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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / States not enforcing the federal EPA OWB rules???
« on: November 25, 2016, 01:03:04 PM »
I was recently talking with a factory that is actively selling non EPA certified wood boilers. He initially said the law hasn't gone into effect yet. Then I said I thought it went into effect Jan 1, 2016 to which he responded that it hasn't in our state (WI). He continued to say that WI, Michignan, Illinois and a few others weren't enforcing the EPA law. It seems kind of fishy to me so I thought I would try to seek the truth from some of you informed members. Are there some states where they are able to sell non EPA boilers?
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / How deep did you bury your water lines?
« on: November 01, 2016, 03:10:04 PM »
Just wondering how deep everyone buried their lines. I understand if you are going under a driveway or going to be driving over it, it is necessary to go deep. Any other reason to bury them more than a foot or so down?
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HeatMaster / Re: 2015 Heatmaster MF 10000e
« on: October 25, 2016, 07:12:52 PM »
I'm looking at a g200 or a froling. I need the auction fan for inside. I like the efficiency of the froling but don't really want the have the extra thermal storage tanks.
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HeatMaster / 2015 Heatmaster MF 10000e
« on: October 25, 2016, 01:55:32 PM »
I will likely be selling a brand new, never installed 2015 heatmaster MF10000e. I bought this with intentions of hooking it up at my new house but have since decided to put one inside the detached garage and pipe a line to the house. Just wondering what you guys think it is worth and if I have to be careful of anything selling a non epa stove??
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Portage & Main / Re: Noisey blower
« on: April 22, 2015, 03:34:26 PM »
Thanks for the advice Slim, I will talk to Rory.
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Portage & Main / Re: Noisey blower
« on: April 21, 2015, 08:23:32 PM »
I shut my boiler down two weeks ago because the blower motor was going. It will run for about 3 minutes then get real hot and shutoff. When it cools down it will come back on until it gets hot again. There must be some sort of thermal break in there.
Slim do you have any motors left?
I am trying to get the fan off the shaft of the motor. I took the set screw out and it has been soaking in Aerokroil for three days and still won't come off. Any good way to get this off?
Slim do you have any motors left?
I am trying to get the fan off the shaft of the motor. I took the set screw out and it has been soaking in Aerokroil for three days and still won't come off. Any good way to get this off?
8
HeatMaster / Re: G200 or 400 reviews
« on: April 02, 2015, 10:33:11 AM »
With the induced draft fan and little smoke from the loading door would the G200 be a good boiler to put in a shop? Is there anything else about the boiler that would make you discourage running it in a shop?
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: anybody sugaring yet
« on: April 02, 2015, 09:01:59 AM »Ok this is a new one to me, but my boss at work said that he taps his black walnuts, and makes syrup.One of my buddies also taps black walnut trees. The syrup is still plenty sweet and has a little nutty flavor.
Does this sound right?? ...or is he justblowing smokemistaken about what type of tree he has
He boils it with an old barrel stove he made up where he cut out the top and sets trays in. He is looking at better ways of doing it since he burned through the same amount of wood as he does in a month to heat the house just to make 2 gallons of syrup. Anybody have ideas or pictures of what they use?
10
I would say you aren't being too picky. I am not sure why the guy would want to cut every 16" instead of every 24". He could have saved himself quite a few cuts in 8 cords. The wood I cut for myself to burn I cut 20-24" the wood I sell I cut 16-18". When I am cutting it at 16" I notice there are more times I come up to the end of a log and I have 8-12". When cutting them longer I only have to pay attention when I get to the last three pieces and I can usually make it come out.
11
Fire Wood / Re: Savings
« on: March 27, 2015, 09:17:21 AM »
JT You have more experience, as your in the biz
But the more heat and the quick burn would cancel each other out in my limited imagination
kk
The way I look at it is if you have two cords of wood let just say oak, one seasoned and one green. A cord of oak gives off 36.6 million BTUs. A green cord of oak weighs 7830lbs, a dry cord of oak weighs 4840 lbs. The main difference in weight between green and dry wood is due to the larger amount of moisture in the wood. Therefore a green cord of oak has approximately 3030 more pounds of moisture in it. So the green cord of oak gives off 36.6 million BTUs but before those BTUs can be used for heat a good amount of them need to be used to evaporate 3030 lbs of moisture. Most of us keep our wood stored outside or in an unheated building. It requires a lot of BTUs to bring that extra 3030lbs from outside ambient temperature up to 212°F then convert it to steam.
