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Author Topic: explain this  (Read 6538 times)

caper

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explain this
« on: January 21, 2016, 09:34:55 AM »

first of all the heatmaster has been working great all season without a burp,until, go out this am and the furnace is at 203,first time this ever occurred, i run into garage ,hit theromstate, turn on inside house as well, mmmm takes awhile to get her down, then inside temps on gauge plummet fast,ok that may be normal,however, I then shut all thermostats down and things are just off, I check pump at furnace,working fine,inside as well,gotta keep an eye on her now for the day to see if everything is normal,,,just when I was thinking this would be a maintenance free season.....ill keep yas posted .....
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tinfoilhat2020

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Re: explain this
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2016, 10:09:58 AM »

keep us updated, how did the temp on the boiler rise that high??? did u check the flapper unit on the fan?
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mlappin

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Re: explain this
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2016, 10:19:44 AM »

I’m betting on mechanical first, stuck flapper is the first to check of course.

Not as likely but could be a bad controller, get it running and check it a few times to make sure it’s shutting off at your high set point.

Usually I’ve found on our grain dryers that the new style electronic controllers I install they either work or don’t, the old mechanicals were a whole different kettle of fish and could be aggravating to no end.
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CountryBoyJohn

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Re: explain this
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2016, 10:47:00 AM »

Yes, check the flapper in the back.  That's the only reason I've ever had a boil over.  Ash and particles get "pinched" in the hinge and cause it to hang up.  Grab the lever at the bottom of the soilenoid and give it a few good clangs and make sure it's sealing up well.  That's the first place I go if I'm overheating. 

When the season is over, make sure you clean out the bottom of that air channel very well.  I show how to do this in my cleaning video.  If it happens again, I'd clean it out now.
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AirForcePOL

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Re: explain this
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2016, 10:59:44 AM »

Have you checked your door seals? Make sure you pull the ash drawer out and check the entire seal also. 
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caper

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Re: explain this
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2016, 12:36:43 PM »

thanks guys for the suggestions, just got home, temp is 187, lil high still,i have it set for 182 12 degree diff......putting groceries away then heading out to check things out,hate that dam rear  door,no hinges, loose insulation and tin foil backing, wish I had the newer model...
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tinfoilhat2020

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Re: explain this
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2016, 02:07:02 PM »

If it just crap down.... 187 is normal....my shuts down at 185 and will rise 3-7° more depending on how hot the burn cycle was
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caper

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Re: explain this
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2016, 03:52:44 PM »

its at 200 again, checked the flapper, door seal etc...im starting to get worried now, cant have this temp all night..






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CountryBoyJohn

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Re: explain this
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2016, 04:11:36 PM »

Is your ash door and bypass door tight? Have you tightened your door latch since you fired up this season? It's about this time in the season I give mg door latch a tightening.
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shepherd boy

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Re: explain this
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2016, 04:20:16 PM »

Things to check:  If it is a late model 5000 the flap is on a spring. The flap can get a cinder or ash under the flap and hold it open a little. flip the flapper up and down and you should hear metal to metal and maybe knock out anything that may have gotten under the flap.  Older units have the flap coming down on top of the fan. Check the flex duct going to the bottom for leak.
  Stuck solenoid, sometimes they can stick and just the vibration of opening the back door can cause them to shut. hard to notice.
  Ash pan closed. When taking out ashes lift up front of ash pan so it scrapes up any ash on floor under the pan. Ash under the pan will cause it not to seal properly.
  You have an air leak and since it was all at once it's probably not a main door seal.
  If it's a ranco stat make sure it's on H1 not C1. If the blower is not on and it's still rising it's not the stat.
 
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 06:16:12 PM by shepherd boy »
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RSI

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Re: explain this
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2016, 05:55:01 PM »

Until you find the problem, I would drop the temp setting about 10 degrees or so. That way it is less likely to boil over.
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mlappin

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Re: explain this
« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2016, 09:45:54 PM »

Until you find the problem, I would drop the temp setting about 10 degrees or so. That way it is less likely to boil over.

 :post:
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willieG

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Re: explain this
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2016, 05:03:20 PM »

haven't been following this too closely but I can tell you that over the life of my old Honeywell aquastat I have been turning it down almost every year. right now I have it set to 145 off and on at 10 less, my actual water temps on the gauge in the house is 170 hot and 158 low
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caper

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Re: explain this
« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2016, 05:18:26 PM »

thanks guys so much,all great info, especially when you start scratching your head, it is still high,but not always so its definitely something small I hope, one other thing, which didn't happen in the past ,when I open the door the flame immediately starts and gets big really fast from a smoldering one, this tells me a air leak right or am I just grasping now...
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RSI

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Re: explain this
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2016, 05:31:18 PM »

Yes, that sounds like an air leak.
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