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Messages - intensedrive

Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16]
226
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Modification to Draft Door
« on: December 09, 2014, 09:46:56 PM »
I would set your high temp to 180, with a 7-8 degree difference.  Not uncommon for the stove to take a bit with the natural draft damper to get kick up the fire.  Mine calls for heat at 171, and not uncommon for the water temp to drop 163 before the fire gets roaring again.  I noticed a huge difference in the amount of heat out of the registers with the water temp is 175 - 180 compared to 160's.

227
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Noreaster
« on: December 09, 2014, 09:06:54 PM »
We are suppose to reach 50 here in Michigan Sunday.

228
Fire Wood / Re: Burning Green Wood Sparks?
« on: December 09, 2014, 12:15:45 AM »
It appears green wood is out to get me...

229
Fire Wood / Burning Green Wood Sparks?
« on: December 08, 2014, 11:46:42 PM »
So I had a delivery of green wood the other day, seems seasoned wood is hard to find right now.  Loaded the stove with green wood came home 10 hours later opened the boiler door and the coals were sparking shooting at me.. Burned a hole in my coat and pants.  Scared the crap of of me.. What is causing the sparks?



230
How much wood do you burn in season?

I'm thinking around Jan 1st which will give me about three months. Then one more time before May shutdown.

231
Hi,

I have a few posts under my belt but rather new, second year running a outdoor boiler.  I believe from reading previous posts that I might removing the ash too frequently.  I usually take 5-6 shovels full every 4 days.  When I shovel the ash I tend to shake the shovel a bit to allow the larger coals to drop off, and try to get the finer ash into my metal barrel.  No matter how hard I try it seems the ash is extremely hot and causes the 55 gallon drum to heat up extremely fast.  Today I realized after all this time that I'm shoveling out ash that would be heating my house.  I tend to get very anal with the ash removal now rethinking that I should let the ash stay in the box longer.  My fear was the ash acts a insulator not allowing the heat transfer to the water.  Every morning I rake ash and the pile to the front and load the wood on top and to the back.  Is there a trick to get just the ash and not the hot ash with hot embers?

Thanks


232
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Best Stories of 2014
« on: December 02, 2014, 09:19:20 PM »
Sounds like it could have been a lot worse.. Open system?  No water loss?

233
Fire Wood / The Dreaded task of buying wood from Craigslist
« on: November 28, 2014, 11:39:23 PM »
Hi,

So I have purchased wood from craigslist in the past.  You have guys telling you that they can fit full cord in their S10 pickup.  The most recent guy said he had full extended cab and a 6' trailer and he could haul me 4 full cord in one load.  I have made it clear in our chat I'm talking full cord.  Either they are idiots, or scamming people.  Last year from reputable guy I had 1.5 cords delivered in 16 foot trailer and the back of his pickup was loaded.  Any suggestions to cut through the bullcrap when in contact with these guys. 

234
Hi,

Wood Boiler back side faces the west which mostly the wind comes from.  I'm very interested on the topic of properly loading the boiler.  I don't split any of my wood mostly are smaller rounds, I just throw them into the burn box when it looks pretty much full.  I must admit some of my rounds are pretty large, looking to purchase a maul to chop them smaller.  I was always told larger rounds will burn longer, but can make it tough to fit more wood.  Have same issue, colder nights with very little wind always surprises me how much wood is still burning and the house is warm.  My only option is to put something in front of the natural draft damper during windy nights to cut the extra air flow..

235
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Wood Boiler Wood Usage in High Winds
« on: November 21, 2014, 11:59:50 PM »
Hi,

Second year running a outdoor boiler.  I have noticed in certain high wind conditions my burn times drop in half.  I have a old farm house with poor insulation, my first conclusion was its because of the wind penetration and the furnace blower having to work overtime to keep the home warm.  Studying the situation more it seems to be a combination of both, but more towards the wind blowing into the damper causing the wood to burn faster.  I would like some more insight of high winds and burn time.

Thanks,
Scott

236
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: draft door stuck open
« on: November 10, 2014, 10:02:36 PM »
Update,

15 minutes after posting this.. I hear a loud open from inside, run outside.. Remember from my last post I forced the door shut, but realized when I got outside I couldn't do this when the solenoid seemed to be working. and now have the normal buzz from the solenoid.  Possible short? or faulty solenoid?  The open seems much louder than normally.  I flicked the on/off switch a half dozen times and it seem to close and open.  Lubed with PB Blaster calling Ridgewood tomorrow.  I'm guessing a short with the wiring or the solenoid is going bad. 



237
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: draft door stuck open
« on: November 10, 2014, 09:33:50 PM »
Hi,

Already have one boil over, came home tonight and think I got it about ready to cause issues again.  The damper door was open and operating temp was 185.  On new installs they put a outlet with a switch so you can turn everything off at the stove, along with unplugging the pump.  So here is the situation....  I kicked the switch off in the back.. Did not turn off the pump, buy did turn off the aquastat, draft door stayed open.  I hear no noise from the solenoid, like its dead.  In fear of another boil over I just pushed the damper closed..  It is a brand new stove delivered a week ago.

238
Thanks for the help.. Brand new unit.  Door seems to be sealing properly.  Checked the unit over yesterday everything seems fine.  I did not loose power, even if I lost power the damper will close without electricity.  I always try to keep logs and stick a good distance from the natural draft damper.  Double checked the mechanism and spring, and everything seems in proper order.  I'm guessing the damper door stuck open.. Was obvious as the water treatment I added 24 hours before boil over tarnished the roof metal all over, all signs of a vigorous boil over...  When you walk outside in the morning and see this your heart just sinks.

239
Had my first boil over, not sure why,  at this point everything seems to be operating correctly today.  Boil Over happened overnight,  I probably lost 25 -35 gallons of water.  Water jacket holds 155 Gallons.  Should I be concerned if this is my first boil over?  What should I check?

Thanks

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