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[jecole360]

I know I'm probably beating a dead horse here but I'm still not sure what is going on with my stove. I thought for awhile I had a leak somewhere because my water level keeps dropping but now I think it's just from getting too hot and boiling it off. I've seen it get too hot a few times and steam out the top to where I've had to pull wood out of there to get it to drop the temp and that's just when I've been home to see it so who knows what happens during the day when I'm not home. I only fill it once a day, at about 6pm and right now I am burning ash, maple and oak. It seems like if the outside temp it above 50/60 degrees that's when it gets hot and it can get up to 212 degrees. I replaced my door rope before I fired up this season and my firebox was cleaned out and draft door looks like it is sealed good. It just seems like when its "idling" there's still an aweful lot of smoke coming out of the chimney so there's got to be air coming in somewhere. I've done about all I can think and read other people's posts and still can't figure this out! Losing a lot of water and really frustrated!!

[slimjim]

Are you using a tall stack?

[jecole360]

I have my temp at the boiler set at 165. It was at the factory setting of 185 I think but I lowered it to try to keep it from overheating but that hasn't seemed to help. I do have a tall stack on it which I think is the 2 4ft sections with a rain cap on top. The door rope is brand new but I'm afraid it might be ruined from creosote running down the bottom and soaking into the bottom of the rope. The door seals very tight though so I didn't think that would be a problem. Would the tall stack and rain cap be part of the problem and why?

[TLuckoski]

Two 4 foot sections of pipe are the norm for a central boiler that's what it comes with from the factory . I would take the  chimney cap off don't need it anyway plus they clog up with creosote. Next I would check and double check my rope seal any air going in the burn chamber is going to cause you problems. Next check the draft door aka flapper to make sure you are getting a tight seal use a flashlight at night when its closed to see if any light is coming thru could be slightly warped. Hope this helps they are very simple machines you should be able to narrow it down.

[slimjim]

Very good advice on the door gasket and flapper, I would also load less wood more often to control the burn in these warm months at least, as far as a tall chimney, 2 sections should not be a problem at all, some folks up here in the northeast are forced by DEP to add 20-30 or even40 feet of stack to thier conventional units to appease thier neighbors, this creates an incredible draft that wastes a lot of heat up the stack and can pull fresh air into the burn chamber even in the off mode, that is where I was going with the tall stack.

[Ryan L]

i am on my second year with my 5036 and had the same issue you are having, last year my stove did this 3 times, here is what i did... i kept the door rope clean of crusties and the door face(on the stove), still was having the issue, so i would take off the luvered cover over the dampner door and scrape the crusties off of the damper door were it contacts the main door and also scrape the maiting surface and it seemed to work, but i did this weekly. I was consurned that this was a problem(i shouldnt have to do this so often) My stove was only doing this on warm and most often windy days, so i kept in contact with my dealer about this issue, they were very helpful with giving me suggestions and i tried all of them. I did notice the door rope had a groove in it were it met the stove face and you could tell the door was not square to the stove, one side of the rope in one corner was touching the stove on the edge of the rope, so in the off season i took the door of and took it to the dealer and they replaced the intire door(They agreed the hinge pin holes were not drilled square to the door) also the damper door was not sitting good on the door(very small gap on the top side) so basically my stove was "burning" all the time and it created the "temp creep" issue. I have been burning with the new door( the new one is nice and square to the stove face, rope seal meets stove in middle all around) since middle of sept. this year and have had much better luck, i do still check the crusties on damper door and keep it clean to insure a good seal, but it is a diffrent stove now! hope you get yours figured out..

[woodywoodchucker]

Also the latch bolt can leak where it goes through the door frame.