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Author Topic: New to Polar G2  (Read 9406 times)

slimjim

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2017, 03:43:12 AM »

Best of luck Dave, I think you will really like the stove, lots of makes sense stuff integrated into the build!
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2017, 04:50:37 PM »

we used to have to cut some of the dip tubes if coming into the tank on the cold water side in order to get thermal siphoning but simply using the pressure relief valve opening solves that completely.

If I tap into the pressure relief valve what happens at the cold water valve on the hot water tank ? Would I tee into both ?
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RSI

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2017, 05:42:27 PM »

You leave it alone. Just go from drain to relief valve with the sidearm.
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2017, 06:21:14 PM »

So I would cap off and not use the cold water in on the hot water tank ?
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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2017, 06:31:07 PM »

Cold water goes into the tank as normal. The sidearm is completely independent from the normal water connections.
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RSI

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2017, 06:32:51 PM »

If you want to heat the water before it goes into the tank then use a 20 or 30 plate heat exchanger instead. For that you would just put in series with the cold line and no need to tee into the other fittings.
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2017, 08:34:33 AM »

I think what is confusing me is the diagrams from the Polar web site. They show the water from the sidearm going into the cold water supply for the hot water tank. But, they also show the dip tube being cut, which I understand we don't do anymore.
So, which would be better, the sidearm or the plate exchanger ?
See this diagram from the Polar web site:
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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2017, 08:45:26 AM »

Unless you have really hard water, I would use a plate but either should work.
If you have really low dhw use a sidearm might be better and if you have really high use a flat plate would be better. You do require higher boiler flow rate for a plate because it heats the water much faster than a sidearm.
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2017, 09:03:31 AM »

Okay thanks..
As I mentioned, I am very new to this. Still trying to figure out what my flow rate and such will be.
Looking around Polar site to find flow rates for the G2 but can't seem to find anything.
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slimjim

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2017, 09:56:50 AM »

The G2  flow rate is within its own primary loop, what you will need to be concerned with Dave is the flow throughout your heat loop, the primary loop on the boiler guarantees enough flow that condensation, hot or cold spots do not happen within the boiler, the golden rule is that for each gallon of water flow with a desired temp differential of 20 degrees you will be able to extract 10,000 BTUs, with the Polar boiler we are not at all concerned about you return temps to the boiler but if you don't have enough flow throughout your loop inside then the last heat load on the loop may very well suffer from low water temps.
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aarmga

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2017, 10:18:07 AM »

If you want to heat the water before it goes into the tank then use a 20 or 30 plate heat exchanger instead. For that you would just put in series with the cold line and no need to tee into the other fittings.

Since I have 2 girls in the house with me I have found this is the best way to go.  My water heater kicks in if for whatever reason there isn't enough water used to keep it warm. The more the hot water is used the less the water heater has to run.  Sounds odd I know.  I ditched my sidearm because it wouldnt keep up with our hot water demands and went to a 30 plate.
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slimjim

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2017, 10:19:30 AM »

I can understand needing more but why not at that point use both?
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mlappin

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2017, 10:51:43 AM »

I can understand needing more but why not at that point use both?

Thats what I did on mine when I redid all the plumbing in the basement, mainly out of curiosity. With all the gauges I installed I can see exactly how hard each pulls. Sidearms pull a lot easier, but can’t supply the volume, flat plates can supply an endless volume of hot water but pull harder than the HX in your furnace. This is of course dependent on your cold water entering the flat plat, one nice thing about a well, it doesn’t get super cold in the winter unlike somebody who is hooked to town water thats supplied by a tower.
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #28 on: April 15, 2017, 12:42:15 PM »

Thanks everyone

Maybe the plate is the best to use..it just goes in the cold water supply for the hot water tank...
Won't be using a lot of hot water, Except when my kids and their families come for visits.

So, when calculating the loop size in the house, I include the distance from the boiler to the house and back as well as all the piping inside right ? And for the garage loop, from the furnace to the garage then to the manifold and all the pipe going in the floor ?
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DaveB

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Re: New to Polar G2
« Reply #29 on: April 15, 2017, 02:22:27 PM »

Does this look like I am on the right track...or not ?

Assume 80' from boiler to house and 20' inside.

Target drop in temputature = 30 degrees Farinhiet

GPM = BTU / Delta T / 500
GPM = 160000 / 30 / 500
GPM = 10.67

1” PEX Velocity of 4.22 ftps @ 11 gpm
1” House loop head = 100' x 2 = 200   
   Loss per 100' = 2.41
   Ft of 1” = 200'
   Add 10% for fittings and valves = 2.41 x 2 + 10% = 5.3 psi pipe loss
   5.3 x 2.31 = 12.24 ft head

Pump Requirements = 10.67 GPM @ 12.24 Head Ft
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