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Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: December 17, 2008, 09:04:17 PM »
Thanks Yoda for the imput. I have hot water heat and my circulation pump on the house side runs 24/7 and the pump outside does too. I read some other posts on this site and see a link to some boiler cleaner and treatments. I think i need to clean and treat my system as I never did since hook up last jan when I got the unit. I didnt seem to have any issues last season and Im thinking the buildup on the boiler is insulating the water from the fire and causing the decreased temp. I also thought I might line the inside fire box nest season with fire brick and put in some plates to deflect the fire to delay the exit out the flue. Its frustrating knowing Jan is just around the corner and still having a cold house.
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Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: December 16, 2008, 07:32:09 PM »
Ive burned wood on and off for 30 yrs and got tired of loading an indoor stove every couple hrs so I broke down and bought a shaver. Ordered it nov 07 and received jan 19th.
I liked the fact it is thick heavy duty steel. Ive read up and thought I did my research but missed the forums that talked about all the problems with the shaver stove. I figured theres a learning curve no matter what because every house is different. I have a two story with walk up attic . With the basement I probably have 3000 sq ft. I have a 40 yr plus boiler in the house and Im also heating a garage with a water to air hanging heater and two salvaged cast iron radiators. The past two days were 0 to -7 and the house was stuck at 62 segrees. I didnt hook in a softner system this summer so I probably have some mineral deposits on the boiler water jacket . I talked to a water treatment service tech and he said a 10 to 20 % hydrochloric solution should take care of the deposits by circulating through the system till the ph tests about 7. I already
removed my 40 plate heat exchanger and soaked it in a 25 percent solution of muratic acid this past weekend. I sealed the rear access door ( didnt think it mattered LOL ) down as the stove was steaming constantly and I was adding water every couple days. The water treatment tech said the more water that evaporates the more deposits are left on the fire box which insulates the boiler. Think I will invest in a larger heat exchanger. Ive seen them up to 150 plates. Maybe a 100 plate would transfer more usable btu's. I checked the boiler water temp and the hottest yesterday operated at 125 degrees. The temp on my inside boiler was 120 degrees. Id like to get it to 185 degrees. Any suggestions as Ive got 7500 bucks invested so far and would like to think I can make this system work Some of the other posts on the stove make alot of sense so help me out guys. I also thought a dampner installed in the flue would help with the rate of wood consumption and keep the heat in longer.
I liked the fact it is thick heavy duty steel. Ive read up and thought I did my research but missed the forums that talked about all the problems with the shaver stove. I figured theres a learning curve no matter what because every house is different. I have a two story with walk up attic . With the basement I probably have 3000 sq ft. I have a 40 yr plus boiler in the house and Im also heating a garage with a water to air hanging heater and two salvaged cast iron radiators. The past two days were 0 to -7 and the house was stuck at 62 segrees. I didnt hook in a softner system this summer so I probably have some mineral deposits on the boiler water jacket . I talked to a water treatment service tech and he said a 10 to 20 % hydrochloric solution should take care of the deposits by circulating through the system till the ph tests about 7. I already
removed my 40 plate heat exchanger and soaked it in a 25 percent solution of muratic acid this past weekend. I sealed the rear access door ( didnt think it mattered LOL ) down as the stove was steaming constantly and I was adding water every couple days. The water treatment tech said the more water that evaporates the more deposits are left on the fire box which insulates the boiler. Think I will invest in a larger heat exchanger. Ive seen them up to 150 plates. Maybe a 100 plate would transfer more usable btu's. I checked the boiler water temp and the hottest yesterday operated at 125 degrees. The temp on my inside boiler was 120 degrees. Id like to get it to 185 degrees. Any suggestions as Ive got 7500 bucks invested so far and would like to think I can make this system work Some of the other posts on the stove make alot of sense so help me out guys. I also thought a dampner installed in the flue would help with the rate of wood consumption and keep the heat in longer.
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