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31
Hardy / Re: 4 Questions about Hardy OWB: float switch, blower prevnt maint.
« on: October 07, 2013, 10:55:05 AM »
I moved into a home a couple years back where the hardy stove had sat thru the winter unused while the house was empty : /. I did some pretty exhaustive maintenance to bring it back including: new blower, new float switch, new pump, new domestic water coil, new vacuum relief valve, new filler pipe, and new T&P Valve. I also cleaned about 12" of crap and creosote from the bottom of the firebox and about 2-3" or creosote from all the side and door.
As far as parts go i got the blower and FLOAT SWITCH from GRAINGER. Here is the link for the float switch:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2A554&op=search&Ntt=2A554&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset
As for the blower i know you can find them online with the damper door attached, but it'll cost ya like an extra $50. i bought a brand new one of grainger for like $65 and then ripped the damper door off my old one and took it to my dad's shop and had him weld it on for me (just be careful to take time on the weld so you don't lock up the blower with heat). As far as maintenance, there is sometimes oil ports on the blowers where you can oil them, but i just simply clean any crap out of it in the summer and at $65 a pop i don't really bother with anything else.
And yeah as BIG said i use a putty knife to get the door clean and i also have no problem with build-up by the blower. The blower pushes it all away when it kicks on. I just make sure to clean it out every couple weeks when it gets full : ).
Here is a Hardy parts list. Useful for finding part numbers in case you can't read it off the part itself:
http://www.archerac.com/images/Internet_Parts_Print_Copy.pdf
As far as parts go i got the blower and FLOAT SWITCH from GRAINGER. Here is the link for the float switch:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2A554&op=search&Ntt=2A554&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset
As for the blower i know you can find them online with the damper door attached, but it'll cost ya like an extra $50. i bought a brand new one of grainger for like $65 and then ripped the damper door off my old one and took it to my dad's shop and had him weld it on for me (just be careful to take time on the weld so you don't lock up the blower with heat). As far as maintenance, there is sometimes oil ports on the blowers where you can oil them, but i just simply clean any crap out of it in the summer and at $65 a pop i don't really bother with anything else.
And yeah as BIG said i use a putty knife to get the door clean and i also have no problem with build-up by the blower. The blower pushes it all away when it kicks on. I just make sure to clean it out every couple weeks when it gets full : ).
Here is a Hardy parts list. Useful for finding part numbers in case you can't read it off the part itself:
http://www.archerac.com/images/Internet_Parts_Print_Copy.pdf
32
Hardy / Re: dampner in chimney
« on: September 30, 2013, 05:57:52 AM »Quote
QuoteAs if the Hardy isn't inefficient enough, good grief. I would refuse to do a job if the home owner didn't use insulated pipe.
Me too...... It's crazy
Guess they are a good choice for people who reeealllly love cutting wood ; )
33
Hardy / Re: dampner in chimney
« on: September 27, 2013, 10:31:23 AM »
I have a hardy as well and my lines are uninsulated Polybutelene : /. I did not install it, it was installed in the 80s when Polybutelene was all the rage. Luckily my boiler is only about 10 feet from my house.
Anyways theronbot, there are previous posts on this forum about the same type of thing. Some guy in Ohio makes what he calls Hardy Efficiency plates. same idea, basically restrict the exhaust flow to cause more contact with the water jacket.
He has a different plate insert for the H4s and a corkscrew type insert for the chimneys on the H2:
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2418
I do plan to get the corkscrew one and try it out one of these days, but i don't use that much wood already so it hasn't really been a priority haha.
Anyways theronbot, there are previous posts on this forum about the same type of thing. Some guy in Ohio makes what he calls Hardy Efficiency plates. same idea, basically restrict the exhaust flow to cause more contact with the water jacket.
He has a different plate insert for the H4s and a corkscrew type insert for the chimneys on the H2:
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2418
I do plan to get the corkscrew one and try it out one of these days, but i don't use that much wood already so it hasn't really been a priority haha.
34
Fire Wood / Re: Block Wood or Slab Wood
« on: September 02, 2013, 09:57:01 AM »Quote
Here in my area hardwood slabs are free and the blocks are $80 for a 16 foot trailer with all you can pile on, which is a LOT
There are alot of sawmills near my place and i know i can usually got pick up slab wood for free at several of them, but they are not cut and it is a pain to get them into my pickup and somewhat of a pain to cut. i figured if this works out well maybe i'll get a trailer and use my time to get the free slab wood instead of cutting trees.
