Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - greasemonkoid

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 8
16
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Dragon splatter
« on: February 01, 2019, 01:12:50 PM »
Those trees, they are going to hyperventilate with all that C02. From their cousins...



Curious, what are your reload intervals? Or do you have an autofeeder I'm not seeing?

17
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: solar element in waterjacket
« on: January 31, 2019, 09:27:36 PM »
Interesting, not trying to be critical about the idea, but isn't that like traveling around the county to get down the block?

I've got some panels to put up, just need to get a sufficient battery bank together to power the pumps.

18
General Discussion / Re: Another reason to burn wood
« on: January 31, 2019, 05:06:21 AM »
Seeing the number of people who will plug in a space heater to an 18 awg extension cord and crank it wide open, I understand the penalty from insurance companies, not that I agree with it by any means, but there are many out there who just don't get it, and never will. Wood burning does require a higher level of responsibility than some can handle.



Thanks for the reminder. They're still making trees these days, and probably will as long as I live.

19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: creosote
« on: January 30, 2019, 05:02:48 PM »
Last night 12 am, mine quit making heat, went out to troubleshoot and heard the sound of stalled air over the blower. Chimney cap was almost completely blocked. I wound up having to crawl inside the thing to clean the lower portion of the stack. Nice and warm in there, like a lobster in a pot.

20
Electronics / Re: Bp 200K HANGING HEATER
« on: January 27, 2019, 08:35:21 PM »
If it's anything like the noname china factory/child labor built unit that I have with the ridiculous anchor of a fan, then go to lowes and buy a metal 20" fan and take the front grill off. Mount the rear half in place of the original turd. It is a near perfect fit, just use washers on the existing bolts. To be exact, it is the commercial electric brand from H depot that I know fits. It's quieter, lighter, uses less power, and probably the same cfm.

21
Ahh yes, the startup costs, from scratch.  Little did I realize my forecasted $8000 venture would turn into $20k. Granted, my particular setup isn't exactly bare bones, but the break even point appears to be about 16 years from now, and that's if I never buy wood.

So, my personal rule to myself is that I will not buy wood, period.

In the meantime since it is a done deal I will enjoy hot water to the fullest, even if it means making giant steam clouds with the pressure washer in the dead of winter.

And for what it's worth, wood will be around if the trucks stop running.

22
It's going take a mean pump. A checkvalve is pointless in my opinion.

At 176 degrees water boils at about 7psia which is about a 17' reverse water column. Adjust for the additional pressure created when the fluid is moving and you will be a little higher. Fortunately the column gets higher with velocity or restrictive pressure.

I'm not worth a crap at math, but my belief is that your success will lie in cramming as many gpm through that pipe as possible to get the head pressure up, or put a simple valve after the heat HX (and all of the HX's placed on the uphill side as expected).

Put a clear line in the house right after the valve so the residents can watch the water fall.

I would definitely put a valve after the last HX in case you need to create some more loop pressure on the top side, or use the valve at the return at the boiler, but someone would probably open it and wonder why they don't have heat.

Here are some handy resources:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hydrostatic-pressure-water-d_1632.html

http://www.jbind.com/pdf/Cross-Reference-of-Boiling-Temps.pdf

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-evacuation-pressure-temperature-d_1686.html


23
Definitely not for those who live the sedentary lifestyle. Sometimes I feel the same way, but taking a 1 hour shower at 160 degrees changes that.

24
Electronics / Upgraded my control console
« on: January 23, 2019, 11:32:01 PM »
Because I'm a sucker for automation...










And felt the need for some apgrades, but the old box was full, and it appears this one is nearly undersized. At least - or hopefully - it looks more professional than a series of additions resulting from from afterthoughts.

25
The Wall Of Shame / Re: Smashed my thumb (warning graphic image)
« on: January 22, 2019, 05:47:14 AM »
Sometimes strange cutting angles happen in the field, that definitely looks like an awkward, uncomfortable, and unsafe position. I'm guilty of it myself. Thanks for the pic, it's easier to learn from others' mistakes.

26
The Wall Of Shame / Re: Smashed my thumb (warning graphic image)
« on: January 14, 2019, 04:02:35 AM »
Kind of hard to stitch up/ tape up when there's nothing there. Hopefully it didn't take tendons out. Got a picture of the boot?

27
The Wall Of Shame / Re: Smashed my thumb (warning graphic image)
« on: January 10, 2019, 10:29:04 PM »
I did one real similar to that about 10 years ago, swinging a large hammer with all my might and holding a punch with the other hand up side down, something slipped, got out of calibration, and dead on the thumb.

Then comes the vagal response. The sight of blood and injuries don't bother me, but after an injury my scalp and tongue go numb, blood pressure drops, begin to sweat, and get nauseated. So I have to prop my feet up to prevent passing out. That is worse than the injury itself.

Been real fortunate over the years, as much as I've been involved in. Don't take safety for granted. And chainsaw injuries I hear about, ikes, wear chaps guys. I'd rather get shot than get a chainsaw in the leg.

28
HeatMaster / Re: Adding a second exchanger...
« on: January 07, 2019, 04:39:45 AM »
I don't know how to articulate the idea any better. Our closed loop systems are still exposed to atmosphere on both ends, so basically you've got a siphon tube, albeit a modified one, being the presence of a pump creating pressure and velocity of the fluid. We agree that if the pump were to stop, and velocity were to stop, and the loop being high enough, your max siphon height will see a limit.

Now, let's make our hypothetical loop 100' vertical initially filled with water, install an absolute pressure gauge (properly) at the peak of the loop, at the beginning of the upboud side (after the pump), and ending of the down bound side, slowly ramp up pump rpm. What do they read as impeller rpm transitions from 0 rpm to 2000 rpm? What is in the crest of the loop (water or water vapor) and at what rpm?

Sheer forces within the boundary layer (restriction) are on our side this time.

29
HeatMaster / Re: Adding a second exchanger...
« on: January 06, 2019, 08:42:00 AM »
Mainly when the "if's" align, but in reality they probably never will unless you go significantly higher, but that's theory. It would be a neat experiment to try though. The absolute pressure at the crown of the loop is the concern, it doesn't have to be after the heat exchanger. That's several psi pulling down lowering the absolute pressure, certainly wouldn't want a pump up there. The variables are nothing out of the norm - velocity, areas of high turbulent flow, temperature, altitude, ect.

30
HeatMaster / Re: Adding a second exchanger...
« on: January 05, 2019, 11:21:25 PM »
Doubt my math is right, but that looks to be approaching the point of needing a restriction on the return side to prevent boiling in the pipe on the way down, but aside from making noise what harm would boiling water on that side do anyway?

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 8