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16
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 23, 2017, 11:06:03 AM »
Anybody else want to take a stab at this?
17
Portage & Main / Re: To gas or not to gas? That is the question.....
« on: August 17, 2017, 06:41:55 AM »
I was looking at the EGR 250 pretty hard and asked P&M if it had passed EPA testing and they said that it had just that the EPA website was not up to date.
They were nice enough to send me a Certificate of Conformity.
They were nice enough to send me a Certificate of Conformity.
18
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Diagrams of primary/secondary loops
« on: August 16, 2017, 10:47:31 AM »
The pictures are not working on my end? It just shows a little white box where the picture would be.
19
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Diagrams of primary/secondary loops
« on: August 15, 2017, 10:59:44 AM »
Any way you can post the original pictures and diagrams again?
Also the link to comfort calc doesn't seem to work.
Also the link to comfort calc doesn't seem to work.
20
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 14, 2017, 05:10:58 AM »
Good point. I didn't think about that.
I am thinking about the main part being kept around 55-60 and the other section around 70.
I am thinking about the main part being kept around 55-60 and the other section around 70.
21
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 14, 2017, 04:43:02 AM »
The 2 zones for the house is 1 for the basement and 1 for the attached garage. And the 2 zones for the barn is the main area and then I have a block room in one corner that is sealed up pretty tight with a dehumidifier in it. I store some items in there that I want to keep secure and not rust. I don't necessarily have to have 2 zones there but thought it would be nice if possible.
22
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 13, 2017, 11:42:52 PM »
Thanks naturally aspirated. How would I go about having 2 zones in the concrete ran off 1 pump? That would be my preference. I added the tertiary loop in to get by with 1 outdoor reset to lower the water temp.
Are the parallel loops needed? I was thinking that route so the water temp would be the same for all loops and not be low at the last loop like it would be with a serial loop. Is that even a real concern?
What is considered "close" when spacing the t's? Planning on using 1" copper.
I have no real world knowledge about this. Just what I can find on the Ole interweb.
Are the parallel loops needed? I was thinking that route so the water temp would be the same for all loops and not be low at the last loop like it would be with a serial loop. Is that even a real concern?
What is considered "close" when spacing the t's? Planning on using 1" copper.
I have no real world knowledge about this. Just what I can find on the Ole interweb.
23
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 11, 2017, 05:50:10 PM »
The OWB placement is where it worked out the best with building placement any yard layout.
The boiler will be a Portage and main 34-44.
The house is currently heated with a heat pump and there is no heat in the barn.
Not sure on current usage.
Location is southern indiana.
The boiler will be a Portage and main 34-44.
The house is currently heated with a heat pump and there is no heat in the barn.
Not sure on current usage.
Location is southern indiana.
24
Advanced Plumbing / Re: Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 11, 2017, 01:28:51 PM »
The small square boxes with the triangle in the middle are my crude representation of the circulating pumps with the triangle pointing in the direction of flow.
Is that what you are asking for Slim?
Is that what you are asking for Slim?
25
Advanced Plumbing / Primary/Secondary system design
« on: August 11, 2017, 12:06:18 PM »
This is my attempt at designing a system for my house and pole barn running off the same OWB.
I have never done anything like this before so if you have any input of where I am going wrong or have an idea on how to make it better please let me know your thoughts.
I have looked at numerous webpages/videos trying to figure this out.
The Idronics catalogs and Coffee with Callefi videos had allot of good info.
https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/technical-magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hEFzCCxz9s&list=PLuuV0ELkYb5VE0I4evUZ30b5U78CRlRdg
The house will have about 250' or Logstor pipe to it and the barn has about 100'.
My thoughts are to have a Primary/Secondary loop system. With one outdoor reset that controls the water temp for both the garage and basement floor heat in the house. And another outdoor reset for the barn to control both concrete zones.
In the house I would like to heat the following.
2 water to air heat exchangers. Mounted in the existing ductwork. One is on the first floor and the other is on the second.
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Attached garage concrete floor. 3 - 300 ft loops
Basement concrete floor. 6 - 300 ft loops.
Pole barn has the following.
Unit heater hanging from ceiling
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Small baseboard radiator heater for small bathroom.
Main zone concrete: 8 - 300 ft loops
Secondary zone 1 - 300 ft loop.
Once I get a system design nailed down I need to figure out where to put all the valves, flanges,
drain ports, etc.....
