through stand tubes where the hottest water is, while the return tubes drop the water into the bottom of the tank. I don't see any need to circulate water inside the tank with an extra pump. The water will  thermocirculate to the top when it gets hot on it's own which is where the water temp sensor and pick ups are also. I'm not understanding, have you verified that the supply water in the top of the tank is indeed 185? What are you checking furnace water and water inside building temps with? Do you have good water flow? Did you purge your supply/return water lines with your domestic water pressure to be certain you've gotten all the air out which could restrict flow? What product did you use in the ground for water delivery lines?  Worst case scenerio the Firestar has a +10/-10 degree adjustment in its menu if the Firestar is measuring a 20 degree difference at the furnace so you could get 10 degrees back there. You could also raise your setpoint up 5 -7 degrees or so to get hotter water in the house as well for heating purposes.

35

Central Boiler / Re: Shutdown for the summer season

« on: April 30, 2018, 09:48:42 PM »

That's exciting Roger! That new Edge HD has a ton of changes and improvements over our E-Classics! You will love the Wifi reporting and charts to your cell phone which I added unto mine a few years back. I shut my E-2400 down for another season last Saturday as well. Ran perfect all season again. I was still getting 1,200+degree reaction chamber temps last week.  For a 2010 it still looks great after clean-up. Just wish end of season clean-up was as easy as your new Edge HD. My dealer buddy now has some on his lot and they look awesome. . I have the bug to upgrade to an Edge 750HD as well. That rear exchanger cleanout door couldn't be any easier. Says those stepper motors can really fine tune how much air is injected into the primary and secondary for added efficiency. If he gets a buyer for my used 2400, he thinks he can get me into a new Edge 750HD for a good price, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Otherwise I have no problem running the 2400 for another season - now only 5 1/2 months away. This was a long heating season! How are you going to get your water lines from the back up to the front right corner? Or are you going to re-do your slab?

36

Central Boiler / Re: solenoids cant overlook!!!

« on: January 18, 2018, 07:35:14 PM »

Correct the lower solenoids are the secondary's.

37

Central Boiler / Re: solenoids cant overlook!!!

« on: January 17, 2018, 07:49:03 PM »

I agree that it is most likely an air flow blockage issue. There was discussion as to if the solenoids actually have power coming to them and if they open. If the door switch is working "DO" will be displayed on Firestar and you can see the secondary solenoids/covers lifted in the air box even when the air box and farn running when the door is open. Another thing to check is the gap distance between the covers and elbows for the primary and secondary. I've found the secondary's should be set at the specs in the owners manual, while an extra 1/8 to 1/4"added to the gap on the primary seems to work very well.

38

Central Boiler / Re: e classic 1400 has trickle of smoke

« on: January 16, 2018, 07:36:43 PM »

I would also check to be sure the damper covers are dropping and resting flush on the primary and secondary elbows in the air box. I'd also check to me sure the bypass hatch in back of firebox is sealing well when closed. If creosote has built up around opening and it is not shutting tight that would provide air to feed the coals and also an opening for small stream of smoke to draw out the chimney. There is also a rope seal on that bypass opening that could be deteriorated allowing air passage? The owners manual shows it and how to change it out if necessary.

39

Central Boiler / Re: solenoids cant overlook!!!

« on: January 16, 2018, 07:29:35 PM »

Your making this too hard. Simply open the back air box then open the front firebox loading door. You should see both of the secondary solenoids engage and open under power while that front door is open. Those solenoids run off 120V not 24V.  You can also ohm out a solenoid with a multimeter. A good solenoid tests between 15-30 ohms bad 14 or less, usually 1. Also if solenoid goes bad it will dead short and it will blow the 5 amp fuse or trip the 5 amp breaker/power switch. I think if you are getting that much heat and coals back into the airbox it sounds like it can't exhaust freely. A deep coal bed, debree stuck up in the slot under the air charge tube down into the reaction chamber, a deep pile of ash in the reaction chamber, build up in the rear exchangers, ash in the chimney tee, buildup in the chimney tee or maybe a collapsing inner chimney liner or plugged up spark arrestor? Has to be some restriction somewhere which would also reduce your reaction chamber burn temps shown on your chart as it slows the air flow through and out the chimney.

40

Central Boiler / Re: E1450 performance question

« on: January 10, 2018, 09:19:51 PM »

smithbr i have a length of rebar that I poke the firebox airchannel holes open with if necessary a couple of times a week. Pay special attention to the lower holes so any creosote in channels can run back into firebox. I've found that 1-4 inches of coals covering the air charge tube in firebox gets me the highest burn temps. When cleaning reaction chamber I always give the thermocouple a tug to make sure it is fully extended into chamber. Clean rear exchanger tubes as necessary. Primary elbow can be cleaned twice a season or so by some, but I only need to do at the end of the season. I've also raised the primary solenoid so cover gap is an extra 1/4" higher than owners manual specs. Puts more air in firebox and helps push down into reaction chamber better.

41

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Shorter burn times per load question

« on: January 07, 2018, 07:42:48 PM »

Point Blank nailed this one. Extra frigid cold temps or high winds will raise the amount of btu your house or other buildings being heated need. Does not matter it you are burning wood, propane, heating oil or electricity, your furnace will will run more often and burn more energy. Don't waste your time looking for something wrong with your OWF. It's just cold and your house is hungrier.

42

Central Boiler / Re: Wifi Module erratic?

« on: November 17, 2017, 06:22:12 PM »

Yes, sounded like you were right on the fringe of your router service prior to moving it.

43

Central Boiler / Re: CB CL5036 display

« on: November 17, 2017, 06:21:06 PM »

The dot in the temperature is not a problem, it is simply the way it works. You will see it illuminated in the water temperature readout any time the controller is sending power to the solenoid, that opens the damper in the door allowing air into the firebox to create a burn cycle. If your water set point is 185F it will open the damper at 175F and stay open until water temp reaches 185F and will then close until water temp drops to 175F again.

44

Central Boiler / Re: E-Classic 1450 Transformer Question

« on: November 09, 2017, 09:11:41 PM »

Possible grounding issue on the 120 side of the transformer? However I question if transformer is bad, it sends low voltage to bypass alarm and the LED's which you said are working. Firestar runs on 120. I'd give your dealer or CB a call for their thoughts or see if under warranty after 4 years.

45

Central Boiler / Re: Gonna fire her up

« on: November 09, 2017, 09:02:03 PM »

I agree with benp that the XP is an awesome tool. Wow 1,700 degrees, that's a great burn! The highest I've ever seen on my Eclassic 2400 XP chart is 1,470 degrees. I really like all the easy removable air passage channels on your Edge. Can't complain about my 2010 E2400 though, been a great stove, still using original solenoids and pumps. Upgraded my Firestar in 2012 so could put on the XP. So far so good.