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Author Topic: Woodmaster Baffle Rod  (Read 13139 times)

terpjr

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Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« on: January 24, 2014, 07:56:19 PM »

Hi guys,
Went out tonight, opened the chimney baffle on my Woodmaster 4400 and the rood kept pulling.  It appears the that the pin that holds it to the plate is b roke.  I think it is stuck in the closed position as I am getting hammered with smoke when the door is open. 
Has anyone else encountered this problem?  What is the process to fix it?  It is dark and the fire was cookin' so it is not something I was going to tackle tonight but I would like to fix it asap as I come in the house smelling like I have a three pack a day habit.
Thanks!
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Steve Terplak - Upstate NY
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ijon

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2014, 05:31:30 AM »

There is no easy fix that I know of. You have to cool the boiler down and get in and replace the pin. I have a Woodmaster and replaced a pin and slider plate. Unless they have changed the design on the new ones. Mine is older. Good luck.
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terpjr

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2014, 06:24:28 AM »

That stinks, I thought that was going to be the answer.
I was hoping there was an easier way...
What is the best replacement pin to use?
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Steve Terplak - Upstate NY
Woodmaster 4400
Husqvarna 562xp, 460 and 261
Massey Ferguson 165, 265, 1080, 40B backhoe, Landini 105 and JD 450B dozer.
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cantoo

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2014, 06:28:13 AM »

I have a pacific western and assume it's pretty much the same. I replaced mine in the summer just so I wouldn't have to do it in the winter. It isn't hard to do the but the boiler will need to be cleaned out to do it. You're actually better off that it fell off in the closed position at least you won't be wasting heat. I would just put up with a little smoke until better weather to repair it. Make sure the unit is firing when you fill it and the heat will be creating a better draft anyway, flip the switch and fill her up quick.
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terpjr

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2014, 06:32:40 AM »

I would rather wait but icome in the house smelling like a smoke stack and the wife is not a big fan...looks like I am doing it tomorrow
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Steve Terplak - Upstate NY
Woodmaster 4400
Husqvarna 562xp, 460 and 261
Massey Ferguson 165, 265, 1080, 40B backhoe, Landini 105 and JD 450B dozer.
Homemade 3pt hitch splitter.

slimjim

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2014, 07:46:20 AM »

If the wife doesn't like the smell, make her fix it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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terpjr

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2014, 08:43:57 AM »

She is much better looking than I am...so she wins that battle.
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Steve Terplak - Upstate NY
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slimjim

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2014, 10:44:49 AM »

WOW and I thought I was the only one with that problem.
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CountryBoyJohn

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2014, 04:09:39 PM »

I get smoke on me every time I load. I keep a smoke jacket and a stocking hat in the mud room just for loading the stove. And I keep a can of that body spray stuff handy. Wife picks the flavor. I call the wood smoke my winter cologne! It's the smell if free heat!  My wife definitely doesn't complain about the smell of fee heat! But, she grew up with a wood stove in their living room.
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slimjim

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2014, 08:17:38 PM »

Mine loads the stove when I'm on the road with the chip boiler. NO YOU CAN"T HAVE HER!!!!!
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terpjr

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod - Problem solved
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2014, 04:59:04 AM »

Hey guys,
thanks for the suggestions...went out yesterday and got the problem solved...quick too..
In case anyone else with a Woodmaster ever has this problem...here is the steps I took to solve.

1.  Rod has a hole through the end...Woodmaster baffle is a thin plate with a piece of square stock mounted on the top with a hole drilled through it...rod gets pinned to hole...easy enough.

2.  Burned most of wood in furnace through...shoveled ashes out, the put coals aside in wheel barrow.

3.  Put a few pieces of wood in the box to build up some height, lay a piece of plywood down on the wood...now I have a nice surface to lay on.

4.  Looking down from the stack (now that it has cooled a little), line rod up through square stock

5.  Slide damper plate back about 3 inches...do this by hand...In furnace, put nail or bolt through the end of the rod, now I can pull the damper piece back towards the furnace entryway.

6.  Once the damper makes it to the front of the furnace, it can be removed, cleaned up, and re-inserted.

7.  Feed rod in until it meets the damper piece...damper piece will tilt down just enough to align the rod's hole and the hole in the square stock...insert your bolt,,,and push the rod back into place.

Done.

I could not find a decent picture or description of this process...so if anyone else has this happen...i hope it helps.

When I built the fire back up, I had only lost about 15 degrees and that was with the house calling for heat...not too shabby.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2014, 05:00:37 AM by terpjr »
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Steve Terplak - Upstate NY
Woodmaster 4400
Husqvarna 562xp, 460 and 261
Massey Ferguson 165, 265, 1080, 40B backhoe, Landini 105 and JD 450B dozer.
Homemade 3pt hitch splitter.

mlappin

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2014, 09:54:59 PM »

WOW and I thought I was the only one with that problem.

 :thumbup:  :post:
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greendohn

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Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod - Problem solved
« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2016, 07:16:08 PM »

Hey guys,
thanks for the suggestions...went out yesterday and got the problem solved...quick too..
In case anyone else with a Woodmaster ever has this problem...here is the steps I took to solve.

1.  Rod has a hole through the end...Woodmaster baffle is a thin plate with a piece of square stock mounted on the top with a hole drilled through it...rod gets pinned to hole...easy enough.

2.  Burned most of wood in furnace through...shoveled ashes out, the put coals aside in wheel barrow.

3.  Put a few pieces of wood in the box to build up some height, lay a piece of plywood down on the wood...now I have a nice surface to lay on.

4.  Looking down from the stack (now that it has cooled a little), line rod up through square stock

5.  Slide damper plate back about 3 inches...do this by hand...In furnace, put nail or bolt through the end of the rod, now I can pull the damper piece back towards the furnace entryway.

6.  Once the damper makes it to the front of the furnace, it can be removed, cleaned up, and re-inserted.

7.  Feed rod in until it meets the damper piece...damper piece will tilt down just enough to align the rod's hole and the hole in the square stock...insert your bolt,,,and push the rod back into place.

Done.

I could not find a decent picture or description of this process...so if anyone else has this happen...i hope it helps.

When I built the fire back up, I had only lost about 15 degrees and that was with the house calling for heat...not too shabby.


Thanks for the post and description of your fix. Just came in from a 12 1/2 hour shift and the good wife told me the rod slid out of the stove when she went out to feed the hungry beast. Looks like I have a plan for Tuiesday morning(I get to work 2 more long shifts, and the weather will be mid 50's Tuesday)
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