Green wood will burn longer but much cooler. Depending on the atmospheric pressure water cannot rise above 210-212°F. The reason it is burning longer is because it is boiling off that water before it can rise up to the temperature at which the wood can burn. In my eyes the best is to not use the energy from the wood to boil water in the fire and instead let the solar and wind energy evaporate the moisture while it is seasoning.
I also agree with mlappin with the hotter burning fire there will be higher stack temps. If you have a boiler that can transfer that extra heat to the water before going out the stack the cycle times your fan is running becomes much shorter. Which means longer idle times and longer times between loading.
I think everyone can agree burning a tree that was just cut down is less efficient than one that has been seasoned. Since this thread is focused on comparing slightly seasoned to very seasoned wood, everywhere green wood is mentioned you can change it to slightly seasoned wood and the differences become less dramatic. I realize there are hundreds of other variables and factors that play a role in how long each of us season our wood. Everyone has their own experiences with their own boiler and what works best for them. At the end of the day it is all about peace of mind, it feels good going to bed in a warm house knowing your boiler will keep you warm whether you have it loaded full of green or seasoned wood.
Note: All numbers used in this post are from an average of a few charts I have used which were found on various websites which I consider reputable.
12
Fire Wood / Re: Savings
« on: March 25, 2015, 11:45:34 AM »
I always go by the rule split wood will season 2-3 inches from the outside in a year. which means a 4-6 inch diameter piece will be seasoned in one year. Oak and harder woods probably closer to the 4 inch range. All the wood I sell I let season for just over a year. Most of the people I sell to burn it in their fireplaces and I have had nothing but great responses.
I agree that you can "over season wood". As far as dry seasoned wood burning up faster, I believe it will burn up faster but you also get more heat out of it. The moisture in the wood will not burn, and it requires energy to be turned to steam before it will leave. That energy is coming from your wood. For anyone who has been around someone making maple syrup you realize how much heat it takes to get all that moisture out of the sap.
I agree that you can "over season wood". As far as dry seasoned wood burning up faster, I believe it will burn up faster but you also get more heat out of it. The moisture in the wood will not burn, and it requires energy to be turned to steam before it will leave. That energy is coming from your wood. For anyone who has been around someone making maple syrup you realize how much heat it takes to get all that moisture out of the sap.
13
Fire Wood / Re: How much is lost when stacking a pile?
« on: March 25, 2015, 11:23:22 AM »
I figured out a stacked pile is about 65% of what a heaped pile is. My 20' trailer with 2' sides can hold 2.3 cords if it is stacked and even with the top of the sides. When I throw it in I only get 1.5 cords and that comes up a little higher than the sides in the middle.
One of the guys at work bought 3.5 cords and he took a picture of the truck they delivered it on. It was a 20' flatbed with 3.5' sides looked like it was loaded with a hay conveyor (not stacked). I told him he got ripped off if he paid for 3.5 cords. I explained it to him and told him to call the guys he bought it from and let them know that they shorted him. I hate seeing guys rip people off on firewood but that's a whole different topic.
One of the guys at work bought 3.5 cords and he took a picture of the truck they delivered it on. It was a 20' flatbed with 3.5' sides looked like it was loaded with a hay conveyor (not stacked). I told him he got ripped off if he paid for 3.5 cords. I explained it to him and told him to call the guys he bought it from and let them know that they shorted him. I hate seeing guys rip people off on firewood but that's a whole different topic.
15
Portage & Main / Re: Lost Coal Bed
« on: March 09, 2015, 10:06:49 AM »
I have had that happen when there wasn't much load on it and it was loaded it with all large (8-10") diameter peices. Now I make sure I always mix in smaller peices.