Does anyone know of a free software that would help with system design and part specification?
Thanks for your time.
I have never done anything like this before so if you have any input of where I am going wrong or have an idea on how to make it better please let me know your thoughts.
I have looked at numerous webpages/videos trying to figure this out.
The Idronics catalogs and Coffee with Callefi videos had allot of good info.
https://www.caleffi.com/usa/en-us/technical-magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hEFzCCxz9s&list=PLuuV0ELkYb5VE0I4evUZ30b5U78CRlRdg
The house will have about 250' or Logstor pipe to it and the barn has about 100'.
My thoughts are to have a Primary/Secondary loop system. With one outdoor reset that controls the water temp for both the garage and basement floor heat in the house. And another outdoor reset for the barn to control both concrete zones.
In the house I would like to heat the following.
2 water to air heat exchangers. Mounted in the existing ductwork. One is on the first floor and the other is on the second.
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Attached garage concrete floor. 3 - 300 ft loops
Basement concrete floor. 6 - 300 ft loops.
Pole barn has the following.
Unit heater hanging from ceiling
Domestic hot water with a Flat plat heat exchanger. Anti scald valve on top.
Small baseboard radiator heater for small bathroom.
Main zone concrete: 8 - 300 ft loops
Secondary zone 1 - 300 ft loop.
Once I get a system design nailed down I need to figure out where to put all the valves, flanges,
drain ports, etc.....
Does anyone know of a free software that would help with system design and part specification?
Thanks for your time.
26
Portage & Main / Re: To gas or not to gas? That is the question.....
« on: July 23, 2017, 07:41:30 PM »
I have 2800 Sq ft house with radiant tubes in basement floor. 6 300 ft loops
With 2 air handlers with heat exchangers in house.
Attached Garage has 3 -300 ft tubes.
Pole barn is 64 x 44 with 9-300 ft loops in concrete.
Also want to do hot water.
Will the EGR 250 be big enough?
With 2 air handlers with heat exchangers in house.
Attached Garage has 3 -300 ft tubes.
Pole barn is 64 x 44 with 9-300 ft loops in concrete.
Also want to do hot water.
Will the EGR 250 be big enough?
27
Portage & Main / Re: To gas or not to gas? That is the question.....
« on: July 23, 2017, 05:26:13 PM »
Just to make sure I understand and in compliance.
The bl 34-44 with shaker grate option is legal for residential use in indiana?
The bl 34-44 with shaker grate option is legal for residential use in indiana?
28
Portage & Main / To gas or not to gas? That is the question.....
« on: July 23, 2017, 01:20:52 PM »
I have been following this forum for a few months now trying to make a decision on a OWB.
I have been talking to a few people and some are steering me away from the EGR 250 and more towards the BL 34-44 with shaker grates because of a few reasons.
1-They do not like the Gasification models because they are prone to problems and finicky.
Is that a valid point or is it just a lack of experience?
2-They do not think it will be big enough for my application.
If that's true how are people in colder climates than I am in using these successfully?
Any advice on those 2 points? Am I missing anything else?
I like the idea of cutting less wood but do not want to waste my money either.
Side question:
Can you burn coal in a EGR 250 or BL 34-44?
If so what kind of mixture of wood to coal?
I have been talking to a few people and some are steering me away from the EGR 250 and more towards the BL 34-44 with shaker grates because of a few reasons.
1-They do not like the Gasification models because they are prone to problems and finicky.
Is that a valid point or is it just a lack of experience?
2-They do not think it will be big enough for my application.
If that's true how are people in colder climates than I am in using these successfully?
Any advice on those 2 points? Am I missing anything else?
I like the idea of cutting less wood but do not want to waste my money either.
Side question:
Can you burn coal in a EGR 250 or BL 34-44?
If so what kind of mixture of wood to coal?
29
For Sale / Re: Brand New Portage and Main BL-3444 with shaker grate for sale
« on: July 05, 2017, 07:50:55 AM »
Is this still for sale? I replied to the email listed in the post but no response.
30
Portage & Main / Re: EGR 250 side clearances
« on: July 01, 2017, 06:07:06 PM »
Metal roof. Planning on making it a single slope. 3 sides of the building closed with one open side. Just to keep the wood dry for the most part.
So I do not need to be taller than the highest point of the roof for the draft to work correctly?
So I do not need to be taller than the highest point of the roof for the draft to work correctly?