Is the amount of heat i will get from burning a cord of slab equivalent to what i would get burning a cord of cut wood?
35
Fire Wood / Re: Block Wood or Slab Wood
« on: August 30, 2013, 02:58:22 PM »
Awesome! Thanks for the input, i think i'll order a load in the next few months here and give it a try.
36
Fire Wood / Block Wood or Slab Wood
« on: August 30, 2013, 11:01:54 AM »
Alright so i do cut most of the wood i burn between my land, family land, and a permit to cut dead trees in Oil Creek State Park. But there is place real close to where i live that delivers slab and block wood, was thinking about getting a load and trying it out:
Hardwood blocks . 4x4 , 4x6 , and 6x6 mixed sizes and lengths upto 20". Tri-axle load $550 delivered
Heavy all premium hardwood slabs cut 16-20" long. No edgings,nice pieces.Huge tri-axle load $440 delivered.
Loads average 5-6 cord. (4'x4'x8')
Anyone have opinions on these? the blocks are more so im assuming they are better burning? thoughts? If this works out well i might be able to save close to the same in gas for my truck to haul haha.
Here is craigslist if you wanna see image:
http://erie.craigslist.org/for/3949754701.html
Hardwood blocks . 4x4 , 4x6 , and 6x6 mixed sizes and lengths upto 20". Tri-axle load $550 delivered
Heavy all premium hardwood slabs cut 16-20" long. No edgings,nice pieces.Huge tri-axle load $440 delivered.
Loads average 5-6 cord. (4'x4'x8')
Anyone have opinions on these? the blocks are more so im assuming they are better burning? thoughts? If this works out well i might be able to save close to the same in gas for my truck to haul haha.
Here is craigslist if you wanna see image:
http://erie.craigslist.org/for/3949754701.html
37
General Discussion / Re: 20 year old furnace
« on: June 25, 2013, 10:34:41 AM »
I have definitely heard of combination units before, but i don't have enough knowledge to provide any information. What is the reasoning for the propane backup? If it is simply in case you go away for a week or more during the winter and you don't want the water to freeze there are other solutions such as using antifreeze, or using electric heaters to keep the water above freezing, load it up turn it down and have a buddy feed it every few days, etc.
If you are thinking you want the propane in case you decide you don't want to cut wood one year I would buy a separate propane unit. That way you can purchase the most cost effective propane unit for you home and not be locked into what you can find in a combination unit. Then if one winter you don't want to use the boiler just empty it out and go with propane. You can even have them both active and simply set the propane thermostat lower than the wood boilers so that it will only kick on when necessary, although as long as your wood unit is sized appropriately for you home you should never need to use the propane as long as your fire is going : ).
Others on this site may be able to provide you with some more technical information on combo units and such. Good Luck : )
If you are thinking you want the propane in case you decide you don't want to cut wood one year I would buy a separate propane unit. That way you can purchase the most cost effective propane unit for you home and not be locked into what you can find in a combination unit. Then if one winter you don't want to use the boiler just empty it out and go with propane. You can even have them both active and simply set the propane thermostat lower than the wood boilers so that it will only kick on when necessary, although as long as your wood unit is sized appropriately for you home you should never need to use the propane as long as your fire is going : ).
Others on this site may be able to provide you with some more technical information on combo units and such. Good Luck : )
38
General Discussion / Re: 20 year old furnace
« on: June 24, 2013, 11:04:59 AM »
I purchased a home in 2010 with a Hardy boiler that was a little over 20 years old. The former resident had died in a car crash and the home sat all winter meaning stuff froze. I had to replace pump, blower, domestic water coil, T&P Valve, Vacuum Valve and a small copper feed segment. I also had to clean years of creosote build up out of the firebox. It has been working great ever since.
When i purchased the home the boiler was the only form of heat so i know it got some serious use (unless the former resident was a polar bear). I added electric baseboards as a backup but never use them. I have only had one issue since the initial fixes and that was with a polybutylene fitting inside my house rupturing.
As long as the thing isn't leaking i wouldn't see much reason to worry. Pretty much all the individual parts on those things are replaceable and yeah if you upgrade you can simply put in the new system and connect up the water lines, just make sure to get a pump sufficient enough for you needs.
When i purchased the home the boiler was the only form of heat so i know it got some serious use (unless the former resident was a polar bear). I added electric baseboards as a backup but never use them. I have only had one issue since the initial fixes and that was with a polybutylene fitting inside my house rupturing.
As long as the thing isn't leaking i wouldn't see much reason to worry. Pretty much all the individual parts on those things are replaceable and yeah if you upgrade you can simply put in the new system and connect up the water lines, just make sure to get a pump sufficient enough for you needs.
39
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Fruit Gift Baskets
« on: June 07, 2013, 10:45:28 AM »
Hmmmm i must have missed the booze and porn in the fruit group of the food pyramid when we learned about it in elementary school. Looks like i'll be eating alot more "fruit"... ; )
40
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Fruit Gift Baskets
« on: June 04, 2013, 10:30:28 AM »
Maybe the basket is wicker. That would burn nicely although i don't believe many BTUs would result : ).
41
Fire Wood / Re: looking for places to cut free firewood near lebanon,pa area
« on: May 03, 2013, 12:29:55 PM »
Thanks for the tip Mike! I have 10 acres of trees, on my property but don't always want to cut all my own trees down and my family has lots of land but i am about 1.5hrs from where my family is. Since i live in PA as well i thought i might as well post back for HappyCamper. Here is the response i got from the PA forestry service:
Oil Creek state park i pass every day on my too and from work, i might have to cut a couple cords from there : ).
Here is the link to email them HappyCamper:
http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/directory/districtoffice/index.htm
-Jarrod
Quote
Hello Jarrod,(I live in the cornplanter forestry district)
Yes, we do have Fuelwood cutting permits available. We have permits to cut in Oil Creek State Park and in the Cornplanter State Forest. The permits are $15.00/cord. If you would like one the procedure is:
Mail a check or money order for the number of cords you are going to cut along with your name, address, phone number, the license plate number on the truck you’ll be using and the area you would like to cut and I will mail one out to you. Or you could bring a check or money order into the office in Warren and I will give you a permit there. If you have any questions do not hesitate to call me at the phone number listed below.
Oil Creek state park i pass every day on my too and from work, i might have to cut a couple cords from there : ).
Here is the link to email them HappyCamper:
http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/directory/districtoffice/index.htm
-Jarrod
42
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Smoke
« on: April 24, 2013, 10:29:30 AM »
Hahahahaha that was my suggestion. No smoke smell on your clothes if you don't have any on : ). I usually wear at least boxers, but mine is only 10 feet out my back door and there is a shelter next too it with all my wood under it. Looks like you have quite the trek through the snow to fill yours up : ).
43
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Smoke
« on: April 05, 2013, 10:28:57 AM »
You could load it up while naked, then your clothes and coat wouldn't stink....
Usually opening the bottom door works for me to push the smoke out the stack. If its coming out the stack and falling back down then you could install a higher stack.
Usually opening the bottom door works for me to push the smoke out the stack. If its coming out the stack and falling back down then you could install a higher stack.
44
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Govt control of owb quickly approaching, another attack on our freedoms
« on: April 04, 2013, 10:33:12 AM »Quote
How, exactly, are we to preserve fossil fuels and use renewable sources of energy by not being allowed to burn wood and forced to burn oil or propane or gas? Am I missing something here? I always thought wood was renewable. I can't even get gas, and can't afford oil or propane. It must be nice to know how everyone lives and that money just shows up in your checkbook when you are making decisions from the 50th floor of your city office building and your butler is bringing you your afternoon martini. Guess us little people from rural Portland, MI are just too stupid to think for ourselves. God forbid we work for a living.
Amen!
My cousin was working for the EPA as an environmental engineer for about the past year out of Pittsburgh, but she just quit. Said she couldn't stand the hypocrisy of it anymore. She tested water and if a test failed the EPA would fine the company 75K+, but the problem is the ones getting the fines are these little businesses, the ones that often can't afford to comply with the ultra-stringent regulations of the EPA. Meaning you are shutting down mom and pop and leaving the big businesses. What a messed up system : /
45
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Pex leak
« on: February 11, 2013, 03:30:54 PM »Quote
Those fittings you have are the absolute worst fittings I have ever worked with. The heat causes them to loosen up and leak.
Agreed, I had them all over my house along with a bunch of polybutylene piping. I have been replacing all of it with PVC, almost there just a few more left in the OWB heating lines and a couple lines running to the kitchen. They literally just explode and crack when they get to hot, it is horrible to wake up at 5AM to a flooded bathroom : / thank god it was first story on a slab. Until i get them all replaced though i have a stockpile on hand for quick replacement.